DIY fuge

BL1

BL1

.............
I'm trying to make some drawings of possible refug ideas but, I need to know how to set it up ... In he baffles do you want the chaeto to come first so it's getting all the nutirents from the tank. Or do you want the chaeto after the skimmer so that the pods in the chaeto aren't going through the skimmer and getting killed?
And I don't know the model offhand, I'll have to look later but, are the 266gph accella pumps that come with the nano cube strong enough to return the water back into the aquarium from the stand, or will I need to upgrade the pump too?
 
Here's a pic of my current 10g fuge and a 29g fuge I recently built for my 50g. For a 75g tank I would definitley upgrade to a higher gph pump. You're going to want a pump in the range of 500gph to 750gph at around 3'or4' of head. You always want a pump that can handle more flow than you need. That way you know it will move the right amount of water and if you have to slow it down you can use a ball valve in the return line. You neve want to choke the pump out by starving the water supply to it.


Picture091.jpg

Picture087-1.jpg

Picture010-2.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the pics guys. Unfortunately, the area that I'm working with won't even fit a standard 10g tank, so the actual tank itself will be custom. I have one shelf in the stand but can take it out if it will make things easier to fit. Here's my measurements (for the stand):
bottom: 17"H x 11.5"W x 15"D
top: 10"H x 11.5"W x 15"D

So, this is my first design, this design will utilize both shelves for sump and refug (if need be, I can change the height of the shelf to make things work):
DSCN0311.jpg


And here's my second design, this one has the in-flow and return ends on the same side since this will sit length-wise in my stand (the input and output hoses can both be on the back side of the stand this way.
DSCN0310.jpg


Any input would really be appreciated so that I can get started on this.
Thanks,
Brian
 
they look alright to me. its tough when you are working with limited space. i think as long as it will accomidate all the equipment and will flow properly you should be fine. you may not need that second air trap before your return pump. one piece cut a bit taller with something to catch the chaeto would work and save you some money on materials. and less headaches ( first design) if you are doing all acrylic i would put some silicone in the corners to make it water tight. it will save you a lot of trouble. glue then silicone for water tight. it will not hold the acrylic together though.
 
So, you think the first idea would be better? And, do I need to put the skimmer first or the chaeto? I've read different thing on different places
 
Thanks guys, I'm gonna go out tomorrow and pick up some acrylic from home depot and start working on it
 
honestly, you will probably learn the most from trail and error. looks like you have a good idea going. i would say go for. i look forward to seeing it come together.
 
Your ideas look good, but you have the baffels incorrect. The way you have them they will not stop any micro bubbles. You need to add a third one so the water can flow over it. Look at the pics for a reference on the baffels. That's a very important step.
 
i think it could work with two. the idea is that the bubbles as a gas are more positively boyant in the water so they will not "want" to travel down throught the baffels. however, a third one would allow less debris to make it through. i put three in my sump but i dont really see the point of it mechanicaly. everyone just says they need three at one inch apart. does anyone have a more scientific reason than what i can think of for having 3 baffels? :twocents:
 
You have the 3rd baffel to help stop the bubbles from flowing through. It slows down the flow and allows the bubbles to float back up between the 1st and 2nd baffel rather than just flowing right out the bottom. Plus when you have sand and LR in the 2nd chamber it will clog the space left on the bottom that's supposed to let the water flow through.
 
Last edited:
ok. the way i have my sump set up the main flow does not go through the fuge. there is no sand or anything to clog it. If you are goint through the fuge then the third baffel would make a dif.
 
+1 Hiker You should just add the 3rd baffle and make sure they are spaced at least 1 inch between them. I measured mine to narrow and bubble still get thru. There is a reason we don't use 2, it doesn't work as well.
 
I can change it for 3, that's the easy part. Unfortunately, HD and Lowe's have discontinued carrying the acrylic glue to fuse the sheets together. So, I have to order it online and wait for it to ship here. At least all the sheets will be cut to size by the time it arrives.
Also, I think it was Biff that mentioned it once, I have to use Silicone I on the seams right? Not, Silicone II?
 
i used the silicone on mine. you have you use quite a bit to insure the acylic holds in place. i would recommend you get the large tube
 
Well, I'm going to use this stuff called weld-on, it actually melts the two pieces of acrylic together. I just want to use the silicone as a little added insurance
 

Similar threads

Mike
We're Back!
Replies
0
Views
640
Mike
Mike
Dturner
Daniel's JBJ Advanced LED 28 gallon reef aquarium
Replies
6
Views
2K
Aquarian
Aquarian
homefry319
Homefry's 60g rimless cube
Replies
10
Views
2K
Washburn82
Washburn82
C
Higher flow but less microbubbles
Replies
5
Views
1K
Aquarian
Aquarian
Cathic
DIY $60 Sump
Replies
10
Views
2K
kbuser92
kbuser92
Back
Top