anyone used a light switch?
- Thread starter dwinzent
- Start date
ndepratt
Equipment Junkie
well, for example the sun here in Kansas is up from 6am to roughly 9pm.... far too long for aquarium lighting.
plus i like to have mine on late... my last photoperiod was 3pm to 1am, or something similar.
plus i like to have mine on late... my last photoperiod was 3pm to 1am, or something similar.
KidJ57
Struggling Reef Addict
However if you wanted to do something like that, I could definitely help you out with the project. First thing would be to get a good timer switch; I'd suggest something like this:
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EA6TLA/ref=asc_df_B000EA6TLA857037?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=msnshop-tools-20&linkCode=asn]Amazon.com: Aube by Honeywell TI035/U Solar Programmable Timer Switch, White: Home Improvement[/ame]
I like the one by intermatic better, but this one is rated to 2400 watts which may be key for this purpse. What's cool with these switches is that you can set the timer to come on at Sunrise and Sunset based upon almanac information for your given longitude/lattitude; hence you can set the lights for your fish's region. This would also be a lot easier and less problamatic than trying to set-up a photo-sensor (i.e. pratt's example of the sun being out too long in your area).
If you have electrical experience then you know where to go from here, but if not, PM me and I can walk you through the install, but this is definitely do-able. However, this will be a lot messier and more expensive than just using a regular plug in timer like this: Intermatic Multi-Purpose 2 Outlet Digital Appliance Timer - Timers - Indoor & Outdoor, but I will admit, the switch idea could look and work pretty darn well
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EA6TLA/ref=asc_df_B000EA6TLA857037?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=msnshop-tools-20&linkCode=asn]Amazon.com: Aube by Honeywell TI035/U Solar Programmable Timer Switch, White: Home Improvement[/ame]
I like the one by intermatic better, but this one is rated to 2400 watts which may be key for this purpse. What's cool with these switches is that you can set the timer to come on at Sunrise and Sunset based upon almanac information for your given longitude/lattitude; hence you can set the lights for your fish's region. This would also be a lot easier and less problamatic than trying to set-up a photo-sensor (i.e. pratt's example of the sun being out too long in your area).
If you have electrical experience then you know where to go from here, but if not, PM me and I can walk you through the install, but this is definitely do-able. However, this will be a lot messier and more expensive than just using a regular plug in timer like this: Intermatic Multi-Purpose 2 Outlet Digital Appliance Timer - Timers - Indoor & Outdoor, but I will admit, the switch idea could look and work pretty darn well
KidJ57
Struggling Reef Addict
Definitely would be cool...you've even got me thinking that I might want to do the same thing, except for the fact that i live in an apartment.
Anyway, before I get started on the "how-to" stuff, a couple of questions. Is the outlet you use now already controlled by a standard switch? Do you want to control that outlet (or half of it so the other plug can be used for the rest of your stuff) or do you want to add a completely new outlet and switch just for your lights? What will you be controlling by timer (i.e. two 400w Halogen lamps, T-5's and a blower, etc.)? Do you want to be able to control two different sets of lights (i.e. your Halogens go off and your LED'S come on)? Are you pretty handy/have any experience with wiring/do you have all your own tools? Ummm....that's it, I think, haha, sorry, but it's all important.
This sounds like it's going to be fun :bounce:!
dcantucson
Reef pro
You could always get one of those Solaris Lighting systems. :mrgreen:
Is the outlet you use now already controlled by a standard switch?- NO
What will you be controlling by timer- 1x400w metal halide
Do you want to be able to control two different sets of lights-eventually
Are you pretty handy/have any experience with wiring/do you have all your own tools?-yup my dads an auto mechanic and has alot of wiring tools because of it. also i have alot of expirience wiring and soldering computers/xbox 360's but anyway
I have a switch that is set up to plug in a standard GFCI outlet and has two wires coming out of it. i believe power and common but not sure? (doesnt make sense for the third prong if its only using two wires.) Just thought it would be cool to see it be done. but now that i think about it i would probably want to wire it with a giant capacitor or timer/battery so my lights would turn off after dark. thats the only problem the time when i look at my aquarium most is at night.
What will you be controlling by timer- 1x400w metal halide
Do you want to be able to control two different sets of lights-eventually
Are you pretty handy/have any experience with wiring/do you have all your own tools?-yup my dads an auto mechanic and has alot of wiring tools because of it. also i have alot of expirience wiring and soldering computers/xbox 360's but anyway
I have a switch that is set up to plug in a standard GFCI outlet and has two wires coming out of it. i believe power and common but not sure? (doesnt make sense for the third prong if its only using two wires.) Just thought it would be cool to see it be done. but now that i think about it i would probably want to wire it with a giant capacitor or timer/battery so my lights would turn off after dark. thats the only problem the time when i look at my aquarium most is at night.
KidJ57
Struggling Reef Addict
What do you mean by having a sitch set up to plug into a GFCI? Are you talking about one of those plug in lamp switch extension chords?
Also, don't give up on the switch idea yet, there are still ways to make it work, even if you want it to come on at night: like I said earlier, the switch's digital memory turns off and on according to what Sunset and Sunrise for that geographical location should be for a specific date according to an Almanac calculation. Hence, the lights will come on for as long as the sun is supposed to be out that day, but if you set the time late, let's say by 3 or 4 hours, intentionally, the switch will still operate according to the almanac (i.e. if sunset is at 7:30pm, the switch turns off when it's clock, that YOU set, reaches 7:30 pm, but your actual time could be 10:30pm if you so choose). Do you get what I'm saying or did I just make it way more complicated?
The reason why I asked if you wanted to operate two differnt sets of lights is because of installing 1 switch, you would install 2, but the amount of work is the same; honestly, if you're as handy as you say, this really isn't all that difficult and will be a pretty gratifying, as well as cool looking, project.
The first step will be to figure out where you want your switches to go, prefferably right next to a stud, right around 4 feet from the floor.
Next will be to locate your closest power source (this can be a plug/outlet or a switch); ideally this will be somewhere on the way to where you want to plug your lights in/put your new outlet.
Here comes the fun-to-do, but not-so-fun-to-clean-up-afterward-and-repair part: Break out a path in your dry wall from the new switch to the existing power source, which hopefully includes the location of your new outlet; if not, you have to break out the path from that to your switch as well. The more square-like you can make the cuts in your drywall the better as this will make it easier to patch later; remember, for the most part you just need enough room to drill a hole through the studs or to drill in your new junction boxes, so you don't have to make HUGE holes in the drywall, just big enough. Also, if this is a long distance, and you have crawl-space/basement or attic access, you may want to consider running your wire under the house/in the attic which would just require opening enough drywall to drill through your fireblocks and fish the wire.
Once this is done drill your holes through the studs for your wire; I suggest using 12-3 Romex or MC cabling rather than running conduit and fishing the wire through that. The Romex will be easier to work with, but the MC is safer in that it is harder for someone to cut through it accidentally if they were taking a saws-all to the drywall; either will be less hassle and require the drilling of smaller holes in your studs (1/2" rather than 1" or bigger).
...to be continued (I don't know if this sounds already like too much work or if you know where to go from here, so I'll stop in the mean time)
Also, don't give up on the switch idea yet, there are still ways to make it work, even if you want it to come on at night: like I said earlier, the switch's digital memory turns off and on according to what Sunset and Sunrise for that geographical location should be for a specific date according to an Almanac calculation. Hence, the lights will come on for as long as the sun is supposed to be out that day, but if you set the time late, let's say by 3 or 4 hours, intentionally, the switch will still operate according to the almanac (i.e. if sunset is at 7:30pm, the switch turns off when it's clock, that YOU set, reaches 7:30 pm, but your actual time could be 10:30pm if you so choose). Do you get what I'm saying or did I just make it way more complicated?
The reason why I asked if you wanted to operate two differnt sets of lights is because of installing 1 switch, you would install 2, but the amount of work is the same; honestly, if you're as handy as you say, this really isn't all that difficult and will be a pretty gratifying, as well as cool looking, project.
The first step will be to figure out where you want your switches to go, prefferably right next to a stud, right around 4 feet from the floor.
Next will be to locate your closest power source (this can be a plug/outlet or a switch); ideally this will be somewhere on the way to where you want to plug your lights in/put your new outlet.
Here comes the fun-to-do, but not-so-fun-to-clean-up-afterward-and-repair part: Break out a path in your dry wall from the new switch to the existing power source, which hopefully includes the location of your new outlet; if not, you have to break out the path from that to your switch as well. The more square-like you can make the cuts in your drywall the better as this will make it easier to patch later; remember, for the most part you just need enough room to drill a hole through the studs or to drill in your new junction boxes, so you don't have to make HUGE holes in the drywall, just big enough. Also, if this is a long distance, and you have crawl-space/basement or attic access, you may want to consider running your wire under the house/in the attic which would just require opening enough drywall to drill through your fireblocks and fish the wire.
Once this is done drill your holes through the studs for your wire; I suggest using 12-3 Romex or MC cabling rather than running conduit and fishing the wire through that. The Romex will be easier to work with, but the MC is safer in that it is harder for someone to cut through it accidentally if they were taking a saws-all to the drywall; either will be less hassle and require the drilling of smaller holes in your studs (1/2" rather than 1" or bigger).
...to be continued (I don't know if this sounds already like too much work or if you know where to go from here, so I'll stop in the mean time)
could i run the power for my lights from my light switch? (i dont see why not but it is easier to acces) i wanted to run the wires to the stud right next to it that way it wouldnt have to make any holes in the drywall that i need to patch i havent ever done that and dont plan to. i have attic acess but my aquarium is in a finished basement so i dont think you can acces my room from the attic. i hope to add night LEDS eventually but right now i am just running my daytime lights. I am understanding what your saying but would i have to purchase one of those switch things off of amazon? (not like its that pricy) whew i think thats it. keep the tut comin!
bjohanson1234
.........
Not to mention that the MC will ground itself out and trip the breaker if the wires become either over loaded or broken where as the romex is liable to just start your whole house on fire. I would recomend using conduit over either of the two options but since it is a remodel, the MC would be fine.
If you can go up or down, it would be ALOT easier. If you have an unfinished basement, or an attic, that is most likely where your existing power is coming from. And you should be able to see where you need to drill. Get some gem boxes and go to town. You might not even need to break open your drywall. If you dont have to, dont. It never lookes the same once you have to patch it.
Brian
KidJ57
Struggling Reef Addict
You can ground romex, and in some areas (i.e. out in coastal California) it's strongly suggested in residential use due to the salt air corrosion of metalic conduit, boxes, and fittings; the fact that romex starts fires is an old rumor that stemmed from the days when even standard wire was fiber wrapped or on the occasions where human error/stupidity was more at fault than the fact that "Romex is so easy to cut through". The fact is, Romex is super easy to use, but I too have been brought up on and thus prefer metal conduit even though neither one is TRULY better than the other one.
However, BJ is right with the best way to eliminate having to re-patch your drywall...do a switch directly above the outlet you want to install, and preferalby one of which would be next to an existing switch or outlet. The trick would be to have the existing power source, the new outlet/outlets, and the new switch/switches contained within the same two studs (16" typically) and below the fireblock (could be anywhere, but typicall just below :frustrat: or above :bounce: where one would typically want to put a switch). If you don't have a stud finder you can tap the wall with a knuckle and listen for a difference in tones -- there should be big spaces of hollow sounding knocks with shorter sounding strips every 16" and one going horizontally at some point. If you can fit all that with a hollow rectangle, WOO HOO, no drywall patching, but if not, this isn't going to go the way you want.
No you don't have to use the switch I posted from Amazon, I was just using that as an example of how cool they can get, but it all depends on what you want it to do...if you want one to adjust it's time automatically however, than you are going to want something LIKE that, but you don't have to get that exact one; like I said earlier, there's other one's I like better, and last time I checked, you can get them at electrical wholesaler for like $30.
The other idea that would be cheap easy and not require any drywall damage would be something like this:
Lutron TT-300NLH-BL - $10.97 at The Home Depot
There are three problems with this: one, they're rated to 300 watts (you have a 400watt), two, you would have to have a dimmable ballast for your hallide, and three, these are typically UNGROUNDED and anytime you are within 6 feet of water, everything should be grounded or at the very least plugged into a surge protector/GFCI outlet. I personally have my surge protector plugged into a GFCI outlet as not all of my aquarium devices do not come with grounded cabled (i.e. Koralia 3 Power Head, heater, etc.).
Why do I have a feeling that I keep avoiding a question or getting to a point in this thread?
KidJ57
Struggling Reef Addict
I forgot, if you want to be real clever and get yourself a little more wiggle room, you can use one of these to by pass your fire block or get another stud over
Klein Tools Flex Bit Auger 3/4 In. x 54 In. - 53719SEN at The Home Depot
...if you are really clever you could do both or bypass more than one stud, but that would take some threading skill and luck.
Klein Tools Flex Bit Auger 3/4 In. x 54 In. - 53719SEN at The Home Depot
...if you are really clever you could do both or bypass more than one stud, but that would take some threading skill and luck.
bjohanson1234
.........
Well, I am conditioned to use conduit because I live near Chicago and romex is not allowed. As for the Romex causing fires I said if it was overloaded. As in a 30 amp breaker being put on a 14 gauge wire or something like that. Granted in a propper instalation, that shouldnt happen but GOD knows it does. As for the ground, I prefer the grounding material to surround the wires and not just be another with in there.
Anything within 6 ft of water should be on a GFCI outlet. It can save your life.
Brian
Anything within 6 ft of water should be on a GFCI outlet. It can save your life.
Brian
KidJ57
Struggling Reef Addict
Oh, I think we all know that two well; rule #1 to electrical or any kind of remodel/construction work: no job is ever easy; rule #2 unless you did the work, always assume that someone screwed it up.
dcantucson
Reef pro
True, very true! :lol:
KidJ57
Struggling Reef Addict
haha, I just realized I used two instead of too...
<---Tard
<---Tard
bjohanson1234
.........
I'll let it slide.:mrgreen:
daugherty
part time reefer
thats one thing i have been wanting to do is run another circuit for my tank but wire is spendy
KidJ57
Struggling Reef Addict
:bounce:...'preciate it
It's actually been a little cheaper lately as compared to just last year...but it's still not cheap, I know what you mean. You should check on Craigslist though, I see homeowners all the time around here selling their left over scrap from their "Do-it-yourself" projects for extra cash...don't know how much you need, but it could be worth a look.
bjohanson1234
.........
Yeah last summer a 500 foot spool of #14 was almost 50 bucks. Now it is in the mid 20's!!!!!!!
I was getting over 2 bucks a pound for scrap house wire and over 4 bucks a pound if I stripped it!!!!!!
Now it is less than half that
I was getting over 2 bucks a pound for scrap house wire and over 4 bucks a pound if I stripped it!!!!!!
Now it is less than half that
