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Looks healthy to me. Very cool patterned serpent too BTW!

Tunze 9002 and Hydor Slim Skim are great skimmers to check out too.

You should leave the sand bed alone and get things that sift it, Nass snails, cucumbers, or conch snails.

What is it that you wish to add/edit? One of the mods (Little Fish) was the one updating the DB but, she's been out of the country. If say the best way would be to PM a mod or admin.

They are from the same family but have different scientific or species names. They are basically the same fish, just different coloring and markings.

I've got a hard time believing those PAR results only be a use you're posting higher readings then from 250w MH which penetrate better. A while back CcCapt posted these from his meter. 250w XM 10k 1" below 1060, 12" 520, 24" 340 With that being said, a T5 fixture will never mimic the...

I woul change out the amount of actinic bulbs you have, they don't really have the intensity to be your primary bulb. I would try 3-4 blue plus 1-2 actinic And one purple plus or Fiji purple (this may be the one you were thinking of not pink)

The sump is 'open' and gravity fed from your overflow ... In a closed loop your bulkhead would be plumbed directly to the inlet of your pump and the outlet from your pump would plumb back to the returns in your tank. The pump would physically pull the water out of your tank and then returning...

If that pic is how your tank is set up, then you're not running closed loop. As far as the micro bubbles the only way I can see stopping them is either slowing down the flow in the sump or raising the water level in the return section.

I can't speak to the deflating but, I can tell you that adding it directly to your tank doesn't really do anything for your calcium levels. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/7/chemistry

Every sump I've ever made had the baffles all the same height but, if you want the past one can be cut shorter

Just make sure the height of your baffles falls within the required water level for your skimmer. Otherwise you'll need to make a small stand for it.

Yep pretty much. Any medications sold to fight Ich that say "reef safe" don't really affect the parasite.

If he's eating and acting normal just heave them. It's usually a sign of injury or infection, either way it can heal on its own. There is medication sold specifically for it but, there is no data that proves it actually helps at all.

No corals and inverts need a salinity of 1.024-1.026, it would end up killing them.

Do you have your own test kits? If not, a good test kit should be your next purchase before anymore fish. That way you can recheck your test results. Ammonia should be zero before any fish get added, any ammonia in the water can kill fish and if it does manage to live through it, it will...

I'd be careful of MarcoRocks, a lot of people have complained here about the sand being too fine and creating sand storms easily.

Yup sure can. You're welcome and Merry Christmas!

Also by their head loss chart at 3-4' you're looking at the pump I listed giving you about 335-270gph. That's with straight piping, any elbows or valves will further cut down that flow rate. Even at 335 I don't think you're pushing it for your tank. In my old 28g tank I was running two...

I saw that one but, on their main page for mag-drives here, http://www.marinedepot.com/powerheads_pumps_danner_mag_drive_supreme-ap.html It has this note ...." Note: Mag-Drive pumps are not recommended for external use." So if you were to order that one I'd definitely call and verify with them...