JB's Reef Tank

[jb61264]

OK..so I decided to post to the Tank Showcase thread as I officially started by journey back into building a reef tank last night when I placed an order for a prefilter box from Jeff at LifeReef last night (actually spoke with him on the phone...really nice guy)...it ships on Tuesday so I'll probably have it by next weekend.

I'll be setting up a 40 gallon breeder tank (I love the breeder style tanks for reef aquariums because of the surface area footprint)...buying the tank and a stand from Petco for $219.

I have a wet/dry filter from a tank I had about about 13 years ago...its a typical three chamber wet/dry. Flow from tank into chamber one fills up and spills over to the second chamber that is packed with Bioballs that are raised about two inches from the bottom that fills the sump of the third chamber where my return pump will be placed.

I have an Amiracle (don't think they are in business anymore) protein skimmer that will hang on to the side of my wet/dry filter box. I think I'm going to try and build another skimmer similar to one I made 13 years ago on my first reef. It is an "in the water" skimmer that worked really well and would actually sit inside the first chamber...so technically I'll have two skimmers running eventually.

I'm planning to buy a Mag Drive 700 submersible for return flow from the sump to the tank...I'll also need to consider a pump to sit in the tank for additional flow but I'm not sure which to get yet.

I haven't made a decision on lighting yet but I saw a brand at a LFS that had these "stand-like" extensions that sit on the rim of the aquarium...looked very nice and clean...I'll run two of them (total of 4 lights) and then get some acrylic cut to cover the rest of the top that isn't below the lights.

I'll post some pictures this weekend...planning to buy the tank and stand tonight or tomorrow

[bobby]

Sounds pretty good a 40 breeder is a awsome tank. I would do a sump or fuge instead of a wetdry. If not cleaned enough the bio balls will cause excess nitrates to your tank. You aslo do not want to cover the top the of the tank you want the open air to oxygenate the water, however, you could cover it eggcrate or light diffuser. That way it keeps the fish in and lets the air in also. What kind of lights are they? If they're pc's, t-5's, or halides you wont need four.

[jb61264]

Originally Posted by bobby

Sounds pretty good a 40 breeder is a awsome tank. I would do a sump or fuge instead of a wetdry. If not cleaned enough the bio balls will cause excess nitrates to your tank. You aslo do not want to cover the top the of the tank you want the open air to oxygenate the water, however, you could cover it eggcrate or light diffuser. That way it keeps the fish in and lets the air in also. What kind of lights are they? If they're pc's, t-5's, or halides you wont need four.

That's the first I've heard about having to clean BioBalls...do you have any other information on that? I used these with my first reef tank and didn't ever clean them.

When you say "sump"...I sorta have a sump with the wet/dry...unless we're talking about two different things. My wet/dry will sit below the tank in the stand

What are "pc's" and "t-5's"....gosh, I gotta get updated with the reef lingo

[Bifferwine]

Bioballs can become nitrate factories if they are not cleaned regularly, like weekly. That's why I don't ever recommend bioballs. If you have enough live rock (1 to 2 lbs per gallon), then that serves as your main source of biological filtration and there's no need for bioballs.

[bobby]

You should clean half at a time, like half one week and the other half the other week and so on. PC's are power comacts, T-5's are a higher output florecent light. T-5's and halides are your best choice, with PC's in the back, but all will keep coral just depends on the light. Before you buy the light post it on here and we can help you to get the best light from the choices you have. You probably will save a ton on the light if you buy it online also.

[bobby]

A wet dry uses filter pads or bioballs which can cause alot of nitrates were as a sump is a place to put the skimmer and other equipment, and a fuge is used usually for deeps sand beds, macro algae, mud beds, ect.....

[reeffreak]

Can I give you some recommendations?[of course,you don't have to listen to me]

Run the wet/dry without the bioballs and convert a chamber to a refugium.If there's no room then throw some chaeto in the sump and suspend a cheap light over it.Bioballs will just lead to nitrate problems which only fuels nuisance algae.Wet/drys or trickle filters were the ''in'' thing 15 years ago.They are still effective for fish only tanks where live rock is a minimum.Today its all about live rock for biological filtration and sump/fuge for nitrate reduction.

Look at the Hydor Koralias for circulation in your system.They are a propellar pump that gives a nice wide gentle flow unlike the narrow streams powerheads produce.They also have magnet mounts so no more suction cups failing.Two model 1 or 2 will work,depending on your flow needs.Dr. Fosters and Smith online store has them for around $35-40.

Also,go with T5-HO light fixture.They put out tons of light per watt compared to other florescent bulbs.T5 is the way to measure the size of the bulb.T5 bulbs are 5/8'' in diameter,thats were the 5 comes in.They also run much cooler than other lighting like PC(power compacts)bulbs and MH(metal halides).I would get one fixture with four bulbs and not two fixtures with two bulbs.

Good luck.

[jb61264]

Originally Posted by Bifferwine

Bioballs can become nitrate factories if they are not cleaned regularly, like weekly. That's why I don't ever recommend bioballs. If you have enough live rock (1 to 2 lbs per gallon), then that serves as your main source of biological filtration and there's no need for bioballs.

Is this a newer trend or discovery in the reef keeping world?...when I had my reef tank setup years ago, I had the wet/dry filter working with BioBalls and I never cleaned them...I guess I understood that the purpose of the BioBalls was to provide surface area for the good bacteria to adhere too.

What should I use the wet/dry filter that I have for then?

[jb61264]

Originally Posted by reeffreak

Can I give you some recommendations?[of course,you don't have to listen to me]

Run the wet/dry without the bioballs and convert a chamber to a refugium.If there's no room then throw some chaeto in the sump and suspend a cheap light over it.Bioballs will just lead to nitrate problems which only fuels nuisance algae.Wet/drys or trickle filters were the ''in'' thing 15 years ago.They are still effective for fish only tanks where live rock is a minimum.Today its all about live rock for biological filtration and sump/fuge for nitrate reduction.

Look at the Hydor Koralias for circulation in your system.They are a propellar pump that gives a nice wide gentle flow unlike the narrow streams powerheads produce.They also have magnet mounts so no more suction cups failing.Two model 1 or 2 will work,depending on your flow needs.Dr. Fosters and Smith online store has them for around $35-40.

Also,go with T5-HO light fixture.They put out tons of light per watt compared to other florescent bulbs.T5 is the way to measure the size of the bulb.T5 bulbs are 5/8'' in diameter,thats were the 5 comes in.They also run much cooler than other lighting like PC(power compacts)bulbs and MH(metal halides).I would get one fixture with four bulbs and not two fixtures with two bulbs.

Good luck.

Of course you can give me advice...I'm obviously out of the loop on the current best practices in reef keeping

I'm going to post a diagram of my wet/dry and maybe you can recommend the best way to use it based on how it is designed?

[yote]

Its hard to beat a breeder tank when it comes to a reef tank.
You've some great advice on your wet/dry.So all I gotta say is,,

When do we get pics?