Advices need it on my coverted 30 gals tank

[kkw30806]

Current this is what I have in stock for my converted tank.
- One 30 gals tank
- One Aqua Clear 110 filter
- One JBJ 36" PC light fixture (96 Watts - 1 white & 1 blue)
- Currently shopping for protein skimmer

I am debating if I should get the Coralife or the Bak Pak 2 skimmer. Do you or anyone have any experience with the bak pak 2? I like the sound and look of the Coralife since Jasen has experience with it but my problem is I have a acrylic tank that the top does not have enough opening to hang out the device (I might have to do some custom fitting). The bak pak skimmer is a little smaller and I think it might work better on the back of the tank. I will take some picture of my current empty tank for you guys to look and possible give me some suggestion. I know I don't need it now until the cycle of the water is done (am I correct?). I just want to prepare now so I won't be worry about it later. Thanks again for reading my post.
Jack

 

[jhnrb]

The Bak pak 2 will work just fine as long as you do not overload the tank with too many fish. im not sure of the attachment though you will need to check that out. I used a back pack on a nano system I had and it worked very well.

 

[kkw30806]

Thanks jhnrb fpr your advise. I will definitely keep that in mind. I have one more question though. On the top of my acrylic tank, I only have 2 small holes and a big hole for the water filter. Is it wise to custom drill another hole to fit the protein skimmer (Bak Pak). Again, is it safe to make another hole on top of the tank. Since it's plastic technically... I think it's okay right? Here's couple of the pictures of my empty tank.

p.s. I am planning to purchase the live rock and live sand this weekend. Will see how it goes.
Thanks...

 

[jhnrb]

I would not want to be responsible for any modifications to your acrylic aquarium. There is no gaurantee that you will not develope stress cracks over time. I would recommend you seek the advice of someone close to you that has some acrylic/plastic experiance to advise on an acceptable modification, or, check with the lfs where you purchased the tank for their recommendations on a skimmer installation. sorry this is not a direct answer but best I can do this far away. hope it helps.

 

[minireefer]

If you look at say the coral life product. The out flow and intake really don't need to lock onto something. flexible tubing will go were you need it to. Now for the main funnel tube. I was thinking that you might just attach a piece of plastic(epoxy or some other way) as a lip to attach the main piece to

 

[kkw30806]

Thanks guys... for the advise. I spoke to couple more guys and took my chance and did a small custom hole on the top of my tank. Luckily it didn't make any demage to the tank... :Cheers:

Anyway, I cleaned my tank and tested for leaks... again, no problem. I went ahead and did my shopping today. I bought live sand, rocks, salt water & some Nitroxmax Marine (for fast cycling) from one of my local aquaium place.

I have 1 Question though! The guys from the store told me that I start stocking clean crew in about a week since I use the Nitroxmax Marine thing. Is it true? I know it will help to speed up the process but is it that fast? Any common?

Anyway, I will continue monitor my tank for the next several weeks. Wish me luck. I will post some pictures soon.
THanks all, Jack

 

[minireefer]

I found a cheaper price on the skimmer.$88
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=ES33000
As fare stocking in inverts next week.I some quick type cycle stuff in first 12 gallon nano.And put 1 damsel in there.It died in two do to high ammonia and nitrites.I would go and get Seachem Ammonia Alert about $5 and some dip 5 in 1 test strips.I like these for quick readings. Unless you have some test kits already.Just make sure the ammonia and nitrite have spiked and gone to zero

 

[kkw30806]

Got it... !!! :) will contiue to monitor. THanks for the link and tips.

 

[jhnrb]

Also remember your cleanup crew is just that, if you do not have any food for them to clean up algae, etc. then do not add. you should let your system cycle and start to mature, add only to the marine system those animals that contribute something to the system and not just take from it for the first 6 months. be careful not to add too many animals at one time. too many clean up crew members will = attrition when food supply is gone and attrition = pollution. hope this helps a bit.

Almost forgot Golden Rule: 559254799261 = ONLY BAD THINGS HAPPEN QUICKLY IN SALTWATER. GOOD THINGS TAKE TIME.

 

[kkw30806]

Thanks for the tips jhnrb. I am cycling the tank currently with the PC light during the day time and sometimes at night (artinic). Is it suggested? Also, when I am ready to put in the cleaning crews, how many should I buy for my 30 gals tank? Does it depend on how much algae I have?
Thanks again...
p.s. I am sorry... but what is the meaning behind your golden rule? I think I read it somewhere before but I don't quite remember. Thanks...
Jack

 

[minireefer]

I would add some various types of snails(Turbos good all over algae eaters,Nassarius and bumble bees they good for uneaten meety foods and detritus.they will sift your sand also.10 or so for now,and a few types of hermit crabs(red legs,blue legs,and zebras maybe like 3 small ones.They will grow with your system.Later on you can add more types or quanity.For your lighting if it ran during the cycle you get algae growth.With my PC lights I like put the actinic lights on for about half before the 10k come on.Than the actinic stay on about a half hour after the 10k gows off .In the night I have string of lunar lights monted to the canopy lid.They switch colors evey minute of so.
I guess his sign means if your patient you will have nice trouble fee reef tank,but if rush things you will have dead life in your tank and cash down the drain

 

[jhnrb]

lights only needed if you have live rock, live sand, or somthing live in the system. for the golden rule lets see. best way to explain it is if you have a tire on your car you want to change it, you 1st need to let the air out. letting the air out 1st is the golden rule for changing a tire. the numbers you see on my golden rules are ficticious. (some may be able to change a tire without letting out the air stranger things have happened so there are always exceptions to the golden rules which may be different in each of our minds depending on how you look at things. my golden rules are my opinions alone that you may agree or disagree with). hope this clears it up. thanks for asking. maybe I should start a thread called golden rules so everyone can post their golden rules too. wishing you good fishing.

 

[kkw30806]

Thanks you, you two for those valuable advise. I will definitely keep that in mind. Yes... I am trying to be patient so my effort will pay off (honestly, I want to start stocking the cleaning crews LIKE NOW... haha). But I know they will have no food to eat and that is not wise. :D Anyway, I will let the water cycle it for a while before I will consider putting anything in the tank. Basically, I should be seeing some algae first before I stock some cleaning crew right?

Thanks again guys...
p.s. here's a picture of my tank (with live rock, live sand and water) :D

 

[jhnrb]

thanks for the pic. keep us posted as things progress. good luck and happy fishing.

 

[ReefWannabe]

LOL john first rule to changing a tire is to break free the lugs, jack it up, take off lugs, off comes tire, new one goes on, and reverse the tkae off process. (assuming you have decent rims and not hubcaps, otherwise taking the hubcap off is first.

Just posting this to be posting I guess.


Tank looks awesome, Hope mine starts to look like that once I get everything in order!!! And yes wait till you have something for your cleanup crew to actually eat first.

 

[jhnrb]

Sorry you missed the point I was making lo, but, we all ended up at the same place and that is what counts. (once the air is let out you drive the car to the next garage and have the tire replaced, with probably new rim also) so no matter how you attempt to do it there is always more than one way to get there. This illustrates that sometimes the method used would seem rediculous but the end result is a new tire and rim. fixing the problem your way would be the cheap way of doing it and more practical, the illustration i gave would entail more cost and time, so thanks for taking the bait. As we can see getting to the same place is not always as easy as some would think. so in salt water aquariums sometimes the obvious is not readily understood or known. happy fishing. good luck with your system.

 

[kkw30806]

Thank you and I think both of you have a point there. Well, right now... it just a waiting game. Will keep you guys updated as progress goes.... :D Thanks guys...

p.s. One more thing. How often should I check my Nitrate, Nitrite, ph etc...? Every week? Everyday? I am going to make a excel spreadsheet to keep track of the reading. Thanks all.

 

[kkw30806]

new status on my tank...

Hi guys... incredibly discovery today. After I came home today, I noticed my tank develop some brown alage on sand and rocks. I was SHOCK!!! :shock: So, is it a good thing or a bad thing? Are those food for my future cleaning crew? Here are some pictures.

Also, I finally broke down and bought a Pro pack (like cpr bak pak) protein skimmer. Installed and tested and so far it collected some brown smelly stuff off my tank. Looks like its working.

Tested with test kit along with a pH tester. Here are some result
Nitrate Nitrite Alkalinity pH Salinity SG
01/22/06 40 0 300 7.8 32 1.024
01/24/06 20 0.5 300 7.7 32 1.024

As for pH, I used a test kit and a test phobe. The result is a little different due to the color chart that I read on test kit. I don't know if I read it wrong or what the difference is between 7.8 to 8.4 (what it indicated on test kit). What do you guys think? From phobe, it said 7.7 to 7.8. ???

THanks all,

 

[jhnrb]

If the probe was properly calibrated then I would go with the probe as long as you know it is fuctioning properly. your salinity should be 35ppt. pH should not fluctuate more than a few points in 24 hours, say 1.023 - 1.025. your alkalinity could be raised a little bit, but for now stablize your salinity at full sea water strength of 1.025 at 80 degrees. Check out the helpful articles there is information on salinity, alkalinity, etc. These articles will assist you in understanding the mechanics and correct levels.

 

[kkw30806]

ok... I think the probe is probably calibrated. It came with the calibrated form and it was tested. I tested pH again tonight and it was 8.0 and salinity is still at 32ppt. SG is the same at 1.024. I also bought a test kit for Ammonia today and it came out of 0.25. I know it suppose to go up and come back down to 0 and from there, Nitrite will goes up and comes back down to 0 as well.

Hmmm... I am start getting a little headache now. Trying to understand and remember what each term does and do. Anyway, I will turn up my heater to about 80 degrees and try to stablize salinity at 1.025. Will see what happen. I am still concern on my algae problem. Do you think it's the dead shrimp that I put in that created the problem? It was about 2 days ago...