Deioniziation cartridge doesn't last long
- Thread starter d1schertz
- Start date
mariobrothersleeve
squirrel
Tag in, hearing responses
Barch
Reefing newb
What is the TDS reading of the water going into the R/O/?
What is the TDS reading coming from the R/O before it goes into the DI filter?
could be that the R/O membrane is bad....that's where I would start.
What is the TDS reading coming from the R/O before it goes into the DI filter?
could be that the R/O membrane is bad....that's where I would start.
d2mini
Reef enthusiast
Yeah, definitely test the tds as said above.
80g is NOTHING for the DI. It should last wayyyy longer than that.
And when you say you have to change it, what is that based on? Color? TDS reading?
80g is NOTHING for the DI. It should last wayyyy longer than that.
And when you say you have to change it, what is that based on? Color? TDS reading?
I changed it based on the color indicator and the TDS that is mounted on the system itself. As far as the TDS coming in, I never checked it. Not sure if it really matters on how high it is, it still needs to be run through the system. The system itself was new, and it ran through the DI cartridge in the ~80 gallons.
bjohanson1234
.........
It sure does matter.
It will help us determine where the problem lies.
If you have a high TDS after your RO membrane, it would indicate the problem to be there. Either a punctured membrane, or it not seated properly.
So what are your TDS levels
Going into the unit
After the RO but before the DI
After the DI
Also, don't go just by the color of the resin. My resin turns color pretty fast, but the TDS out is still 0-2ppm Not going to change it until it creeps a bit higher.
It will help us determine where the problem lies.
If you have a high TDS after your RO membrane, it would indicate the problem to be there. Either a punctured membrane, or it not seated properly.
So what are your TDS levels
Going into the unit
After the RO but before the DI
After the DI
Also, don't go just by the color of the resin. My resin turns color pretty fast, but the TDS out is still 0-2ppm Not going to change it until it creeps a bit higher.
2XAl
Salt Addict
definitely don't change on color. I have one that's almost tar black that is still putting out 2 ppm. It started looking bad after the first couple days.
JohnVH
Reefer Madness
You really do need to test TDS of water going into the RO/DI. I had well water with the softener carbon blocks and all that stuff when I lived in the country. My RO/DI unit would go through membranes and cartridges like nobodies business. I had insanely high mineral content in my water even after going through the RO/DI unit my water was barely drinkable.
