75G SW Tank HELP!

cycling is actually a reference to the Nitrogen Cycle. It is the build up of the bacteria population to consume the waste into less poisonous products. Without cycling the tank, the fish are basically swimming around in their own waste. Which is ammonia. Given time, the bacteria population becoumes sufficient to convert this ammonia into nitrites and then into nitrates. That is the nitrogen cycle.

In a new tank, the bacteria cant keep up with the waste produced by a fish so ammonia bulds up and becomes toxic to fish. That is why we cycle our tanks with some fish food or a raw table shrimp. When the food rots, it provides a food source for the bacteria so that when we do add fish, they arent put in any danger from a build up of waste.
 
I will give you this advice also... take all the info you know about fresh water and forget about 90% of it. I was in your shoes about 7 years ago. I kept fresh water all my life, then moved into salt. Didnt understand why things were going so badly. Used those water conditioners just like fresh water, had filters just like fresh water, fish died. Really, other than the tank, it is a vastly different beast to deal with.

Browse around the forum, soak up as much info you can, then ask any question you have. Even if it sounds stupid.

Learn from your mistakes also. We have all been there and will help you through it.
 
Thanks guys, i apperciate it alot. That was an amazing article little_fish very very very and should i say VERY informative. What kinds of fish food is ideal to help cycle a tank? My wife isnt too thrilled about the decomposing shrimp in the aquarium lol. Also how much of the fish food should be added?

Another question for down the road. Being Active duty Army, i may have to move a few times, or i may not you never know. But say i was getting ready for a move, after packing up my equipment and live stock, and my water, would i be able to just throw everything back into the tank when i settle down again? or would it be a likely chance i would have to run another nitrogen cycle?

thanks again.
 
It is very likely that you will have another cycle. If you keep your live rock under water with lots of circulation, the chances are reduced. You can also see if the local fish store (LFS) would be able to hold your fish for you while you cycle. There will most likely be a charge for it since it is taking up resources that they could be using to sell fish.

As for the table shrimp, you wont smell it at all. You also only leave it in there for a few days to let the bacteria start their process. Then you can take it out. As for the fish food, I would say maybe a teaspoon or two to get the cycle going.
 
Okay cool, thanks for clearing that up.

A livestock question for ya, would a Maxima Clam do well in a 75g? and do clams require any special needs?
 
They require really high lighting conditions and pristine water. Other than that, no. But if you can fulfill the lighting and water conditions, you can have a clam in any sized tank.
 
Right now i have 2 Koralia Evo 14's for my 75g, but as im reading on the web, others are saying the 14's are too strong for a 75g, should i swap them for the 1050's instead? or do you think the 14's are fine. thanks
 
I personally think UV sterilizers are a terrible idea, and if you decide to use one, it should be the choice of a long time reefer who understands the total function and use of one. Too often they are used as crutch by inexperienced reefers to cover for the fact their tanks are suffering from massive ich outbreaks because they are overstocked, poorly stocked or have terrible water quality. They also kill all the good stuff in the water, that a filter feeder such as clam should be eating.

Also more flow is better, as long as your sand isnt flying around, you dont have too much flow.

Also, i cant remember if i told you this or not, but clams will do much better in an mature reef tank, so i would wait until your tank is around 6 months old to get a clam.
 
Does it matter what type of distilled water i use to mix my salt with? I've been looking for big jugs of it instead of having to buy 75 1 gallon milk jugs of water sold at the market, to try and save money. Would poland springs be considered distilled water? (They come in 5-10g Jugs) lol probably a stupid question but i just want to make sure. thanks
 
I doubt it. But you can buy those big 5 gal jugs and just refill them. Many lfs sell RO/DI water for cheap, as with some stores. But you should always check the TDS of the water, some places are really bad about changing the membrane on their filters.
 
Just bought myself a TDS meter from my LFS and tommorow i plan on filling up my 10g Jugs of RO water from the same place. .50 per Gallon without Salt 1.00 per gallon with. I plan to go .50 a gallon of RO water, so i can learn myself how to add the salt even though its seems pretty simple, i would like to get the experience. But anyways What should my TDS meter read when i get my water tommorow? thanks!
 
Alrighty! Another step closer, Skimmer is hooked up but left off (Aquac Remora Pro Mag3 Pump + Drain Fitting) Power heads are on (2x koralia evo 14's) , along with the heater (Aqueon pro 250w), tank is filled with RO water from LFS and instant ocean salt. (TDS is 2, salinty is 1.025, and temp is 78 deg. F) 2'' sand bed, with 20 lbs of live rock (So far). My question is, is "dry" rock the same as base rock? Also, is there any method to "Seeding" base rock or dry rock? or will this occur on its own? I would like to mix up the base rock with live rock so i dont break the bank too bad. Since Live rock is 7.99/lb at LFS :(.

I plan to buy a simple CFL lighting system, will this be powerful enough for a long leather polyp Coral? http://www.liveaquaria.com/images/categories/product/p-89136-Long-Polyp-Leather.jpg

I've also begun my Nitrogen cycle, is this okay even though i do not have the required amount of rock yet? I've place the table shrimp in the tank today, how long should i leave it in there? and how often should i check my NH3 NO2- and NO3 lvls?

Thanks again :)
 
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