When considering setting up a reef aquarium, it is important to get a starting list of items that will be needed to properly set up the aquarium. There are many items that are needed for a tank to be properly set up and some that are not needed, but are nice to have for the tank. We will start off discussing items that are a must have and then discuss some items that can be used to make the tank function better or create a more stable environment for the fish.
Must have items:
1) Tank and stand
One of the first decisions needed to make is what size tank you are going to set up. With the better understanding of proper husbandry of a reef tank and the advancement in technology almost any size tank can be a reef tank. People are now keeping small tanks under 20 gallons, referred to as nano-reefs to aquariums in excess of 1,000 gallons. There are two main factors to consider when choosing a tank: 1) Space available to put the tank and 2) Your budget.
It is usually recommended to go with the largest tank that will fit both in the space allotted and the budget set for the tank. Although larger tanks are usually more self sustaining, one should not overspend their budget on a larger tank and then sacrifice on “cheaper†equipment. The components are needed to properly set up a reef tank are just as important, in not more important than the tank itself.
In addition to the tank, a strong stable stand or base will be needed to support the tank. A gallon of freshwater weighs a little over eight pounds and saltwater will weight slightly more. A fifty gallon tank will weight in excess of 400 pounds in just the weight of the water. An unstable stand or base could cause the tank to crack or break causing an obvious mess.
2) Lighting system
A majority of corals that are kept in a reef tank are photosynthetic and require simulated sunlight to survive. Although we will not go into depth how this occurs in this article, it is important to know that corals contain algae called zooxanthellae in their tissue. The zooxanthellae photosynthesis and feed the corals. If the proper light is not given to the corals, they will not thrive in our tanks and will eventually perish. There are two main types of lights available that hobbyists will use to light their tanks. The first is fluorescent lights and the second is metal halide lights.
Within the fluorescent lighting, there are three types of lighting most commonly used: Very High Output (VHO); Power compact (PC); and T5 High Output. VHO lighting has been a staple for reef tanks for many years. VHO bulbs look exactly like a normal fluorescent bulb but run at a higher wattage (and require a special ballast). For example a standard four foot fluorescent bulb will run at 40 watts, but a four foot VHO bulb will run at 110 watts. VHO bulbs will come in a variety of lengths from 24†to 72†and in a variety of color spectrums. By using multiple bulbs over a tank, the aquarist is able to provide a high enough wattage of light for the corals to thrive.
PC bulbs differ from standard fluorescent bulbs in that they hook into a single endcap instead of two endcaps like normal fluorescent bulbs. Also instead of a single tube, a PC bulb will have two bulbs that will run parallel to each other coming out of the single socket. The two bulbs will be connected opposite the endcaps by a small glass tube. One of the unique features of these bulbs is that manufactures are actually able to have each tube the same spectrum or different spectrums. When one tube is one color and the other tube is a different color, this is commonly called a 50/50 bulb. PC bulbs will come in a variety of lengths and wattages from about 6 inches and 9 watts up to 48 inches and 130 watts. Like the VHO bulbs, using a combination of PC bulbs will allow the aquarist to provide a high enough wattage for keeping corals alive and thriving.
T5 bulbs are one of the newest lines of lighting that are being on a reef tank. These bulbs are similar to VHO bulbs except they are much thinner bulbs. VHO bulbs are classified as T12 bulbs. The T in both of these is referring to the shape of the lamp, T stands fro tubular and the number (5 and 12) indicates the diameter in eights of an inch. The T12 bulbs are 1 ½†or 38 mm and the T5 bulbs are 5/8†or 16mm in diameter. The smaller diameter bulb allows for a higher output from a smaller bulb. At this time there are not as many varieties of bulb color temperatures available, but this is changing as more and more hobbyists start using T5 over their reef tanks.
The staple for lighting a reef tank though is still using metal halide (MH) lighting. Unlike fluorescent lights that spread light over the full length of the tube, metal halide bulbs emit their light from a single point. This allows for a more intense light that can penetrate deeper into the water.
There are two types of metal halide bulbs available to hobbyists, single ended and double ended bulbs. As the name suggests single ended bulbs have a single male threaded end that will screw in to a socket, similar to a standard light bulb. With in the single ended bulbs there are two different sizes available, medium base (or standard household light bulb size) and mogul base (larger in diameter than the medium base). The single ended bulbs are available in a wide variety of color temperatures (Kelvin ratings) and most commonly come in 150, 175, 250 and 400 watt. Double ended bulbs do not screw into their fittings rather they slide or snap into two endcaps (made of ceramic with metal contacts). Double ended bulbs also come in a wide variety of color temperatures and are available in 70, 150, 250 and 400 watt.
A single metal halide lamp will light an area that is approximately two feet by two feet. A tank that is 24 inches long will require one metal halide lamp and for every additional two feet in tank length another metal halide lamp should be added. When you know the number of bulbs needed, you will also need to know what wattage lamps to go with. A generally rule of thumb for single ended bulbs is for tanks under 18 inches deep use 175 watt lamps, for tanks between 18-24 inches deep use 250 watt lamps and for tanks over 24 inches deep use 400 watt bulbs. For double ended lamps the general rule of thumb is for tanks under 18 inches deep to use either 70 or 150 watt bulbs, for tanks 18-24 inches deep use 150 to 250 watt bulbs and for tanks over 24 inches deep use 250 to 400 watt bulbs. The reason for this is that double ended bulbs will have a higher PAR value (in layman terms, intensity or brightness) when compared watt per watt to single ended lamps.
Another consideration when using MH lamps is the Kelvin rating (color temperature) of the bulb. Metal halide lamps will come in a variety of colors from greenish yellow (low K value around 5500K to 6500K) to a crisp white with a hint of yellow (medium value around 10000K) to a bluish white color (higher value around 20000K). There are a number of different Kelvin rated bulbs available between the 5500K to 20000K ratings to allow the aquarist to find the color they like best for their tank. So what color is best for your tank? This varies from person to person. If you like the look of a crisp white tank, bulbs around the 10,000K range are your best bet. If you like a more blue color in the tank, then a bulb above 14000K is generally your best choice. It should also be mentioned that the Kelvin ratings will have an effect on both the color and the growth of corals. Lower Kelvin rated bulbs will give you quicker growth in your corals, but will not bring out the best color in them. Higher Kelvin rated bulbs will usually give you brighter colored corals, but the growth will be slower.
One last note on metal halide lighting that should be mentioned is that many people will use supplemental lighting in combination to metal halide lights. In addition to the metal halide bulbs, they will add fluorescent actinic lighting to the tank. The first benefit to using the supplemental lighting is that the actinic lighting can help corals and fish look more colorful. Actinic lights will help fluoresce the pigments in the corals and fish almost making them glow in the tank. This is especially true of greens and reds in corals and fish. Another benefit to using supplemental actinic lighting is that is can help wash out the yellow color from lower Kelvin rated bulbs. One last benefit to the actinic lights is that it will allow the aquarist to have dawn to dusk lighting. Dawn to dust lighting is the ramping up in intensity of the lights over the tank. Using timers the aquarist can have the actinic lights come of fist, similar to when the sun first starts to rise in the morning. Then the metal halide lights will turn on along with the actinics simulating midday. Then the metal halide bulbs shut off leaving just the actinics on similar to the sun setting. This will give a dawn to dusk effect for the tank.
So what is the best lighting for your tank? This will depend on the corals you would like to keep. Generally speaking for most soft corals, mushrooms and most LPS corals such as hammer, bubble and brain corals any of the fluorescent lighting options will work excellent. If you are more interested in keeping SPS corals, such as acroporas and montiporas and also keeping clams metal halide lighting would be your best choice.
(CONT)
Must have items:
1) Tank and stand
One of the first decisions needed to make is what size tank you are going to set up. With the better understanding of proper husbandry of a reef tank and the advancement in technology almost any size tank can be a reef tank. People are now keeping small tanks under 20 gallons, referred to as nano-reefs to aquariums in excess of 1,000 gallons. There are two main factors to consider when choosing a tank: 1) Space available to put the tank and 2) Your budget.
It is usually recommended to go with the largest tank that will fit both in the space allotted and the budget set for the tank. Although larger tanks are usually more self sustaining, one should not overspend their budget on a larger tank and then sacrifice on “cheaper†equipment. The components are needed to properly set up a reef tank are just as important, in not more important than the tank itself.
In addition to the tank, a strong stable stand or base will be needed to support the tank. A gallon of freshwater weighs a little over eight pounds and saltwater will weight slightly more. A fifty gallon tank will weight in excess of 400 pounds in just the weight of the water. An unstable stand or base could cause the tank to crack or break causing an obvious mess.
2) Lighting system
A majority of corals that are kept in a reef tank are photosynthetic and require simulated sunlight to survive. Although we will not go into depth how this occurs in this article, it is important to know that corals contain algae called zooxanthellae in their tissue. The zooxanthellae photosynthesis and feed the corals. If the proper light is not given to the corals, they will not thrive in our tanks and will eventually perish. There are two main types of lights available that hobbyists will use to light their tanks. The first is fluorescent lights and the second is metal halide lights.
Within the fluorescent lighting, there are three types of lighting most commonly used: Very High Output (VHO); Power compact (PC); and T5 High Output. VHO lighting has been a staple for reef tanks for many years. VHO bulbs look exactly like a normal fluorescent bulb but run at a higher wattage (and require a special ballast). For example a standard four foot fluorescent bulb will run at 40 watts, but a four foot VHO bulb will run at 110 watts. VHO bulbs will come in a variety of lengths from 24†to 72†and in a variety of color spectrums. By using multiple bulbs over a tank, the aquarist is able to provide a high enough wattage of light for the corals to thrive.
PC bulbs differ from standard fluorescent bulbs in that they hook into a single endcap instead of two endcaps like normal fluorescent bulbs. Also instead of a single tube, a PC bulb will have two bulbs that will run parallel to each other coming out of the single socket. The two bulbs will be connected opposite the endcaps by a small glass tube. One of the unique features of these bulbs is that manufactures are actually able to have each tube the same spectrum or different spectrums. When one tube is one color and the other tube is a different color, this is commonly called a 50/50 bulb. PC bulbs will come in a variety of lengths and wattages from about 6 inches and 9 watts up to 48 inches and 130 watts. Like the VHO bulbs, using a combination of PC bulbs will allow the aquarist to provide a high enough wattage for keeping corals alive and thriving.
T5 bulbs are one of the newest lines of lighting that are being on a reef tank. These bulbs are similar to VHO bulbs except they are much thinner bulbs. VHO bulbs are classified as T12 bulbs. The T in both of these is referring to the shape of the lamp, T stands fro tubular and the number (5 and 12) indicates the diameter in eights of an inch. The T12 bulbs are 1 ½†or 38 mm and the T5 bulbs are 5/8†or 16mm in diameter. The smaller diameter bulb allows for a higher output from a smaller bulb. At this time there are not as many varieties of bulb color temperatures available, but this is changing as more and more hobbyists start using T5 over their reef tanks.
The staple for lighting a reef tank though is still using metal halide (MH) lighting. Unlike fluorescent lights that spread light over the full length of the tube, metal halide bulbs emit their light from a single point. This allows for a more intense light that can penetrate deeper into the water.
There are two types of metal halide bulbs available to hobbyists, single ended and double ended bulbs. As the name suggests single ended bulbs have a single male threaded end that will screw in to a socket, similar to a standard light bulb. With in the single ended bulbs there are two different sizes available, medium base (or standard household light bulb size) and mogul base (larger in diameter than the medium base). The single ended bulbs are available in a wide variety of color temperatures (Kelvin ratings) and most commonly come in 150, 175, 250 and 400 watt. Double ended bulbs do not screw into their fittings rather they slide or snap into two endcaps (made of ceramic with metal contacts). Double ended bulbs also come in a wide variety of color temperatures and are available in 70, 150, 250 and 400 watt.
A single metal halide lamp will light an area that is approximately two feet by two feet. A tank that is 24 inches long will require one metal halide lamp and for every additional two feet in tank length another metal halide lamp should be added. When you know the number of bulbs needed, you will also need to know what wattage lamps to go with. A generally rule of thumb for single ended bulbs is for tanks under 18 inches deep use 175 watt lamps, for tanks between 18-24 inches deep use 250 watt lamps and for tanks over 24 inches deep use 400 watt bulbs. For double ended lamps the general rule of thumb is for tanks under 18 inches deep to use either 70 or 150 watt bulbs, for tanks 18-24 inches deep use 150 to 250 watt bulbs and for tanks over 24 inches deep use 250 to 400 watt bulbs. The reason for this is that double ended bulbs will have a higher PAR value (in layman terms, intensity or brightness) when compared watt per watt to single ended lamps.
Another consideration when using MH lamps is the Kelvin rating (color temperature) of the bulb. Metal halide lamps will come in a variety of colors from greenish yellow (low K value around 5500K to 6500K) to a crisp white with a hint of yellow (medium value around 10000K) to a bluish white color (higher value around 20000K). There are a number of different Kelvin rated bulbs available between the 5500K to 20000K ratings to allow the aquarist to find the color they like best for their tank. So what color is best for your tank? This varies from person to person. If you like the look of a crisp white tank, bulbs around the 10,000K range are your best bet. If you like a more blue color in the tank, then a bulb above 14000K is generally your best choice. It should also be mentioned that the Kelvin ratings will have an effect on both the color and the growth of corals. Lower Kelvin rated bulbs will give you quicker growth in your corals, but will not bring out the best color in them. Higher Kelvin rated bulbs will usually give you brighter colored corals, but the growth will be slower.
One last note on metal halide lighting that should be mentioned is that many people will use supplemental lighting in combination to metal halide lights. In addition to the metal halide bulbs, they will add fluorescent actinic lighting to the tank. The first benefit to using the supplemental lighting is that the actinic lighting can help corals and fish look more colorful. Actinic lights will help fluoresce the pigments in the corals and fish almost making them glow in the tank. This is especially true of greens and reds in corals and fish. Another benefit to using supplemental actinic lighting is that is can help wash out the yellow color from lower Kelvin rated bulbs. One last benefit to the actinic lights is that it will allow the aquarist to have dawn to dusk lighting. Dawn to dust lighting is the ramping up in intensity of the lights over the tank. Using timers the aquarist can have the actinic lights come of fist, similar to when the sun first starts to rise in the morning. Then the metal halide lights will turn on along with the actinics simulating midday. Then the metal halide bulbs shut off leaving just the actinics on similar to the sun setting. This will give a dawn to dusk effect for the tank.
So what is the best lighting for your tank? This will depend on the corals you would like to keep. Generally speaking for most soft corals, mushrooms and most LPS corals such as hammer, bubble and brain corals any of the fluorescent lighting options will work excellent. If you are more interested in keeping SPS corals, such as acroporas and montiporas and also keeping clams metal halide lighting would be your best choice.
(CONT)