and just to think ......

[RAYRAY]

i thought that a sump was actually turned into a filter system, so that you wouldnt have a filter hanging off the main tank, I think i aswered my question thought, i will have to add the bubble traps and actually build the sump out of my 10 gallon tank. with an inlet chamber the has filter media in it, then the water would go throught the bubble traps into the sump area, which would hold the heater, and skimmer, the into the return chamber where the return pump would pump the water back in to the tank. So i will have to get some supplies and try to build the sump. i dont know what I'm going to do yet ????? Im changing the top canope of the tank soon so i might have room to add a hang on skimmer. the frame that is on there now will be removed and the lamps are getting raised up about 4 more inches, my brother is customizing a bracket to raise the lamps off the water more and will do away with the frame around the top of the tank. we will see what happens , but i will definately be getting a skimmer.

[bobby]

That is a sump but alot of people dont use filter media in it because if its not regularly cleaned it will add nitrates to your system. I would just add the three bubble traps to remove bubbles and thats about it, unless you want a small fuge in there then you would need more baffles. The one I built for my 10 gal just had two baffles in it one were the intake came in and one before the pump to stop ant debri from getting to the pump.

[bobby]

Oh and if your wanting some kind of debri removal I would just add a media sock to the end of the overflow that goes into the sump.

[RAYRAY]

[reeffreak]

You need to move the ball valve to the return line...closer to the pump end than to the DT.I think its better to have one more baffle so you can place a prefilter/bubble trap and move the skimmer to the drain end(right side on your pix).

Here is something I'm thinking...notice the skimmer before the two baffles and the return on the other end......http://www.lifereef.com/lg_ber3.jpg

[bobby]

Like reeffreak said I would also add a bubble trap the three baffle one.

Reeffreak if you put the valve on the pump line I thought it could make the pump wear out faster.

[reeffreak]

IME,water pumps are made to handle the pressure..I know the Mag-drives do...the instructions recommend a ball valve to control to flow back to the main tank.

I'm a little confuse Bobby....do you recommend the valve on the overflow end?

[bobby]

Thats the way I have always seen it. to match the flow with the pump.
I have read that a valve on the pump end will put pressure on the pump and cause a premature life span, but I have never use a HOB overflow just a drilled one so I may very well be wrong. I have heard to many stories of overflowing due to not having the flow set up right and suction lose I'd just drill or not set one up, but in rays case he would be much better off with one due to space.

[jhnrb]

I agree with Reeffreak. nothing to add. put the valve on the pumps supply side and let the return gravity feed back unrestricted. no chance for a overflow in the tank that way. good luck.

[reeffreak]

Bobby ,I think you have it backwards.All the sumps that I've seen has them on the return end and not the drain end.As long as the water returning to the main tank isn't higher than the overflows max gph there shouldn't be a flooding issue.