Diatom Problems. Tried Everything

Jml32788

Reefing newb
I have a 50 gallon tank with 3 damsels, 20 snails, a handful of red/blue/white hermits and an emerald crab. My problem is that I have been battling Diatoms for a while now. I am running a HOB Protein skimmer as well as a HOB filter with 1 full unit of Chemi-Pure in it (only 3 weeks old). I preform weekly water changes with RO/DI water. I recently went on a business trip and decided it would be a good time to turn the lights off for a few days. The lights were off for 3 1/2 days and when I came home the Diatoms were gone for the most part. But 2 days later and they are back and worse than before. I've tried manually removing them by scooping them out but that is not helping. Everything in the tank is doing fine (Fish and Corals).

Nitrates are 0
Phosphates are also 0

I'll be leaving for Manhattan tomorrow and will attempt the lights out technique for 2 more days.

Note worthy: I recently lost a Watchmen Golby and never found his body. I pulled all of the rock out of my tank and still found nothing so I have to assume the crabs ate him. But maybe his dead body is in there and providing food for the Diatoms? I don't know...
 
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Are you sure they are diatoms? Diatoms are usually a problem in newly set up tanks, not well established tanks. Another member here had a problem with a dark colored algae on his sand that he just could not get rid of. I'm wondering if you are actually dealing with something other than diatoms...

What are your parameters?
 
I didn't take a picture before removing the majority of the "Diatoms". But in the places where it had built up a good bit there were small bubble being produced by the "Diatoms". I always thought that the bubbles being present meant it was Diatoms... Maybe I am mistaken on what this stuff is. Regardless, I want it gone. What other parameters do you need besides Phosphates and Nitrates (both are 0 or damn near 0)? Currently those are all I can test for.

Here is a couple pictures. This is NOT the worst of it.
 

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It grows mainly on the substrate and Is just now starting to spread to the rocks and glass. But always builds up on the substrate first.
 
Bubbles indicate red slime algae or dinoflagellates. Diatoms are dusty and don't usually cause bubbles. They also don't form "sheets" on the sand.

Do you see snot-like strands with bubbles in the strands? If so, that's a good indication that it's dinoflagellates. If they go away when the lights are off and come back when the lights turn on, that's another sign that they are dinoflagellates.
 
Then we shall call them Dinoflagellates (I thought they were more or less the same thing). Red Slim may also be present because the stuff I scrap of the glass is more of a "slime" than the stuff on the substrate which tends to end up looking like tiny tiny bushes if I leave it alone long enough.

I don't see snot like strands. I don't usually let it linger around too long so maybe it doesn't get a chance to produce the snot stuff. I do have a silk tube worm time critter that lets strands out of its tubes all the time though. Maybe I'm over looking the snot-like stuff because I'm used to seeing strands floating around occasionally.
 
Dinos are very different than diatoms. Diatoms are a normal part of a new tank and rarely return once they go away after the first time. Diatoms are harmless to livestock. Diatoms use up the silicates in your sand and water. Dinos are a much more difficult beast to get rid of. They are toxic and can kill your livestock if they eat it. Dinos can take over a whole tank and some people have torn down their tanks in frustration from dealing with them.

Ohhhh they are very different! :evil: (Coming from a person who has battled the dinos and lost two tanks in the process).
 
the stuff on the substrate which tends to end up looking like tiny tiny bushes if I leave it alone long enough.

That sounds like a completely different type of algae, perhaps a type of turf algae (which can also be a PITA to battle and get rid of). Have you tried adding a sea hare to your tank to eat through it? I think a few people here have had success battling the more challenging algaes with a sea hare.
 
Well this tank is about to meet the same fate as my last tank. Torn down, taken out to the garden and shot repeatedly (Different reason. I cracked the glass). I've dumped so much money into this to try and fix it. Its absurd.

Would a 75% water change do anything? I am getting pretty desperate.
 
That sounds like a completely different type of algae, perhaps a type of turf algae (which can also be a PITA to battle and get rid of). Have you tried adding a sea hare to your tank to eat through it? I think a few people here have had success battling the more challenging algaes with a sea hare.

I will look into picking one up. Though my LFS has a limited selection, but could probably source one for me if I pay a little more.
 
Ok where did you get your rocks? Seems silly but when I tried using some river rock...omg what a mess. This again happened recently to another member who used "questionable" rock. How is the flow in the tank? What is the length of the light cycle? Are you using a refugium?
 
I got my rocks from the a couple different LFS. I have 2 1200GPH powerheads in a 50 gallon tank. And the Light is on for about 6.5 hours.

I did lights out again for 2.5 days while I was in Manhattan and when I came back everything has seemed to improve. I decided at that time to do a 20% water change. There is still some Algea/Dinos on the sand bed that keep returning though.

My Nitrates and Phosphates are still reading 0.
 
i have recently dealt with that same i mean exact same issue, it was a result of over stock or over feeding in my case because i do not have much stock it was over feeding (yes i know shame shame) and i also got i can't remember the name right now but anyway i got some snails that burrow in the sand and cleaned that up rather fast. And flow was an important issue to.
 
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Great it shouldnt be the rock....are you using a refugium? Macro algae (cheto) is good for out competing the other algae. Phosphate tests are kinda useless, if you have a problem you cant tell because the problem is eating the phosphate. Good source water (rodi) lots of flow, a refugium, limiting added nutrients (over feeding) and a good cuc should get you on track...Remember nothing good happens fast...even fixes. It will take time.
 
I don't think flow is an issue for me. If I churn this water any faster I'm going to end up with a hurricane in the living room. I feed my fish once a day a small amount and they ALWAYS eat it all. If its not all gone in 90 seconds I scoop it out. I've been using RODI water since day one.

The problem I think is stemming from the blenny that died and was never collected.

I am not even sure we are dealing with Dinos at this point. Here are some pictures. They are the best I got.
 

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Yup thats the same stuff i just delt with it ended up being crap building up in my sand bed with is why i got nassarius snails to stir up the sand bed and get rid of the detritus, ( uneaten food, animal waste and what not), and 3 days later it was gone. plus water changes to.
 
Yup thats the same stuff i just delt with it ended up being crap building up in my sand bed with is why i got nassarius snails to stir up the sand bed and get rid of the detritus, ( uneaten food, animal waste and what not), and 3 days later it was gone. plus water changes to.

I have been considering doing away with the sand bed to be honest. Maybe I'll try that if this next lights out does nothing. Also I've been doing 30% water changes a few times now and it makes no difference. Maybe I should let it run its course? I also tried to get a Sea Hare but my LFS couldn't get it on his next shipment. Maybe next week.

Btw, I like your avatar. Gotta love Protoss.
 
ok on your next water change leave your lights off for about an hour before you change your water and leave them off while you are doing your water change, (if you are not doing that already) that algae floats on the top or most of it when the lights are out. and yup protoss are great
 
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