90G Tank For $50?

[Rcpilot]

Sure, as long as you can deal with my long windedness.:bounce:
I actually think designing new tank circulation systems more fun than picking out the initial stock for the tank.

I'm longwinded too. We should get along great.

I'm an equipment slut. I LOVE hardware and system design.

Here's a jpeg image that can be used as a template for layout. Feel free to save and modify.

 

[fatman]

Awesome info Fatman. Thanks. I'll ask a million questions if you'll answer them.:mrgreen:

I have around 30 times turnover in my current 30g tank.

If I follow that same flow rate (3X), we're talking 2700GPH in the 90g. Thats moving the refugium (30g refugium) at 900gph. With 900gph moving through the fuge, that leaves 1800gph for flow in the tank.

That sounds like a LOT to me. But those numbers are exactly 3 times larger tank than my 30.

Would that Dalton pump/kit do the trick for the closed loop? Why are they sending a 3" holesaw bit for a 2" bulkhead? I realize there is some thickness to the walls of the PVC piping. But it's not schedule 80 PVC were using here. Maybe schedule 40 at the most. Seams like the bulkheads would be sloppy in the holes. Enlighten me, please. I've never installed a bulkhead in a tank.

Basically, I'm a plumbing idiot when it comes to a reef tank.

I could sure use some help planning my plumbing layout. It's 48 x 24. :mrgreen: Hint hint hint...

Three inch may seem large, but it is the size for a 2” bulkhead. They are made of some pretty thick plastic, and that is the standard weight variety. The heavy weight is 3-¼ inch diameter hole for a 2” bulkhead. The saw for that hole is a non-standard size and typically must be special ordered, as it is an infrequently sold item and normally not stocked. I recommend that the bulkhead and the plumbing for feed and return lines be oversized on all plumbing systems, therefore the 2 inch bulk head for a pump with a feed entry of 1 ½ inch. Friction losses are nearly eliminated and the potential for upgrading without drilling new holes is also important. The use of split returns is obvious, as four returns allow for more control than one or two returns. I use 1 inch bulkheads for returns and thread in a reducer bushings to decrease to ¾ inch in which I screw Loc-Line ¾ inch MPT adapters onto which are put a ¾ inch round nozzles. This allows for complete directional control of your return water. The only thing difficult about making glass holes is realizing that it is a slow process as you are actually grinding through the glass and not cutting the glass. I recommend that your buy your hole saws, bulkheads and Loc-line and pump from http://glass-holes.com They will give the best price, their shipping will be free and they are great people. They actually answer all emails, even those on weekends and holidays. They did custom acrylic work for me over this past Christmas/New Years holiday with no increase in costs. The owner and co owner are both engineers that design and build plastic equipment for a medical equipment-manufacturing firm. Yes they have reef tanks of their own. The pump I mentioned by Sequence is the Reeflo Snapper that pumps 25oo gallons per hour and uses only 98 watts. It can be dialed down to a lower out put and actually uses less wattage dialed down. Dialing it down just means restricting its output with a ball valve. I would only move as much water through the sump/refugium as needed to supply a skimmer and some raw water to the refugium. Place the return compartment in the center witht he skimmer in its own compartment at one end and the refugium with its own compartment at the other end.If needed us a bubble baffle in between the skinmmer and return compartment. You could get by easily with just 300 or 400 gph through your refugium/sump. Too muh flow through it will not alow for disapation of bubbles or allow enough contact time for water in refugium. Ryan is also getting ready to do a closed loop circulation sytem so there will be quite a bit of info soon on designing a sytem for a 75 to 120 galon 48 inch long tank. I have lots of 48" 120 gallon tanks with closed loops, and sump/refugiums. I however, am using now three pumps instead of two on all new setups, with two closed loop circulation systems on each tank instead of one, as I believe both in redundancy and I keep primarily SPS so circulate heavily. I also have no wife or children, or mortage controlling my spending on Reef tanks. I now circulate something like 40 to 50 X per hour. (maybe more, oops) Only three tanks so far, the others are at 30 to 35 X per hour.

 

[Rcpilot]

Sooooooooooooo,

Tear down the 30g tank and transfer the rock and corals to the 90?

OR

Keep the 30g intact?

:question:

 

[reeffreak]

Keep the thirty going as a grow out/frag tank.Something I should of kept in mine when I upgraded to the 210.

 

[Bifferwine]

Does the 90 gallon come with a sump? If not, a 30 gallon sump would be great.

 

[fatman]

A 30 gallon is only 1/4 inch narrower than a 90 gallon, tight fit under a commercial stand, but should work with a spacing of a about an 3/4 inch on one end and 11.5 on the other. That is enough room for an external pump , or other stuff with an internal pump in the sump. Or an internal return for sump return and room for an external pump for a closed loop circulation system. A typical 90 gallon tank is externally 48-1/2 inches by 18-1/2 inches. A 120 gallon tank is typically 24-1/2 inches wide. These measurements include the plastic trim/edging.

 

[fatman]

I do not believe this site has the capacity to send attachments with private messages. I have not tried yet to see if I am smart enough to try and submit a photo of drawings for plumbing systems. Let me know just what you mean by a plumbing idiot. Have you ever put together any plumbing with PVC pipe. Or any plumbing with threaded pipe. Do you know what any of these items are: ball valve, Union, bushing, true union ball valve, single unionball vave, slip fitting, FPT pipe fitting, MPT pipe fitting, elbow, street elbow, coupling. Very few people know more than a few of them so do not feel surprised or discouraged. Plumbing is just another one of those things that require some patience with assembly. A lot of dry fitting of parts before the final assembly is best. A full written explanation would however take pages, but that is no problem because it can usually be posted to the articles section for use by others as well as you and therefore does not take up a lot of general forum space which some do not appreciate. Just give me some time leeway to write it and include some drawings for you. If you still decide you want a designed system we will discuss what you want or need first. You must know I am prejudiced towards back wall overflows and closed loop circulation systems. No power heads or overflow towersin my tank designs. I have helped people with "reef ready" tanks, but do not recommend anyone purchase one. They are poorly engineered to old marine tank standards which no longer apply, therefore systems made with "reef ready" tanks require power heads cluttering up the tanks interior. Ugh.

 

[Rcpilot]

I have 2 30g tanks. My current display is a 30g high. 24 long x 12 wide x 24 tall.

I also have a 30g long. Maybe it's a 29g? It measures 30 long x 12 wide x 18 high. It's scratched badly. This would be the sump/refugium for the new 90g.

 

[RyanG]

Keep the 30 up and running and use the 29(thats what it is) for a sump

 

[Rcpilot]

I had always planned to use the 29g for a sump. I knew it was nothing more than a sump the instant I saw it. But it was free.

I just wasn't sure about keeping the 30g nano up and running or transffering it to the 90g.

After reading the responses, I'll keep my 30g nano up and running. It is a nice tank and I wouldn't have a problem using it as a frag tank. Maybe take out 50% of the rocks and put a bunch of egg crate inside it? :bounce: The fish can go in the 90g tank. No reason to have fish in a frag tank. I could put my evil 6-line back in the frag tank if I transfer the clown and goby to the 90g.:D Then I can tear down the 5g tank that is nothing but an eye sore/prison for the wrasse.

I'm such an idiot. Why do I keep an aggressive 6-line all alone in a 5g tank with 2 large rocks and a piece of black PCV pipe? :frustrat:

 

[fatman]

I am a coral person. I would leave the fish to the little tank and make a frag tanlk out of the big tank. This is a secret, really I would probably get rid of all the fish and tie all the tanks to gether into one system and fill two tanks with coral and frags and the third would be a sump/refugium. Dirty, nasty fish. Pooh. Do not tell my secret.