Need Help: New 29g Reef Tank Equipment

Hi All,

I need some input from you veterans regarding a 29 gallon reef tank I
am thinking about setting up. I have done a good bit of research and
I think I have it down pretty well but I have never setup a salt tank
before. I have done fresh water for years but never salt. I plan on
ultimately having 4-5 fish at an average full grown length of about 3
inches each, some corals, a couple shrimp and maybe a sea star or two.
It's doubtful I will get into anenomes, tube worms, clams/scallops,
or urchins but I guess nothing can be ruled out at this point.

Below is my current wish list. I am trying to do this right the first
time but I am on a budget too. Do you guys see any holes or know
of any components that might work better for my setup? Is the
canister filter really necessary with all the rock I am going to be
adding? I am assuming it would be nice to have a canister filter for
water circulation and chem media. I thought about a wet/dry sump with
a skimmer built into it but figured that would be a bit of an
overkill/headache for this size of a tank. Do you think a power head
for added circulation would be necessary?

Components:

All-Glass 29-Gallon Black-Seal Aquarium
All-Glass 30" Black-Trim Versa-Top
CustomSeaLife PowerCompact/Moon-Lite 30.5" 2x65 CF Lighting Sys
Hagen Fluval MSF 204 Canister Filter
Red Sea Prizm Hang on Protein Skimmer
Ebo Jäger TS Heater (150 watt)
Deep Six Hydrometer

Media/Rock/Etc:

30lbs Fiji Live Rock
30lbs Carib-Sea Aragonite Substrate
Instant Ocean Salt

Any comments and/or suggestions would be wonderfull! Thanks! Ryan

Hi Ryan,

I'm sure you've been doing some reading, so here's one more thing I put together
for people wanting to start keeping saltwater tanks:

http://www.melevsreef.com/overview.htm

I've had a 29g for over 5 years now, and a good skimmer is vital. I'd suggest
the Remora for you, or an Urchin if you decide to go with a sump setup.

http://www.melevsreef.com/what_sump.html

You chose a good heater, and your lighting should be very good. I'm not a fan
of canister filters, because you have to clean them weekly and that is kinda
messy. Better to have more LR in your tank.

You will definitely need power heads in your tank. At one point I had 4 in my
29g to get good flow. MaxiJet 1200's are nice reliable powerheads. A closed
loop is a good way to keep them out of your tank, and stil provide flow:

http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com...losedloop.html

Marc



Ryan wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> I need some input from you veterans regarding a 29 gallon reef tank I
> am thinking about setting up. I have done a good bit of research and
> I think I have it down pretty well but I have never setup a salt tank
> before. I have done fresh water for years but never salt. I plan on
> ultimately having 4-5 fish at an average full grown length of about 3
> inches each, some corals, a couple shrimp and maybe a sea star or two.
> It's doubtful I will get into anenomes, tube worms, clams/scallops,
> or urchins but I guess nothing can be ruled out at this point.
>
> Below is my current wish list. I am trying to do this right the first
> time but I am on a budget too. Do you guys see any holes or know
> of any components that might work better for my setup? Is the
> canister filter really necessary with all the rock I am going to be
> adding? I am assuming it would be nice to have a canister filter for
> water circulation and chem media. I thought about a wet/dry sump with
> a skimmer built into it but figured that would be a bit of an
> overkill/headache for this size of a tank. Do you think a power head
> for added circulation would be necessary?
>
> Components:
>
> All-Glass 29-Gallon Black-Seal Aquarium
> All-Glass 30" Black-Trim Versa-Top
> CustomSeaLife PowerCompact/Moon-Lite 30.5" 2x65 CF Lighting Sys
> Hagen Fluval MSF 204 Canister Filter
> Red Sea Prizm Hang on Protein Skimmer
> Ebo Jäger TS Heater (150 watt)
> Deep Six Hydrometer
>
> Media/Rock/Etc:
>
> 30lbs Fiji Live Rock
> 30lbs Carib-Sea Aragonite Substrate
> Instant Ocean Salt
>
> Any comments and/or suggestions would be wonderfull! Thanks! Ryan

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

Marc gave some really good advice. I have a 29 that is doing great and
every thing in it thrives, I will list what I use for filtration and
lighting and it works great for me. hope it helps.

lighting consists of 4x65w PC's 3 are actinic and only one is 10KK daylight.
I run them on a 6 on/off so I get two photo periods daily.

for filtration I use 50 lbs LR in tank and about 15lbs in my sump/fuge
(gives the pep shrimp a place to call home). in the tank I have a DSB that
has 90 lbs of aragonite sand (like I said its a DEEP-SB) and in the 30
gallon sump/fuge I have another 120 lbs of aragonite sand. (the tank has
course sand and the fuge has suger fine)

in the fuge I grow prolifira macro algae as well as red glaceria (which is
not only a great nutrient absorber but tangs love it)

circulation consists of the return from the sump which is around 800 gph and
in the tank I have a 235 gph sweeper power head. I also use a HOB filter
with no media for circulation as well as a place to add carbon when need by
and I also use it as a place to add the B-Ionic I add daily to the tank. I
also add phyto plankton to the HOB because it mixes it with the tank water
and distributes it in the tank at an good rate rather then all at once.

I don't use a heater in the tank at all, the temp in my home is kept at 70
and the tank keeps a constant 82 and doesn't fluctuate even during the
lighting period. I don't need a heater in any of my tanks (I have 13 by the
way) except one and its a 100 gallon fresh water, which doesn't hold temp
like the salts do.

for the skimmer its an 18" Aqua-Clear Aquatics that I replaced the Rio 600
with a maxi jett 1200 and it does a great job.

iv kept several leathers, shrooms, zoo's, lps's and a select few sps's as
well as a derasa clam in the tank and they all thrived with this lighting
setup. I currently have a sebae anemone in the tank which has excellent
coloration but I honestly think I'm on the very limit of enough/not enough
light for him/her but poor little Nemo is sooooooooooo happy with it.

tube worms and scallops don't require lighting for their nutritional needs
and I have a few of them in the tank as well. the pod population is at a
plague point and the mandarin can't keep up with it. coralline algae is the
best I have ever had in any tank, it will cover the front glass about 25% in
a weeks time with 1/16" spots if not scraped regularly.

hth
kc

"Dragon Slayer" <koi_man(nospam)@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<bm81qo$6ffj$>...
> Marc gave some really good advice. I have a 29 that is doing great and
> every thing in it thrives, I will list what I use for filtration and
> lighting and it works great for me. hope it helps.
>
> lighting consists of 4x65w PC's 3 are actinic and only one is 10KK daylight.
> I run them on a 6 on/off so I get two photo periods daily.
>
> for filtration I use 50 lbs LR in tank and about 15lbs in my sump/fuge
> (gives the pep shrimp a place to call home). in the tank I have a DSB that
> has 90 lbs of aragonite sand (like I said its a DEEP-SB) and in the 30
> gallon sump/fuge I have another 120 lbs of aragonite sand. (the tank has
> course sand and the fuge has suger fine)
>
> in the fuge I grow prolifira macro algae as well as red glaceria (which is
> not only a great nutrient absorber but tangs love it)
>
> circulation consists of the return from the sump which is around 800 gph and
> in the tank I have a 235 gph sweeper power head. I also use a HOB filter
> with no media for circulation as well as a place to add carbon when need by
> and I also use it as a place to add the B-Ionic I add daily to the tank. I
> also add phyto plankton to the HOB because it mixes it with the tank water
> and distributes it in the tank at an good rate rather then all at once.
>
> I don't use a heater in the tank at all, the temp in my home is kept at 70
> and the tank keeps a constant 82 and doesn't fluctuate even during the
> lighting period. I don't need a heater in any of my tanks (I have 13 by the
> way) except one and its a 100 gallon fresh water, which doesn't hold temp
> like the salts do.
>
> for the skimmer its an 18" Aqua-Clear Aquatics that I replaced the Rio 600
> with a maxi jett 1200 and it does a great job.
>
> iv kept several leathers, shrooms, zoo's, lps's and a select few sps's as
> well as a derasa clam in the tank and they all thrived with this lighting
> setup. I currently have a sebae anemone in the tank which has excellent
> coloration but I honestly think I'm on the very limit of enough/not enough
> light for him/her but poor little Nemo is sooooooooooo happy with it.
>
> tube worms and scallops don't require lighting for their nutritional needs
> and I have a few of them in the tank as well. the pod population is at a
> plague point and the mandarin can't keep up with it. coralline algae is the
> best I have ever had in any tank, it will cover the front glass about 25% in
> a weeks time with 1/16" spots if not scraped regularly.
>
> hth
> kc

Thanks guys for all your help! This is turning into a $2000 project
so I think I am going to need to save my pennies a little bit longer.
Below is my revised list. I am leaning toward a small mud sump
instead of the canister filter and I upgraded/added a few other items,
including replacing the prizm skimmer with an aquaC urchin. I may add
a second light kit down the line if I get into a situation where I
need super intense light.

Primary Hardware

All-Glass 29-Gallon Black-Seal Glass Aquarium
All-Glass 30" Black-Trim Versa-Top Glass Top
CustomSeaLife PowerCompact/Moon-Lite 30.5" 2x65 CF
Ebo Jäger TS Heater (150 watt)
Amiracle Mudd Filter w/ Supreme Mag-Drive 5
AquaC Urchin In-Sump Skimmer /w Maxi Jet 1200
Whipser Power Filter 40 (for charcoal/bio media & food/medication
disbursement)
Zoo Med Power Sweep 214 Powerhead /w Pre-Filter

Water Purification

Kent Marine Hi-S Maxxima R/O Unit - 35gpd

Live Rock/Substrate/Additives

60lbs Fuji Live Rock
60lbs Carib-Sea Aragonite Substrate
12lbs Kent Marine BioSediment
Instant Ocean Salt
Kent Marine Marine Starter Kit
Kent Marine Reef Starter Kit
Kent Marine OSMO Prep Marine - R/O Water Conditioner

How does it look now? Thanks again, Ryan

> I am leaning toward a small mud sump
> instead of the canister filter

dont lean just dont get a canister

> and I upgraded/added a few other items,
> including replacing the prizm skimmer with an aquaC urchin.

> I may add a second light kit down the line if I get
> into a situation where I need super intense light.
later

>
> Primary Hardware
>
> All-Glass 29-Gallon Black-Seal Glass Aquarium
there is a 37 that can be had for not much more

> All-Glass 30" Black-Trim Versa-Top Glass Top
> CustomSeaLife PowerCompact/Moon-Lite 30.5" 2x65 CF
> Ebo Jäger TS Heater (150 watt)

> Amiracle Mudd Filter w/ Supreme Mag-Drive 5
toss that

> AquaC Urchin In-Sump Skimmer /w Maxi Jet 1200

> Whipser Power Filter 40 (for charcoal/bio media & food/medication
> disbursement)
and that, reef tanks dont need these items.

> Zoo Med Power Sweep 214 Powerhead /w Pre-Filter
you can get cheaper more reliable.

> Water Purification
> Kent Marine Hi-S Maxxima R/O Unit - 35gpd
>
> Live Rock/Substrate/Additives
>
> 60lbs Fuji Live Rock
shop around buy in bulk or order online

> 60lbs Carib-Sea Aragonite Substrate
you can often find cheaper sand thatll do the same thing southdown and alternatives

> 12lbs Kent Marine BioSediment
skip it LR is enough

> Instant Ocean Salt

> Kent Marine Marine Starter Kit
> Kent Marine Reef Starter Kit
skip both -- you wont need it

> Kent Marine OSMO Prep Marine - R/O Water Conditioner
skip it you dont want it

>
> How does it look now? Thanks again, Ryan


--
Richard Reynolds

Hi Ryan,

Read below....

Ryan wrote:

> All-Glass 29-Gallon Black-Seal Glass Aquarium
> All-Glass 30" Black-Trim Versa-Top Glass Top
> CustomSeaLife PowerCompact/Moon-Lite 30.5" 2x65 CF
> Ebo Jäger TS Heater (150 watt)
> Amiracle Mudd Filter w/ Supreme Mag-Drive 5

Miracle Mudd is very expensive, and doesn't provide the success it promises, *in my experience*. Better to
just use some aragonite sand, and seed it with some live sand from another aquarium.

> AquaC Urchin In-Sump Skimmer /w Maxi Jet 1200
> Whipser Power Filter 40 (for charcoal/bio media & food/medication
> disbursement)

You will almost NEVER medicate a tank, because most will kill invertebrates. You also don't need to run
carbon, if your LR and LS are in good shape. I don't run carbon on either of my tanks, and I don't change
water as often as most. Just an FYI.

> Zoo Med Power Sweep 214 Powerhead /w Pre-Filter

These tend to sweep for a while, then get stuck in one position forever. Just use MaxiJets instead, as they
are relatively cheap and very reliable.

> Water Purification
>
> Kent Marine Hi-S Maxxima R/O Unit - 35gpd

I'm not sure what you'll pay for this, but the 100gpd 5-stage RO/DI I sell is $149 and will make you water
much more quickly. When you need some new water, waiting on an RO unit is the pits.Plus you'll have clean
drinking water as well.

http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/tank/ro_di.html

> Live Rock/Substrate/Additives
>
> 60lbs Fuji Live Rock
> 60lbs Carib-Sea Aragonite Substrate
> 12lbs Kent Marine BioSediment
>

Just get one or two cups (literally) of LS from your LFS's refugium or display tank.

> Instant Ocean Salt
> Kent Marine Marine Starter Kit
> Kent Marine Reef Starter Kit

You won't need either of these "starter kits"

> Kent Marine OSMO Prep Marine - R/O Water Conditioner

You don't need any type of additive with RO/DI water, as it is pure. You can't get more pure than pure,
right?

Marc


--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

Marc Levenson <> wrote in message news:<>...
> Hi Ryan,
>
> Read below....
>
> Ryan wrote:
>
> > All-Glass 29-Gallon Black-Seal Glass Aquarium
> > All-Glass 30" Black-Trim Versa-Top Glass Top
> > CustomSeaLife PowerCompact/Moon-Lite 30.5" 2x65 CF
> > Ebo Jäger TS Heater (150 watt)
> > Amiracle Mudd Filter w/ Supreme Mag-Drive 5
>
> Miracle Mudd is very expensive, and doesn't provide the success it promises, *in my experience*. Better to
> just use some aragonite sand, and seed it with some live sand from another aquarium.
>
> > AquaC Urchin In-Sump Skimmer /w Maxi Jet 1200
> > Whipser Power Filter 40 (for charcoal/bio media & food/medication
> > disbursement)
>
> You will almost NEVER medicate a tank, because most will kill invertebrates. You also don't need to run
> carbon, if your LR and LS are in good shape. I don't run carbon on either of my tanks, and I don't change
> water as often as most. Just an FYI.
>
> > Zoo Med Power Sweep 214 Powerhead /w Pre-Filter
>
> These tend to sweep for a while, then get stuck in one position forever. Just use MaxiJets instead, as they
> are relatively cheap and very reliable.
>
> > Water Purification
> >
> > Kent Marine Hi-S Maxxima R/O Unit - 35gpd
>
> I'm not sure what you'll pay for this, but the 100gpd 5-stage RO/DI I sell is $149 and will make you water
> much more quickly. When you need some new water, waiting on an RO unit is the pits.Plus you'll have clean
> drinking water as well.
>
> http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/tank/ro_di.html
>
> > Live Rock/Substrate/Additives
> >
> > 60lbs Fuji Live Rock
> > 60lbs Carib-Sea Aragonite Substrate
> > 12lbs Kent Marine BioSediment
> >
>
> Just get one or two cups (literally) of LS from your LFS's refugium or display tank.
>
> > Instant Ocean Salt
> > Kent Marine Marine Starter Kit
> > Kent Marine Reef Starter Kit
>
> You won't need either of these "starter kits"
>
> > Kent Marine OSMO Prep Marine - R/O Water Conditioner
>
> You don't need any type of additive with RO/DI water, as it is pure. You can't get more pure than pure,
> right?
>
> Marc

You guys rock! Your suggestions will save me a lot of money and a lot
of time and I really appreciate it! So should I have a refugium only
sump or a wet/dry refugium combo sump?

Thanks again, Ryan

Go to my site and check out the sumps. You want a sump & refugium. You won't need a wet/dry setup for a reef
tank.

Marc


Ryan wrote:

> You guys rock! Your suggestions will save me a lot of money and a lot
> of time and I really appreciate it! So should I have a refugium only
> sump or a wet/dry refugium combo sump?
>
> Thanks again, Ryan

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com