Doc's Shark Tank

[Doc]

Originally Posted by fatman

Doc please do this small experiment. Take a card board box and remove the top and bottom. Set the box on its side. Now push on one top edge. It will fold over until it is flat. That is why they put bottoms in tank stands. To brace against what is called racking. The same goes for in the other direction. You should really put some plywood panels on the back sides of the tank. I am sure if there are any carpenters using this site they can confirm what I am saying or suggesting. Even metal workers usually use gussets at corners and intersections on heavy load members to provide better bracing against racking and twisting and to increase the strength of the joint. Ask a carpenter at least before you assume every thing is OK and load up the stand. Or ask Yote, I am sure you probably trust Yotes opinion. I do not know if you get earth quakes where you are, but in Alaska or California that stand would quite likely fold like a deck of cards in an earth quake when fuuly loaded. You definately need a stand that wont sway with a load that large on top of it. With the stand as it presently is, it will sway.

I added a 2x4 across the top of the tank to stabilize it from that kind of movement. I am thinking of adding another one on the bottom of the stand as well, opposite where the one on top is. Do you think more will be needed? I could add some plywood on the back, but my current stand (which is what I am kind of using as a model for this one) has a completely open back. not sure what to do.

-Doc

[fatman]

Originally Posted by Doc

I added a 2x4 across the top of the tank to stabilize it from that kind of movement. I am thinking of adding another one on the bottom of the stand as well, opposite where the one on top is. Do you think more will be needed? I could add some plywood on the back, but my current stand (which is what I am kind of using as a model for this one) has a completely open back. not sure what to do.

-Doc

The old style carpentry method would be to use diagonal bracing on the bottom and back. How ever thay would have to be cut in on the bottom, meaning a notch as thick and as wide as your board would have to be cut and the brace placed inside of the notch and secured. The brace would run from one front corner to the opposite back corner of the bottom perimiter. It would be easier to just apply a layer of plywood to the outside of the bottom of the stand. That would only increase the height of the stand by the thickness of the plywood used and would not decrease the tank stands inner dimensions. For the back, a cut in brace would have to run top to bottom from one side to the other. Simply using a six inch or so wide piece on each side from the outter corner to the first stud would work nearly as well as long as it was well fastened. Such as a nail or screw every two inchs or less. Not having something to prevent diagonal racking or swaying in the stand you used as a pattern can be considered a design flaw. Design flaws are sadly common and often do not become seen by many until there is catastrophic failure. Like bridges falling down for no apparent reason and many bridges falling down during California earth quakes. Nature has a way of testing human made apparatuses and structures. Lack of diagonal bracing is easily remedied though. Just some plywood has kept houses from folding and twisting since the 1950's when plywood became a common building material. Bridges still use diagonal bracing. Those braces are used for the vaery same reason. A box to keep from folding flat needs diagonal bracing.

Any added boards run at right angles or in line with existing framing members will provide no form of diagonal bracing.

[VSpeck]

Hey no offense but i would deffinately ad more bracing. I only say that because i am a carpenter and single 2x4s tend to twist and bend. I would double some up and add plywood to the top and maybe the bottom. try to brace anywhere you have room for.

I like to overbuild my stands because wood is cheaper than a new tank.my stand is 2x6's doubled up on all braces. You should be able to see how they are doubled up in this pic. one in the interior of the stand and cripplers inbetween the top and bottom plate.


jmho its alot of weight for single 2x4's and i would hate to see a nice tank on the floor over $75 worth of wood and 1 more day of working. also it might hold it for a while but in this hobby you want the stand to hold up for a long time.

[Doc]

thanks for the carpentry tips. I will get a brace for the back and shore up the bottom as well. I want to make sure the stand will hold up for the long haul. I bought more wood than I needed anyway and it will only take a few minutes to add the extra strength. Great advice guys.

-Doc

[VSpeck]

no problem i like to help where i can. sounds like your tank is going to be a sight to see. i just dont want to have to see it on the floor. keep us up to date on the build. any questions dont hwsitate to pm me.

[Doc]

*3 days*

I went to the lfs and my tank is there, just sitting, staring at me, begging me to pick it up. I am really excited. I also was staring at my shark, all 18 inches of him. gliding gracefully along the bottom of the tank. incredible. I am SO excited!!!

One complaint. return pumps are too damn expensive. I am not a fan!!!

-Doc

[dustin_P74]

i guess your just gonna have to suck it up for an awesome tank doc

[RyanG]

What are you getting for a return? Internal/External brand! You are being very vague in all of you giddiness!

[LionFish]

Originally Posted by Doc

*3 days*

I went to the lfs and my tank is there, just sitting, staring at me, begging me to pick it up. I am really excited. I also was staring at my shark, all 18 inches of him. gliding gracefully along the bottom of the tank. incredible. I am SO excited!!!

One complaint. return pumps are too damn expensive. I am not a fan!!!

-Doc

Doc may I suggest Lows! for the pump
I found a 2600 GPH pond pump for 70$

[fatman]

Originally Posted by LionFish

Doc may I suggest Lows! for the pump
I found a 2600 GPH pond pump for 70$

Most pond pumps have steel parts in abundance in contact with the water being pumped. Impellers, seal springs, bearings and shafts. The Sequence Reef Flo Dart and Snapper pumps are about as cheap as you can go and still be safe with the parts involved and the electrical consumption is low. The cheapest source I have found is http://www.glass-holes.com their prices include free shipping and they run $10 to $20 cheaper than any where else I have seen.