40ga Tall-Phase I

[Ramen Rubber]

Hello, friends!
I am new to this forum, but not forums. I have been lurking for a few months, soaking up builds from start to finish and debating on what I want for my setup. I am still in Phase I-Design and Part hording.

To start off, I found on craigslist a good deal on my tank a 40ga Tall, its 24w,12d, 30-somethingT. It was previously setup with salt, and the guy also had a good deal on a Beamworks LED light. I wasnt real familiar with it, but I picked it up anyways.

I got both for 40 bucks. Not a terrible deal. I should have looked up the specs/price/reviews for the light while I was there, because I probably would have passed on it. Tank is in 7/10 condition, 1 chip in an outside corner, whole thing has been resealed, good black trim pieces. I spent a little time cleaning it after the photo with just water. I'm told that if I wanted to, I could use a water/vinegar mix and it would come sparkling clean.

Now here is my dilema, I am constantly moving, at least once a year. I want to do a good, solid tank setup, but I also want something that will be reasonable to move, and would survive the stress. I am concerned about my tank inhabitants. What would adapt the best to a moved tank? I like corals, but do not want to do a corals only tank. In a perfect world, I would have seahorses, but I am concerned about my knowledge and equipment to keep them successfully. I think this leaves me with more or a learning and growing experience; a tank that can be used to understand water keeping, fish keeping, generally the basics. As we all know, without a watchful eye on water levels or things growing in the tank, you can lose a tank over night. So where does that leave me?

As far as setup, I am still just a little lost. Check out my drawing!

What I want to do is a Beans Style overflow. I am a DIY kinda guy, and when i got my tank as cheap as I did, I'm not afraid to buy a glass bit and drill the holes. I am confident that I can also make and seal the acrylic pieces to form the box on the inside. Below you see what I have visualized for a handmade sump setup. I want to get a 20ga long tank, and do the overflows in (on the left in the picture) the two bubble traps, and in the center is where I get confused. I could put a fuge here, in the center of the sump correct? I would use live sand and an algea like cheato to create natural filtration. I'm just trying to confirm that I understand the general concept. Other than that, on the left with the I could also submerge a Protein Skimmer, and on the far right, I need the return pump. Inside the tank then, I would only need power heads for water movement.

As far as lighting goes, I dont really want to use the BeamWorks as I have read that it doesnt emmit enough light to get good growth. I also have seen real good deals on the cheaper T5HO at around 60 bucks.

So I need more input on how to setup my sump/fuge. Also, where do you dump the return water? into the overflow box or elsewhere in the tank?

At this point, I am most concerned with picking the equipment setup, however, I know you have to pick the right setup for what you plan to keep as well. Any and all input is welcomed at this point. Thanks!

 

[little_fish]

Personally, i would try exchanging the tank for a tank that is longer than tall. That shape is problematic for two reason, most fish swim from side to side, not up and down, and the taller tanks are harder to light for corals.

Ironically, its a perfect shaped tank for seahorses, but speaking from personal experience, seahorses are one of the worst choices for a beginner fish out there. I wouldnt want anyone to go through what I went through with them. Get your feet under you with a standard reef first and then decide if you want to commit to seahorses, because they are one hell of a commitment.

Also, moving tank is a very stressful experience so I would go with a small tank, like 20 gals. Easier to move and deal with.

For the setup itself, you only need one bubble trap. Put the trap right before the return section. I too would put the fuge in the center, but put the skimmer in the area where the water drains into. The return is where you will see the evaporation and a skimmer needs to be in a constant height of water. You will need to be able to hang a light over the fuge, a squiggly CFL bulb will work just fine in one of those cheap can reflectors from home depot. Most people skip the sand in the fuge.

Regarding the live sand, everything your put in your tank will become live. All live means is that it has bacteria living on it that can process the waste in the tank to less toxic compounds. So to save a few bucks for the fun stuff, just buy dry sand and most dry rock. Then just one piece of live rock. You want to end up with 1-2 lbs per gallon. I like to buy dry rock from MarcoRocks Aquarium Products

Lighting is going to be one of your most expensive and important investment in your tank. Dont buy cheap lights, you will end up replacing them later on with better stuff and end up spending more because you bought twice. If you go with a small tank, i would probably go with the marineland reef bright LEDs. Its more up front, but you dont have to replace the bulbs every year. But if you do go with t5 lighting, you want a fixture with at least 4 bulbs and an individual reflector. 6 bulbs is better.

Be sure to check out the articles and stickies in each section, lots of good info there!

 

[Ramen Rubber]

Ironically, its a perfect shaped tank for seahorses...
Also, moving tank is a very stressful experience so I would go with a small tank, like 20 gals. Easier to move and deal with...Be sure to check out the articles and stickies in each section, lots of good info there!

I actually had it in my head to do seahorses. I read through SOOO much, bought the tank knowing the height was a good thing, then having done more reading and reconsidered my moving situation, decided against it.

However, is it really worth while to drill a 20ga tank for a sump and what not? or would it not just be easier to go Hang on back type equipment? I thought I would use about a 20 ga tank for a sump and fuge with the 40, but what size do you use for a sump/fuge with a 20ga? would a 10 be sufficient? could I go as small as a 5?I do happen to have one) I know that does make fitting everything in it a little tight though.

 

[Bifferwine]

I wouldn't drill a 20 gallon. I also wouldn't clutter it up with HOB equipment. For a tank that size, you can easily take care of water quality with regular water changes.

 

[little_fish]

Yes, sorry I meant to mention that. Skip a sump with a small tank like that, which will make you life tons easier when moving.

And I did months and months of research before getting my tank and my seahorses and still was in so over my head, I almost quit. It was a horrible situation, just too much to learn and understand all while trying to care for these extremely picky creatures. They are such a needy fish, its hard to understand their addition attention required before having a reef and knowing what that takes.

Once you get a good year of experience under your belt, then i would go back and re-examine if you want to commit to keeping them. Amazing creatures, I truly loved mine, but I couldnt handle/totally understand what was required to keep them.