When looking online at different coral most sites give a stat box for the coral with some of its requirements. With the lighting requirements they use "low, moderate, and high" but what exactly are the low, moderate, high? I can assume high would be metal halide and HO T5 but what type of lighting would fall under the "moderate" catagory of lighting?
Coral and lighting
- Thread starter Ridrom
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ndepratt
Equipment Junkie
This is what I would consider them to be:
Low - PC/CF, I know some people still use them, but they're inefficient, scatter light, and barely penetrate water, IMO.
Medium - A nice HO T5 setup. and if the tank is less than 24" inches tall, I would say 150W MH would be in this. If the tank is more than 24" tall (say 30") then I would consider 250W MH to be in this (this would 20,000K, as 10,000K is a bit of a different story)
High - 250W MH on a tank less than 24", on a deeper tank 400W MH. OR a very nice overdriven (IceCap preferably, IMO) T5 setup with 6-8 high quality lamps, depending on the depth of the tank. It would need to have individual reflectors, and you probably paid an arm and a leg for it ;)
Easier question would be to pick some corals, and ask about them in particular, there are just too many variables :P
Low - PC/CF, I know some people still use them, but they're inefficient, scatter light, and barely penetrate water, IMO.
Medium - A nice HO T5 setup. and if the tank is less than 24" inches tall, I would say 150W MH would be in this. If the tank is more than 24" tall (say 30") then I would consider 250W MH to be in this (this would 20,000K, as 10,000K is a bit of a different story)
High - 250W MH on a tank less than 24", on a deeper tank 400W MH. OR a very nice overdriven (IceCap preferably, IMO) T5 setup with 6-8 high quality lamps, depending on the depth of the tank. It would need to have individual reflectors, and you probably paid an arm and a leg for it ;)
Easier question would be to pick some corals, and ask about them in particular, there are just too many variables :P
Thanks ndepratt i was making a list of corals i would like to have so i could consider what type of lighting i would be best with. I still need to build a new stand and buy a nice protein skimmer. What should come first protein skimmer or lighting? Since my tank is still relatively new should I just concentrate on fish for now then move to coral in a few months?
ndepratt
Equipment Junkie
Just remember while you're making your list that lighting is only part of the equation--FLOW is super important, depending on the type of coral you want, and nutrient levels matter a lot. What I mean is that if you want a soft coral tank, SPS isn't going to like it, and vise versa.
My advice would be to look at as many tanks as you can, go to lots of LFS, browse coral dealers online, just look at as much stuff as you can, before you decide the route you want to take your tank. That would be lighting part. So look into the protein skimming first.
Before fish and lighting, I would definitely get that skimmer, then start adding fish slowly while you decide on what kind of lighting you want.
I say this to everyone with a 55g... so here ya go. A few months into this hobby you're going to be kicking yourself for setting up a 55g. The tank is only 12" wide, so there is no depth. It will be tough to aquascape your tank in a way that looks great, and doesn't press everything up to the glass. If it were my tank I would seriously look into selling the 55g, and getting a 75g, as the tank is not only larger, looks WAY bigger, but will only be an additional 30 or 40 bucks.
Everything you buy for the 55g, will be the same thing you'll buy for the 75g, so the cost is really not a factor. That's just my opinion...
Are you sumping this tank, or what are your plans on the design of this? Sorry, But installations are what I do, so I'm always curious :P
My advice would be to look at as many tanks as you can, go to lots of LFS, browse coral dealers online, just look at as much stuff as you can, before you decide the route you want to take your tank. That would be lighting part. So look into the protein skimming first.
Before fish and lighting, I would definitely get that skimmer, then start adding fish slowly while you decide on what kind of lighting you want.
I say this to everyone with a 55g... so here ya go. A few months into this hobby you're going to be kicking yourself for setting up a 55g. The tank is only 12" wide, so there is no depth. It will be tough to aquascape your tank in a way that looks great, and doesn't press everything up to the glass. If it were my tank I would seriously look into selling the 55g, and getting a 75g, as the tank is not only larger, looks WAY bigger, but will only be an additional 30 or 40 bucks.
Everything you buy for the 55g, will be the same thing you'll buy for the 75g, so the cost is really not a factor. That's just my opinion...
Are you sumping this tank, or what are your plans on the design of this? Sorry, But installations are what I do, so I'm always curious :P
Yes, I am going to sump this tank.I have a CPR continuous siphon overflow that I cant wait to get going. I decided to build a new stand (my current one is wobbly) that is a lot larger than my current,it will be around 24'' wide so that in the future I can upgrade to a bigger tank.
ndepratt
Equipment Junkie
If you're going to sump the tank, then drill it. An overflow box will eventually fail, but a hole doesn't.
queenangel77
Reefing newb
I assume you are talking about the anti-syphon pump. I also have one on my 72 gallon tank with an overflow box. Just to let you know... I have had 2 pumps go out on me in the last 2 months. When the pumps go out the syphon stops, but your return pump does not. long story short. 30 gal of water overflowed the tank. This can also happen when the tubing for the anti syphon gets clogged up an reduces flow. The overflow box cannot keep up with the return pump. just be careful with the overflow. There not as fool proof as they seem. If you do not have water in the tank, i would also have it drilled. I wish i did anyway. IMO
ccCapt
Reef Hacker
This is exactly why I always recommend a U-tube style overflow. I used one for over 15 years and it never failed. It also doesn't rely on another piece of equipment to keep it going.
Navarchus
Almost smarter than a pig
I use 400w MH on my 120, and I think sometimes they are a bit much. It is a pain in the @ to acclimate all my corals to them.
I have to agree with Ndepratt re the 55g. If you already have it set up, then no worries, I started with a 55g tank back in 1995. However, notice that I only say I have been in the hobby since 2000. That is when I got my 120, and that is when my fish stopped dying. Unless you are trying a nano, I urge you to get the largest tank you can reasonably afford (by afford, I mean in terms of upkeep as well as initial cost). Your animals will be happier and your water paramaters will be more stable. But, unfortuntely, you will still want a bigger tank. I swear that if I had a 3000 gallon tank I would be pining for a 5000g.
I have to agree with Ndepratt re the 55g. If you already have it set up, then no worries, I started with a 55g tank back in 1995. However, notice that I only say I have been in the hobby since 2000. That is when I got my 120, and that is when my fish stopped dying. Unless you are trying a nano, I urge you to get the largest tank you can reasonably afford (by afford, I mean in terms of upkeep as well as initial cost). Your animals will be happier and your water paramaters will be more stable. But, unfortuntely, you will still want a bigger tank. I swear that if I had a 3000 gallon tank I would be pining for a 5000g.
dustin_P74
Reef enthusiast
hey nav, if your 120 is a standard tank 48x24x24 then the 400w might be too much light, id suggest down grading to 175-250 watters itll make light acclimation a ton easier
ndepratt
Equipment Junkie
250W over that tank would be perfect. my 2x2x2 cube had a 250W and I could grow SPS on the bottom with my lumenarc reflector ;)
Navarchus
Almost smarter than a pig
Dustin and ndepratt,
400w on my 120 is excessive I agree. But I already own them :/ They are not so bad because they are pendants I am able to raise them significantly above the tank. I also use various shades during aclimation. I got these back in 2000 and, while I have often wished they were 250s (easier to find bulbs, less work to aclimate, less expensive to run), I am hesitant to buy new lightling at this point. Also, the LFS here has an SPS tank they keep with 400W MH. So, I will try to purchase from them whenever possible.
400w on my 120 is excessive I agree. But I already own them :/ They are not so bad because they are pendants I am able to raise them significantly above the tank. I also use various shades during aclimation. I got these back in 2000 and, while I have often wished they were 250s (easier to find bulbs, less work to aclimate, less expensive to run), I am hesitant to buy new lightling at this point. Also, the LFS here has an SPS tank they keep with 400W MH. So, I will try to purchase from them whenever possible.
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ccCapt
Reef Hacker
I totally understand the "using what you already have" deal. But, 400w over that size tank is overkill and you are actually spending alot more on electricity that you need to. The 500g reef at Penn State is lit with 3 400w Giesemann bulbs with Lumenarc reflectors. You can easily get away with using 2 175w Iwasaki 15k bulbs with Lumenarc minis. They put out as many photons as many 400w bulbs...and this has been documented by Sanjay and Ken Feldman. Ken runs both bulbs (400w Giesemann and 175w Iwasaki) over his tank and he gets the same par readings from both bulbs.
Going from 400w to 175w will drop your lighting costs more than 1/2.
Going from 400w to 175w will drop your lighting costs more than 1/2.
Navarchus
Almost smarter than a pig
Still can't justify the $$$$ of a new lighting system. It would be cheaper to buy a new tank to fit my lights.
ccCapt
Reef Hacker
Yeah...it would depend on what type of pendants you have now. If they are DE, it's probably not worth it. If they are SE, it would be well worth it. You can buy a 175w electronic MH ballast for $60 from BallastWise. IF your pendants are SE, when it's time to change bulbs, you can buy 2 new ballasts for $120 and I bet that would pay itself back in a year in electric savings.
Navarchus
Almost smarter than a pig
Thanks for the link.
Getting new ballasts is a good idea. Would I need a new mogul socket too? They have a single ended threaded mogul.
Interestingly, all four of the actinic ballasts in these pendants needed to be replaced recently, so I had them all taken apart. Everything is working fine now, and I am very proud of myself for diagnosing and fixing the problem. I thought it was strange that all four ballasts went bad over the 5 years they were sitting in a basement.
Getting new ballasts is a good idea. Would I need a new mogul socket too? They have a single ended threaded mogul.
Interestingly, all four of the actinic ballasts in these pendants needed to be replaced recently, so I had them all taken apart. Everything is working fine now, and I am very proud of myself for diagnosing and fixing the problem. I thought it was strange that all four ballasts went bad over the 5 years they were sitting in a basement.
ndepratt
Equipment Junkie
the only thing you would need to change is the ballast, and the bulbs.
175W wouldn't be enough light, IMO. Try a dual 250W ballast.
175W wouldn't be enough light, IMO. Try a dual 250W ballast.
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dustin_P74
Reef enthusiast
the 175s would be plenty on a 22 inch deep tank (taking out height assuming there is a 2 inch deep sand bed) when your putting out the PAR of a 400 watter plus the bottom would be the perfect distance for softies, acans, chalice and the lower light loving corals
ccCapt
Reef Hacker
A MH mogul socket is the same for 175, 250 or 400.
175W Performance
250W Performance
400W Performance
It all depends on the bulb you use. Look at PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) and CCT (Correlated Color Temperature - actual K temp) For example, the Iwasaki 175w 15K bulb has more PPFD than the XM 400w 15k bulb.
175W Performance
250W Performance
400W Performance
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