denitrators

toddyp

Reefing newb
:bowdown: i have a ongoing nitrate problem in my tank for approx a year--i have a 90 gal live rock 100+ lbs a sump w/skimmer and UV sterilizer-refugium-i have tried every single method to lower these--i saw various articles by diff. suppliers about denitrators-in particular sulpher denitrators---does anyone have any experiance with these??? I have speny way way too much money on stuff i didn't need so i need some real results before i spend more---thanks---anybody want to buy some nitrates?
 
Snake oil is what most reviews say. They don't do what they say they do and are a waste of money. I have never tried one personally, but I've not heard good things.

First off, what are your nitrates testing at? Let's try to brainstorm some other ideas instead:

-How many fish do you have?
-What do you feed them (pellets, flakes, frozen)?
-How often/how much do you feed them?
-What kind of substrate do you have (crushed coral/sand)?
-Do you use bioballs?
-Do you use a canister filter, hang-on-back filter or wet/dry system?
-What kind of water do you use (tap/RODI)?
-Have you tried a different test kit?
-How often/how large are your water changes?
-Do you run a refugium with macroalgae?
-Do you have a protein skimmer? If so, what kind?
 
10 fish-i feed once a day-1 frozen cube(rinsed) some kelp flakes everycouple days-i hace a 20 sump w/seaclone 150? skimmer-no bio balls-just live rock-the water falls on the rock-goes over a baffle-gets skimmed-baffled-uv sterlizer-pumped back into tank.hang on side fuge-pumped water thru chaeto algae over fuji fuge mud thru live rock-into aqua.---i was doing 22-25 gals every other week-nothing--substrate is coral sand below aragonite 2" deep-tap water filter (this water has been tested and is nitrate free-i go to my LFS for the nitrate test and test it myself-wanna buy some nitrates?oh yeah---no3 is 220 ppm
 
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What kind of fish ARE those 10 fish?That may be your biggest problem.10 fish in a 90 is a pretty good load.
Not mention,your skimmer aint exactly got a reputation as being able to do its job.

I'm guessing that your current bio-load along with a sub-par skimmer is where your problems coming from.
 
1 yellow tang-4"
1-lawn mower blenny-4"
3-pajama cards(which i am willing to relocate)
1-neon goby-1.5"
1-firefish goby-1.5"
1-flame angel
1-manadrin
1-red thingy-2.5"
1-other butterfly fish to rid tank of aptasias(which incidentaly worked great)
oops that is 11
2 sally lightfoot crabs if they count
what size skimmer do you suggest
ok i'll give you the damn nitrates!
 
I'll trade you my calcium/alkalinity troubles for your nitrates anyday:mrgreen:

Heres my suggestion.
#1-Switch to either RO/DI or distilled water.
#2-Cut your fish load by at least half.
#3-Get a better skimmer.I dont a link at the moment,but look at the Octopus skimmers.They are supposed to be the best bang for the buck.
 
I think a kickin' skimmer will solve most of your nitrate problems IMO. That's exactly what I did to bring them down from 50 to 2 in 3 weeks, aside from the regular 10% water changes. Also I started dosing sugar 3/4 tsp a day, search reefcentral.com for carbon dosing, there's some interesting science to it, also seems highly debatable as to how healthy it is adding sugar/vodka/vinegar to your tank.
 
Here are what I see to be your problems:

- Your skimmer sucks. I think it's the worst "mainstream" skimmer on the market. Unfortunately, it's sold in a lot of stores, so a lot of people buy it. You basically bought a $120 powerhead. Keep the pump, throw away the rest of the thing. The SeaClone is an *okay* skimmer for a 35 gallon tank with 2 fish. But a 90 gallon tank with 11 fish? You may as well not have a skimmer at all. With that bioload, you really need to get a good skimmer, rated for double your tank size. The Octopus brand are the best on the market now, in terms of affordability.

- You have crushed coral substrate. Crushed coral particles are large enough to trap detritus and crap, and not small enough for your cleaner crew to keep clean. People with crushed coral often see nitrate problems. Removing the crushed coral and replacing it with aragonite sand is what you'd have to do to fix this, but that solution is tough to carry out, and when you disturb the crushed coral you end up releasing all that crap into the water column anyways. If that's what you want to do, then I believe getting rid of the crushed coral will really help. If you don't want to take the risk of stirring up that muck, you'll just have to find a way to remove the nitrates instead of fixing the cause. See my point about the skimmer above.

- Tap water. Okay, it may test nitrate free. But it probably is filled with heavy metals and phosphates -- compounds that a water conditioner cannot remove. Using tap water is one of the worst practices you can have when it comes to maintaining your tank. You really really really need to either start buying RODI water from the grocery store, Walmart or your LFS, or you need to buy an RODI unit to make your own. RODI units don't have to be expensive. I bet you've already spent at least twice as much trying to fix your nitrate problem than a decent RODI unit costs. My RODI unit was purchased from www.purewaterclub.com. It cost $60 + $40 shipping (5-stage, 100 gallons per day). Look into it. If your tap water isn't causing high nitrates, I bet it's causing other problems instead. Tap water is a huge no no for any saltwater tank.

- You feed flakes. Flake and pellet foods contain preservatives that lead to poor water quality (high nitrates and phosphates). Switch to frozen foods only. For your vegetarian fish, stick with frozen Emerald Entree, frozen Rod's Food for herbivores and dried seaweed sheets instead of the flakes.

- 220 ppm?!?! Are you sure something didn't die in your tank and you just haven't noticed? Did you ever, by chance, have a sea cucumber or any other animal that buries itself in the sand? If those things die in the tank while they are hiding out in the sand, forget about it -- your tank craps out. My nitrates have been that high before too, all due to a sea cucumber kicking the bucket. And if they die in the sand, it's pretty much impossible to get their bodies out, so they slowly release their toxins and rot into the water.

I think that's all :)
 
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I just wanted to add, I hope my post didn't come across as rude. If so, I apologize -- I didn't mean it that way. What am I doing up at 2:00 am anyways?!?! My significant other is out of town for the next week, so I guess I'm finding better things to do with all my new-found free time rather than sleep. Which means I can type and type and type and type and type and type...
 
i did not detect any rudeness at all ma'am--and i thank you for your answers---i have looked up the octopus skimmers that you both recommended and the NW-150 rated for 180 gals-is this big enough do you think?also-as for an RO unit-I know i can read up on them- but as long as you are up and typing,typing typing-what the heck- how do they work?
wanna buy some nitrates---and some dried flake food?
 
wanna buy some nitrates---and some dried flake food?

Hahaha! No thanks! My nitrates have been well above 250 on two separate occasions. I've had my share already; I don't need yours.

An RODI unit is basically a water purifier. It strips the water of all of its TDS (total dissolved solids/salts). Basically, it removes EVERYTHING that is not water. If you buy an RODI unit, you will need to also buy a TDS meter (they are cheap, I got mine on Ebay for $15). The RODI water hooks up to your sink (or washer, however you want to do it) and you can turn it on or off, and the water goes through it and is cleaned. It'll take the TDS of tap water (which, where I live, is 400+), and bring it down to less than 10, usually 0. Then, when you mix salt in to make your tank water, the salt replenishes only the good elements that you want in the water.

The RODI unit will remove heavy metals, phosphates, nitrates, calcium, etc.
 
i have looked up the octopus skimmers that you both recommended and the NW-150 rated for 180 gals-is this big enough do you think?

That skimmer would be perfect for you. If it's in your budget, then go for it. Octopus skimmers work very very well for their cost. I use one on my 240 (it's BIG). The NW-150 is in-sump only, so make sure the dimensions will fit inside your existing setup.
 
If you are good at DIY, you can make a carbon fitler out of your seaclone skimmer. I think about half the people in the hobbie have owned one of those P.O.S.
 
well i have a 20 gal sump-only because of space limitations-but the footprint of this octopus doesn't look that munh bigger than the seaclone---so i am gonna go for it-at 179.00 it is certainly cheaper then the denitrators i was looking at .and if it works-i will be eternally grateful!then-onward to an ro unit---i was hoping to someday get a tank the size of yours but if i ever did i would be living in it---well-i guess it is more protection from the elements than a cardboard box!
get your nitrates here!
 
Bifferwine I think you covered it fairly good. I would agree that the Oct skimmer is a need & the RO/DI unit is a MUST. I did want to add one thing. To help clean up the sand rather than replace it. One could invest in 1-3 of the fighting Conch's. Maybe even a few Nassirous (sp?) snails too. While this is not an over-night fix, it would aid in reducing his Nitrates.

And the fact that denitrators are NOT for saltwater systems and have no bussiness include in one. They are however good for ponds,lakes,water company's and maybe a freshwater tank.
 
there was a couple of diff. 150's one is 189 the other 269. which is the one?


The cheaper version is the needlewheel and the more expensive version is the recirculating needlewheel.The recirculating version keeps the bubbles suspended in the the chamber longer to trap,well protein.Either version will work,obviously the recirculating(DNW-150) is better.
 
ok--i shall go for the good one---get thee behind me nitrates!!!---how about UV sterilizers?are they necessary?if i dont need it I'll lose that to-going green in my own little way
 
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