Algae problems exacerbated by strong lighting

hudel

Reefing newb
[FONT=&quot]I am new to reef aquariums but after reviewing a myriad of discussions associated with algae issues, it is my belief a major contributor to nasty algae is too much lighting.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I recently had an algae explosion in my 72 gal bow front. I decided to reduce my lighting by 70%. And within a day about 80% of the visible algae disappeared....humm...
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Note the pic of the stag horn rock...it was covered in nasty brown algae 20 hours before I took this picture.:bowdown:
[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
 

Attachments

  • Stag Horn Live Rock.JPG
    Stag Horn Live Rock.JPG
    23.8 KB · Views: 659
What exactly do you have for lighting on this 72g bowfront, and how old are the bulbs, how long has the tank been up and running, and how are nitrates and phosphates and all that good stuff testing out?

what type of water source are you using? and how long are you running your lights per day (photoperiod)
 
Algae requires two major elements to grow. A source of nutrients and a source of light. Eliminate one or the other and algae growth is halted.
 
pratt is asking the right questions and we need to know the answers to best understand what is causing the algae.

If the algae is gone within 1 day simply by 30% less light confuses me a little. but if it worked then keep it up for a few more days to prevent it from coming back.
 
Of course your corals need the light too.
Sounds like you may be having diatoms,which is normal in a new tank.
But just for kicks,what are your parameters?
 
Clearly nitrates and light are primary ingredients for algae growth.

In my particular case tested: NO3 = 30, PO4 =.5, CA2=20+, KH = 10. My lighting is 96w 10000 and 96w Actinic.

I am running a Coralife Super 125 10 hours a day and a Rena xP4 24/7 with charcoal and ceramic. I have 4 small fish and two tiny hermits.
I have 80 lbs live Fiji and Caribbean live sand
:grumble:
 
RO water.

What puzzles me is there seems to be considerable conversations and hand wringing about nitrate problems, and almost never anyone suggests that too much lighting may be a significant contributing factor.
 
RO water.

What puzzles me is there seems to be considerable conversations and hand wringing about nitrate problems, and almost never anyone suggests that too much lighting may be a significant contributing factor.

Nitrates not registering is a tricky thing as well. Since it IS the food source for algae they may not be detectable since they are being "consumed".

I don't think too much light has as much to play as you think. However old bulbs and having the lights on "too much" will definitely not help these problems.
 
RO water.

What puzzles me is there seems to be considerable conversations and hand wringing about nitrate problems, and almost never anyone suggests that too much lighting may be a significant contributing factor.

believe me you don't have too much light.

I haven't seen any discussion of how old your bulbs are. Temperature is also a important in algae growth... but doesn't get the mention nitrates and phosphates get.

what kind of TDS are you getting straight out of your RO unit? and is it RO or RO/DI?
 
I am running a Coralife Super 125 10 hours a day and a Rena xP4 24/7 with charcoal and ceramic.
:grumble:
I would suggest you reconsider this practice. Between a skimmer and a cannister, I would run the skimmer 24/7 and just use the cannister to "polish" when needed. As stated above, you need nutrients and light to grow algae and I dont think anyone will dispute that turning off the lights helps, but its just a temporary fix. You really need to determine what is causing your nitrates to spike and attack that problem so that you can run your lights normally. It was also stated above, but you do not have too much light and your corals need it so you don't want to run reduced lighting any longer than you need. BTW, how many hours a day do you normally run your lights?
 
Clearly nitrates and light are primary ingredients for algae growth.

In my particular case tested: NO3 = 30, PO4 =.5, CA2=20+, KH = 10. My lighting is 96w 10000 and 96w Actinic.

I am running a Coralife Super 125 10 hours a day and a Rena xP4 24/7 with charcoal and ceramic. I have 4 small fish and two tiny hermits.
I have 80 lbs live Fiji and Caribbean live sand
:grumble:
Lighting is not your problem for sure. You are near the bottom of the totem pole as far as lighting intensity. The only light weaker than what you have is normal output fluorescent strip lights. The order of intensity for reef lighting is normal output fluorescent, power compact fluorescent (your lights), VHO, T5HO and metal halide.

Your nitrate is high and your phosphate is very high, considering the recommended level of phosphate is 0.03ppm. Try running some GFO (granular ferric oxide) to bring down the phosphate.

The CSS125 is not a good skimmer by any means. Run it 24/7, or better yet, get a skimmer that actually works.

What brand charcoal are you using and how often do you change it out?
 
Lighting is not your problem for sure. You are near the bottom of the totem pole as far as lighting intensity. The only light weaker than what you have is normal output fluorescent strip lights. The order of intensity for reef lighting is normal output fluorescent, power compact fluorescent (your lights), VHO, T5HO and metal halide.

Your nitrate is high and your phosphate is very high, considering the recommended level of phosphate is 0.03ppm. Try running some GFO (granular ferric oxide) to bring down the phosphate.

The CSS125 is not a good skimmer by any means. Run it 24/7, or better yet, get a skimmer that actually works.

What brand charcoal are you using and how often do you change it out?
Intense Capt. I see you aren't sugar coating anything today. Are you still worked up about the nonsense in this "How is it looking" thread or what?
 
I agree with Capt.

You ain't got hardly enough light to grow a mushroom. So don't worry about putting so much excess light on the tank that it's the cause of your algae. It ain't. If you have a problem with your lights, it might be they are old. As a rule, lights should be replaced at least once a year. Most lights will last a year. Notice I said MOST, not all lights will maintain their designed spectrum for a full year. Some lights wear out after 6 months of heavy use. If your lights are older than 8 months it could be they have lost their spectrum and have started throwing off the wrong spectrum for corals.......... but the perfect spectrum for algae.

Your nitrates are high IMO. You need to get rid of that canister filter right away. Or plan to clean it every 3 days religiously. A canister filter traps detritus (fish poop and uneaten food) where it will rot. It will experience some nitrogen breakdown, but since a canister can only grow aerobic bacteria inside, the nitrogen cycle cannot run fully through to nitrogen gas. The aerobic bacteria simply eat and produce nitrates and thats as far as it goes in a canister. There is no nitrate reduction. There is only nitrate PRODUCTION.

Or......... you can keep it and just run carbon in it for about 1 or 2 days and then take it off the tank. This is how I use my small canister and my small HOB Whisper. Depends on what mood I'm in. Both work. The Whisper 20 is easier to set up, but doesn't FORCE the water through the carbon as well. The small Rapids canister works much better at FORCING the water over and through the carbon graduals, but it's a pain in the ass to fill the media bag, hang it on the tank and secure the hoses, prime it, get all the bubbles out...... but DAMN it works great. I run carbon once a month. I run it on the 30g display for 24-30 hours and then I take it off and slap it right on the 10g frag tank for another day or maybe 2. Then the HOB goes away until next month. I clean it out with hot fresh water, dump the carbon down the garbage disposal, dry it all out and store it under the cabinet.

Your phosphates are high as well. What brand and type of food are you using? Flake food is loaded with phosphates and ash. Ash breaks down into phosphates later on, so it only contributes to it over a long period and makes it all the more frustrating. Feed frozen foods and rinse before you introduce it to the tank. I rinse my food in RO water and only introduce the meaty chunks to my tank. The fish isn't going to suck up that little cloud of food "dust" that you'll see when you drop frozen brine/krill/misis foods into the tank. The fish eat the chunks and the rest of it falls to the bottom to feed your cleaning crew. I'm slowly starving my cleaning crews because I've reduced the food load in my tanks so low that there is no extra. I only put in what the fish will eat in 30 seconds or a minute at the most. Nothing falls down to the bottom. Nothing floats around and gets sucked into my refugium to fuel the cleaning crew, the algae, the nitrates and the phosphates. I've starved 5 or 6 snails and 3 crabs in the last 2 months. Hurray for me!!!

Have you bought a freshwater test kit to test the water coming out of your RO unit? I did. I wanted to make sure my RO unit was working properly so I bought a nitrate test kit, ph, ammonia, copper all for fresh water. That way I can test it once every couple months .......... (like NOW because the mountain snow is melting and we have a lot of spring runoff water coming into our municipal water supplies..... which introduces all the above and other heavy metals)

You need to get a handle on the nitrates and the phosphates. You also need to evaluate the age of your lights.

I have a 30g display and a 10g frag tank. BOTH tanks use a HOB refugium with a built in skimmer. BOTH refugia have a nice DSB to deal with nitrates. BOTH refugia have a big ball of cheato macroalgae that I trim back occasionally and discard in the trash. It's natural nitrate reduction. Fuel the good macro algae in the refugium where I can control it. That starves the algae in the tank where I don't WANT it. Cut the macro algae out and toss it. Nutrient export. :Cheers:

I had a BAD algae problem a few months ago. My T5 HO lights were over a year old and I knew I needed to replace them, but lack of funds...... you know. Finally the lights started to burn out and I had to suck it up and buy new ones. $150 later and 2 months........ my algae is GONE. By doing something as simple as replacing my lights, it threw my tank back into the right color spectrum to promote CORAL growth and not algae.

If you can figure out a way to keep your pH consistently over 8.3 and under 8.5 you can just about guarantee no algae problems. Algae loves our reef tanks because most of us struggle to keep levels around 8.0 or 8.2...... if you figure out a way to keep a reef tank at 8.4 without dosing all kinds of buffers and running a dosing pump full of kalk... you'd be a rich man my friend.
 
Last edited:
Hudel, first off I would like to say that everyone on this forum is on edge BIG TIME! We have another user that has everyone wound up from his lack of research and basically his crappy attitude towards reefkeeping.
 
I'm just trying to help the guy. I identified the problems I could see and told him how to fix them.

It's up to him how he approaches the fix.
 
Nitrates are not caused by high light, which by the way you dont have, as have been previously mentioned. Nitrates are caused from the waste product of a bacteria that eats nitrites, nitrites are caused from the bacteria that eats ammonia and this is known as the Nitrogen Cycle.

What you are descriping sounds an awful lot like diatoms to me, which is very common is new reef systems. They can also be a sign of not enough water movement too.
 
RC I wasnt bashing anyone in particular but I still think that the membership here is pretty wound up. Wouldnt you agree? The advice you gave him was sound.
 
Back
Top