Advice Needed =)

Gazwaz

Reefing newb
Hello All!

I am new to reefing, and need help arranging my LR as well as a few other tweaks to my build.

As you can see in the photos, i have 4 T5 HO 54W. Two bulbs are Pure Actinic Powerchrome from D-D Gisemann(if its spelled that way), one Blue+ bulb from ATI, and the other Powerchrome as well but daylight spectrum.


They are running much cooler temperatures than the "stock" fluorescent T5s. For two hours after lights off, my 18W 2600 lumen LED Moonlight Actinic 453nm peak goes on, and back on two hours before lights on!

As for my filtration, its MarineLand C-220 Canister Filter, I believe its 4-stage including the carbon. Also have an Ecosystem Pro60 bought from Dr. F+S, this has a modifies CPR protein skimmer attached, and holds 10g of refuge volume. I have LR, Chaeto, and some moss ball inside. Currently running light on that 24/7.


I have a good amount of LR, and LS. I have all chemicals and checked KH, PH, Amm, Ni, Na, and Mag. I do water changes once a week with a 15% off the top, and I put freshwater RO/DI from LFS back in. Salinity is good, but it used to be off the charts.


Please advise any teaks or modifications to my setup, or my ideology/routine!
I will keep an open mind to criticism since im just getting started with this.
I set up my tank end of Sept..
 

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The canister is going to have to be cleaned weekly or you could have nitrate issues. I ran a canister for years. It is what I had to do. hob fuge work well I ran one of those for years as well. My only issue with the hob fuge is I could not run it on a reverse light cycle. I like keeping a tank in my bedroom. I have a hard time sleeping with lights on. My latest tank I went a head and did a under sump with a overflow box. That idea had terrified me. Now the easy of my filtration system and the abilities it gives me I kick myself for not doing it before. Its a big step to go with a overflow and I had a few sleepless nights worrying about it but wow such a difference. :twocents:
 
hey bud welcome!

your tank looks really nice.

first. aranging your live rock is all up to you. none of us here know what you want. lol. it is going to be what you want it is your tank not the site tank lol.

second. I agree with Ted. unless your going to clean the canister filter than i would just take it off. it can filter the system but it is more of a pain than anything.

3rd. i would run the moon lights with the moon phases. so when the moon is full than there on when it is a new moon there off. corals need this kinda stuff.

but if it was up to me i would just go compleat LEDs. you can DIY the LEDs for a hell of a lot cheaper than buying the hole unit. for my 150 i would have had to spend 3000+ for good enough LEDs. but i got on Ebay and bought all the stuff to build the LEDs for 654.72 with free shipping. (got lucky lol) they run with less power so they save move and so on.

but al i had said befor buddy it is your tank and it is up to you on what you want and how you want it. i just hope i helped.
 
The canister is going to have to be cleaned weekly or you could have nitrate issues. I ran a canister for years. It is what I had to do. hob fuge work well I ran one of those for years as well. My only issue with the hob fuge is I could not run it on a reverse light cycle. I like keeping a tank in my bedroom. I have a hard time sleeping with lights on. My latest tank I went a head and did a under sump with a overflow box. That idea had terrified me. Now the easy of my filtration system and the abilities it gives me I kick myself for not doing it before. Its a big step to go with a overflow and I had a few sleepless nights worrying about it but wow such a difference. :twocents:

My skimmer is not pulling out much, it did at the beginning, and continues to do so after each feeding.

Honestly my plan is to keep the canister on 24/7 except for feeding time(8mins).

I do not like the idea of opening and ruffling the biological matter around in there!

I do want to do an external tank, maybe a 25g right underneath my main tank.
I do not have the knowledge or tools needed to make an overflow sump.

I would like your help in creating this filtration mechanism, because I am suer that I would need to drill, and wouldnt want to make any mistakes there! Especially since my tank is running/operating.


I am getting some brown algae in the refugium, so i put my emerald crab, and a big hermit in there to grase. Was this a good idea? They were also annoying corals by walking all over them, and my emerald ate some of my xenia, caught red handed the other day!
 
hey bud welcome!

your tank looks really nice.

first. aranging your live rock is all up to you. none of us here know what you want. lol. it is going to be what you want it is your tank not the site tank lol.

second. I agree with Ted. unless your going to clean the canister filter than i would just take it off. it can filter the system but it is more of a pain than anything.

3rd. i would run the moon lights with the moon phases. so when the moon is full than there on when it is a new moon there off. corals need this kinda stuff.

but if it was up to me i would just go compleat LEDs. you can DIY the LEDs for a hell of a lot cheaper than buying the hole unit. for my 150 i would have had to spend 3000+ for good enough LEDs. but i got on Ebay and bought all the stuff to build the LEDs for 654.72 with free shipping. (got lucky lol) they run with less power so they save move and so on.

but al i had said befor buddy it is your tank and it is up to you on what you want and how you want it. i just hope i helped.




Hello! Thanks BOSS!


LEDs are expensive yes, but they are worth it. There are a few companies who exhibited at "Reef-a-Palooza" last week, they let you make your own LED fixture. You choose:

1. Color(nm)
2. Retnal Intensity
3. Size
4. Wattage and depth penetration

Even let u pick if you want it as a stand(canopy), or hang off ceiling like my T5s are.

One catch, its really expensive. I choose to wait on LeDs, since I already have an 18W(1W each LED) 120lumen/W. I run that not according to the moonlight, but each day and night. Instead of switching the T5s off at once, I turn on the LED THEN switch the T5s off. I also do this before lights on in the morning.

I need a timer!
 
Hello! Thanks BOSS!


LEDs are expensive yes, but they are worth it. There are a few companies who exhibited at "Reef-a-Palooza" last week, they let you make your own LED fixture. You choose:

1. Color(nm)
2. Retnal Intensity
3. Size
4. Wattage and depth penetration

Even let u pick if you want it as a stand(canopy), or hang off ceiling like my T5s are.

One catch, its really expensive. I choose to wait on LeDs, since I already have an 18W(1W each LED) 120lumen/W. I run that not according to the moonlight, but each day and night. Instead of switching the T5s off at once, I turn on the LED THEN switch the T5s off. I also do this before lights on in the morning.

I need a timer!

Nice! i didnt have a chance to go to Reef-a-palooza that sounds cool. ya LEDs are really expencive and they are VARY worth it. that is why i DIYed them. i do have a canopy on my tank but i could hang them as well. but your doing really good on your tank.
Just have fun with your tank is what i say.
 
The reason you need to clean a canister so much is you dont want it to have bio in there. For a little while it will be fine but in the long run you will have nitrate issues. Sponges, floss, bio balls are a real issue in saltwater. It wont be right away but you will end up with nitrate issues. I rinse the sponge on my overflow box daily. You would not want to drill a running tank. The best option is a overflow box. I got mine at aquatraders. Was half the cost of a CRP overflow. Same design and has work really well for me. If you need help working it out, I would be more then happy to walk you through it. You can see how I did mine on my build which is attached to my signature. I still have a canister filter in the closet for if or when I need to run a large carbon load.
 
The reason you need to clean a canister so much is you dont want it to have bio in there. For a little while it will be fine but in the long run you will have nitrate issues. Sponges, floss, bio balls are a real issue in saltwater. It wont be right away but you will end up with nitrate issues. I rinse the sponge on my overflow box daily. You would not want to drill a running tank. The best option is a overflow box. I got mine at aquatraders. Was half the cost of a CRP overflow. Same design and has work really well for me. If you need help working it out, I would be more then happy to walk you through it. You can see how I did mine on my build which is attached to my signature. I still have a canister filter in the closet for if or when I need to run a large carbon load.

Thanks for that thought! I never knew what an overflow system was!

In this case, i would need a small and wide tank to sit at the bottom, and a return pump.

I do not know how to split the chambers in the new tank though, like what are the materials I need.

Would you be willing to work with me to get a list going?

Also what to do after I acquire the equipment and material :)

Many THanks!
 
I will keep the Ecosystem Pro60 on, and take the Canister off. I will just attach the new wet/dry system as the tank is running instead of a water change :)

I just need good techniques and media to use in it!
 
I got my sump pre-made off of ebay. I measured my under tank space and went looking. The major companies build sumps but are a bit pricy. My LFS offered to have a unit custom built but I was able to find one that worked for me on e bay. I had to be very cost efficient. I bought almost all my hardware at aquatraders. lights, overflow, return pump, skimmer When I priced comparable items locally I was looking at $1500 I spent around $400. Lets see the sump I got is acrylic and cost $130 I think, shipping was a bit much $20 bucks but was prebuilt all the baffles where installed. My drain line and return line I bought local. Just better quality.

So main things you need. A overflow box, the return pump which you should have rated for the amount the overflow will drain minus head loss. My overflow is rated at 600 gph my return pump is rated 712 gph. Two feet of head loss is the difference. working just perfect. Drain line, I went with a flexible one inch drain line. Return is a clear 3/4 line that the LFS cut to the size I wanted. Skimmer, many options for a in sump skimmer. I bought mine cheap PS 75 and it works well but could be better but for the price I cant complain. Many people like the reef octopus line. Thats the basics...
 
Not really, all that wetdry bio stuff would have to be pulled out...works great for fresh tanks but will lead to nitrate issues with saltwater...Then the dimensions are all kinda wrong...let me look around....Is that going to fit the size you have under your tank?
 
Thanks, looks like a nice one. Will he send it, or chance of fraud?

Which way is the siphon and which is return pump/sump area?

What would i add to this other than a good overflow with a matching return pump(+head pressure)?

Gravel? Calcium reactor? Crushed coral skeletons? I need help filling the chambers.


Looks like i will order that, and keep the Ecosystem Pro60 on for optimal clarity and besides it has a skimmer modified onto it. will keep it on and just take the canister off.

Might need to put a vortek MP10 for flow!
 
I got mine with no issue. I have the bubble trap on the right side. The middle has live rock and cheato. I got a little piece of plexiglass for above that for the light to sit on. The left is the input area with my skimmer in that section...
 
This how mine is set up. I have a brace right in the middle...
 

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This how mine is set up. I have a brace right in the middle...

Nice set up!

I see you have a blue piece of tape on your sump. is that to see how much difference the return pump and overflow are making?

if so, how often are you supposed to take water out/put water in?
 
The tape is the" dont put more water in here then this stupid"thing...Higher then the tape and have a power outage I will have water on the floor. This is the section of the sump that will have water fluctuations. I will eventually have a auto top off feeding this section but for now I just pour my top of water directly into this area...but not above the tape line. :D
 
Hello All!


I am new to reefing, and need help arranging my LR as well as a few other tweaks to my build.

As you can see in the photos, i have 4 T5 HO 54W. Two bulbs are Pure Actinic Powerchrome from D-D Gisemann(if its spelled that way), one Blue+ bulb from ATI, and the other Powerchrome as well but daylight spectrum.


They are running much cooler temperatures than the "stock" fluorescent T5s. For two hours after lights off, my 18W 2600 lumen LED Moonlight Actinic 453nm peak goes on, and back on two hours before lights on!

As for my filtration, its MarineLand C-220 Canister Filter, I believe its 4-stage including the carbon. Also have an Ecosystem Pro60 bought from Dr. F+S, this has a modifies CPR protein skimmer attached, and holds 10g of refuge volume. I have LR, Chaeto, and some moss ball inside. Currently running light on that 24/7.


I have a good amount of LR, and LS. I have all chemicals and checked KH, PH, Amm, Ni, Na, and Mag. I do water changes once a week with a 15% off the top, and I put freshwater RO/DI from LFS back in. Salinity is good, but it used to be off the charts.


Please advise any teaks or modifications to my setup, or my ideology/routine!
I will keep an open mind to criticism since im just getting started with this.
I set up my tank end of Sept..
Your setup is quite impressive indeed and I see a lot of very enthusiastic answers which is excellent. If you allow; I only have one question I do not see any reference to a water cooling system or even an air conditioner... Just a reminder that they are a must, as you will easily understand.
 
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