More MH vs T5

[reeffreak]

Those Luminarc reflectors are one of the best on the market.So,I would go three 250w MH and skip the 400w altogether.Thats really all the light thats needed BUT if you want the corals to really ''pop'' and be able to do a dust/dawn effect,I highly recommend some kind of actinic supplement preferably T5,of course.Since the T5 are really just supplements than any retro will do.No need to seem the $$$ for Icecaps for actinics.The Tek retro will work fine and cost less than half.

Here's a link to both the Tek retro and Icecap retro.With that price difference you could go 4-48'' T5 retro for the price of a Icecap 2-48''.

Icecap 48" 2 Lamp T5 Retro Kit: Premium Aquatics

Sunlight Tek Light T5 RETRO - 48" x 2 bulb: Premium Aquatics

[RyanG]

Would it be ok to use industrial electronic ballasts for the MH I can get ballasts rated the same as the icecaps from Grainger Industrial Suply cheaper due to my step fathers discount, they are good for outdoor use same as the icecaps and are basically the same thing. These are the specs on the icecaps
http://www.icecapinc.com/250mh%20spec.pdf

These are what Im looking at thats not the price I get them for also the shipping will be free. My pricing is 119 and some change. The only real difference I see is size.
Grainger Industrial Supply: Ballast,F Can,1 Lamps 3V565

Also does anyone have the make and model of some GOOD T5 actinics? either what kelvin spectrum they are or a GE or equivalent bulb number?

[fatman]

Oops! Stick with 10000K over lower K value HQI bulbs for best coral growth, health and vitality. If you want that pop and crisp look add actic supplementation.

[bobby]

Yes it is ok to use indutrial ballast's, but that is only if it is multitap or straight 110V. I do believe most indutrial ballast's are 410V or somehting like that, because it cost less to run. Just make sure you can run it off your regular 110 outlet before you buy one.


Opps I just read your asking about electronic ballast. On electronic I don't know for sure as I have never had one, but I would think it would go the same. The way I understand it is that electronic are not as good as magnetic. From what everyone tells me electronic does not really lower your power bill enough to even notice, and they were down bulbs alot faster.

[reeffreak]

Sorry,I can't answer any of your questions on MH ballasts.

ATI Blue Plus(blue bulb with a mix of 420nm,460nm,7100k)
UV Super Actinic(true actinic 03/420nm)

Those two actinics are two of the best according to the T5 guru on RC.

[daugherty]

you should be able to use them. call grainger and ask them.

[RyanG]

Bobby the ballasts from Grainger are Multi-tap, all of the new icecap ballasts are electronic and they hold heat down most importantly, the supposedly dont need to have heat sinks and heat sink compound.

I was also looking at T5 VHO ballasts does anyone know how many feet of T5 VHO bulb industrial ballasts will power? Also I am still looking for a bulb number so that I can cross reference it with Grainger, they carry bulbs for every lighting situation possible but I need a bulb number to find out which is correct.

[bobby]

Right the ballast it self is lower in heat, but I don't think the bulb does. The ballast will be remote so you wont have to worrie about it. It's all up to you though, but after I found out that electronic ones wear the bulbs out faster and are twice the price I went with magnetic. JMO though

[fatman]

Originally Posted by bobby

Yes it is ok to use indutrial ballast's, but that is only if it is multitap or straight 110V. I do believe most indutrial ballast's are 410V or somehting like that, because it cost less to run. Just make sure you can run it off your regular 110 outlet before you buy one.


Opps I just read your asking about electronic ballast. On electronic I don't know for sure as I have never had one, but I would think it would go the same. The way I understand it is that electronic are not as good as magnetic. From what everyone tells me electronic does not really lower your power bill enough to even notice, and they were down bulbs alot faster.

Your backwards on the wear aspect of the bulbs. Bulbs last longer with electronic ballsts, although typically not a lot as is the case with electronic ballasts used with flourescent bulbs, these get significantly more useful life when run on electronic ballasts. The difference in running costs is not great because a magnetic ballast also uses less power than the bulb rating after the bulb lights up. Both ballasts use higher wattages than the bulbs rated wattage to ignite the bulbs. I would gestimate a savings of only about 5 to 7 percent electricity with electronic ballasts. Thats about $1.70 to $2.37 per month for three 250 watt halides run 10 hours per day. Three phase power lighting is not the standard even in industrial lighting so even the industrial ballasts should be readily available in 120 V or 240 V. Three phase power is only more efficient with motors not lighting or radiant applications. Has to do with the efficiency of how far the increased numbers of magnets around an electric motors rotor has to push or pull to spin the rotor. Three phase has three times the magnets as a single phase.

[ccCapt]

I don't know if Lumenarc's where only mentioned or if those are what you are getting. When I met Sanjay to trade some frags with him, I asked him about the lighting for my 125. He told me if I am using Lumenarc's, I would only need 2 250w MH's. I would just have to be careful not to place high light demanding corals near the ends of the tank. I wish I met him before I bought the 3 parallel reflectors and 3rd 175 ballast. But then again, Lumenarc's are about $120 each.

Also, check out Welcome to BallastWise.com. You can get a 250w electronic MH ballast for $80. I bought an electronic VHO ballast that runs 2 165W 6' bulbs for $50 from them. They shipped it the day after I ordered it.