|
|||||||
Damn Ick...Reef Talk General reef aquarium talk that has no other specific forum. |
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Rate Thread | Display Modes |
|
#11
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: Damn Ick...
Damseluver is right on!
![]() Ich is so easy to control. Buy a new fish then quarantine it. Watch it, make sure you get it eating the same food you feed the tank and if you see a problem....treat it. I qt any new fish for a min of 2 weeks to make sure they are eating and I don't see any problems. If any treatments are needed, it gets done before they are put in the main. A little patience in adding new fish to the display goes a long way. Current Aquarium(s) Description: 125 reef, mostly SPS Experience in Saltwater & Reef Aquarium Hobby: close to 20 years |
| LivingReefs.com - Reef Aquarium Forum |
|
#12
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: Damn Ick...
my lfs qt every fish they get they will not sell it for 4 weeks after they get it in. every tank they have has a uv on it. i have never had ick in any of my tanks. i will not buy a fish that is going to be sold in the first couple weeks of them receving it.
__________________
"Knowledge is Power" James Daugherty
Current Aquarium(s) Description: 75 gal Experience in Saltwater & Reef Aquarium Hobby: 9 years Other Intrests: fishing,hunting,computers |
|
#13
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: Damn Ick...
Although Damsluver's info is correct, not everything will go by the book and the 17 days is not going to mean the same for all tanks.
I also disagree about the cleaner shrimps. Sometimes they might have no affect and sometimes they do a great job. In my tank, the fire shrimp gives my tang a daily cleaning and has removed ich from his body on many occasions. So its not correct to say that cleaner shrimps have no affect because they do alot of the times. Ich is always present in our tanks. The 6 week life cycle doesnt really mean much, ich will come right back if the fish are stressed. If the fish is eating, the chances of recovery is very high and there is no need to put the fish thru more stress by removing it from the DT. In my personal opinion, i think fish that are not eating and show other signs of stress should be medicated. Just spots on the fish is not enough reason to remove him if all other signs are good (eating, acting healthy, etc.). Current Aquarium(s) Description: 80 Gal. Experience in Saltwater & Reef Aquarium Hobby: 2 years Other Intrests: Drums, sports, camping, astronomy and computers. |
|
#14
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: Damn Ick...
Quote:
Please, show me one study proving otherwise. Current Aquarium(s) Description: 125 reef, mostly SPS Experience in Saltwater & Reef Aquarium Hobby: close to 20 years |
|
#15
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: Damn Ick...
yes ich is introduced to the tank by a sick fish. it does not live in our tanks all the time. if it did we would all keep having outbreaks non stop. ich will come back if the cysts are not liked by letting the tank sit for awhile. as ich can only host to fish.
__________________
"Knowledge is Power" James Daugherty
Current Aquarium(s) Description: 75 gal Experience in Saltwater & Reef Aquarium Hobby: 9 years Other Intrests: fishing,hunting,computers |
|
#16
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: Damn Ick...
Quote:
Weaker fish, stressed fish, etc. are more prone to ich. You can have ich in your tank but have ich free fish if the fish are strong enough and not stressed. Most of the time the fish fights it off on his own. I myself am someone who advocates quarantining each new addition. I quarantine my new fish for in copper for 2 weeks. I did this with my CB and my tang. They still got ich! So im just saying, it doesnt always go by the book. They are not robots. Current Aquarium(s) Description: 80 Gal. Experience in Saltwater & Reef Aquarium Hobby: 2 years Other Intrests: Drums, sports, camping, astronomy and computers. Last edited by cthegame; April 2nd, 2008 at 09:54 PM. |
|
#17
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: Damn Ick...
I'm glad you advocate qt, but if it didn't work, you did something wrong. Which copper product did you use? Was it chelated or non-chelated? Did you test your copper levels as you were treating? Which test kit did you use? Some test kits only read chelated copper and some non-chelated. If you don't get the correct test kit for the copper you used, you won't get accurate readings. As with anything else that gets dosed into your tank, always test for whatever it is your dosing. Copper is no exception when medicating.
Current Aquarium(s) Description: 125 reef, mostly SPS Experience in Saltwater & Reef Aquarium Hobby: close to 20 years |
|
#18
|
|||
|
|||
|
Re: Damn Ick...
It is true that the parasite can exist at non lethal levels in tanks with healthy well adjusted fish. It is also true however that when done properly the parasite can be completely eradicated from the system.
If the parasite is present the introduction of new specimens will be difficult. The stress from the move or aggression from existing tank mates will usually push the new fish over the edge. Once the new fish is highly susceptible to the parasite its population will increase significantly putting even established fish in jeopardy. Current Aquarium(s) Description: 120 reef Experience in Saltwater & Reef Aquarium Hobby: 20 years off and on |
|
#19
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: Damn Ick...
![]() Shameless post count bump. Like it matters...................... Current Aquarium(s) Description: 30g tall reef, HOB CPR refugium, 61lbs LR, 60lbs LS, 144W T5 lighting. Experience in Saltwater & Reef Aquarium Hobby: 1.5 yrs Other Intrests: Radio Control airplanes Last edited by Rcpilot; May 2nd, 2008 at 01:44 AM. |















Linear Mode
