HeavyHittah
LivingReefs is like home
Anyone know any good sites for diy stands for a 75 gallon with exact measurements and materials so ill be able to price everything???
DIY stand for 75 gall
- Thread starter HeavyHittah
- Start date
hibye
Reef enthusiast
first get the tank the nu can measusre the lengths
RyanG
Reef enthusiast
You would be better off just designing one. That way you can decide how tall you want it
dannyboy
PLUHH
you need the measurements of a 75? I have 2 of them, 18.25 x 48.5. Use several cotes of polyurethane as salt water is very corrosive! My metal stand is already rusting to crap after 6 months.
bobby
I like to do bad things.
garf.org
ZOOT098
Reefing newb
i have plans i can email you with material lists and measurements, also has plans for a canopy
i just got done building mine for a 90 gallon
it cost me $108 and its all oak except for the subframing
drop me a message with your email
also since we are on the subject, i have heard recomendations about painting the inside of your canopy with epoxy paint, is this something you should do to the underside of your stand as well???????
i just got done building mine for a 90 gallon
it cost me $108 and its all oak except for the subframing
drop me a message with your email
also since we are on the subject, i have heard recomendations about painting the inside of your canopy with epoxy paint, is this something you should do to the underside of your stand as well???????
ZOOT098
Reefing newb
DIY Aquarium Stand
Just an intro more detailed plans follow
Stands follow the same basic philosophy as hoods do; their designs are mostly personal preference. Regardless of the aesthetic appeal though, the stand must be capable of hold large amounts of weight, and therefore, must be very well build. Figure 5.0.0 shows some basic stand designs and a migration pattern. Model A is simple, basic and Spartan. Model B builds on A by adding a solid top and shelf. C adds doors and D is the complete enclosure. Various levels of ornateness can be had for the doors and moldings. Only your imagination limits you.
The stand should be constructed of at least 2x4s. 2x4 side bars and 4x4 legs is good, but usually not needed for most applications. Also, screwing the wood together offers greater stability in the long run and allows the stand to be disassembled with little effort.
The most critical element in the stand construction is that it is sturdy and this can not be stressed enough. However, the stand must be level as well. If the tank rests on an uneven surface, pressure points will build and a crack most likely will develop. Any solid top stand can be enhanced by placing cardboard or some moderately flexible material under the tank. This will allow the tank to `settle` into place once it is filled. If something is placed under the tank, it should be under the entire tank body not just one side or corner, thus reducing the stress on the tank.
Model A is regularly offered in pet shops for $50 or more when in actually it costs about $10 to build. One final note on the construction, the wood should be dried. If the wood is damp during construction, it will dry and warp leading to uneven surfaces.
Other tips from a carpenter:
Some general recommendations: 1) Build a strong frame. After the frame is made you can attach plywood, molding, trim or whatever to make it look good.That is the way modern buildings are designed and built. 2) Overbuild it. Use more lumber than you think you need. Commerciallyavailable stands for 75's use one 2X4 at each corner. So my stand hastwo 2X4s as legs at each corner. Each pair is butted together like anangle iron. A tank over 4 ft. in length should probably have six legs. 3) Screw and glue. Don't even think about using nails for any part thatbears the load. Use large wood screws or bolts as Tony recommends alongwith glue for any important joint. Multiple screws at a joint are a goodidea. 4) Use lots of glue. If glue does not squirt out when you put the partstogether, you don't have enough. Also be aware that end grain soaks upglue. They will literally suck the glue out of the joint before it sets. The way I was taught to deal with this is to smear some glue on the end grain before putting the joint together. Let this sit for about 10-15 minutes. Then reapply glue as normal and put the thing together (with screws or bolts.) NOTE: this is only if you don’t plan on taking the stand apart in the future. 5) A good cordless drill (with a clutch) will make drilling all thosepilot holes and screwing in all those screws a whole lot easier. Thestructural part of my stand has about 70 screws in it. Imagine doingthat by hand. 6) Buy good lumber. If you talk to older carpenters, they will loudlylament the quality of lumber available today. You can find good stuff if you look around. Sight along each piece and evaluate how strait it is. Look at the grain. It should be relatively strait and travel the length of the board. Lumber breaks along the grain. So pieces with grain cutting across them are not nearly as strong. Large, loose knots are also bad. Small tight knots are OK. Go to several lumber yards and dig through the whole pile of lumber if you have to. 7) Build it right and it will be level. Making the stand level (andflat) really should not be that tricky. Having straight lumber isimportant. Make certain that every piece is cut to exactly the rightlength and that the cuts are square. Then assemble it carefully on aflat surface. You can check that the corners of a rectangle are square(90 degrees) by measuring the diagonals. They should be equal. Alsorealize that no matter how strong you build your stand it will have someflexibility. If it is very close to being flat, the weight of the tankand water will make it flat. Also, you'll hear stuff about usingstyrofoam under the tank to compensate for a stand that is not flat.That makes me feel queasy. Do that weight calculation again. All of that weight should be sitting firmly on the stand. If the stand is not flat, maybe you need a new stand. 8) Buy, borrow or rent a power miter saw. You really can rent this kindof equipment. It will make things much easier, faster and precise. There use to be carpenters that could cut a board square with a hand saw. They're all pretty much dead by now. Also, the guy at the Mega Hardware Depot isn't going to cut the wood as exactly as you should want it. Practice cutting on the same SIDE of your pencil mark. Yeah, it should be that exact. Remember what we said about getting the thing level? Please be very careful with power tools and wear protective goggles. 9) Don't be afraid to start over. If it isn't going well, use what youhave learned on the next try. Wood isn't that expensive. Think aboutthat weight. 10) You absolutely can build a stronger, better looking stand than theones they sell at the local pet store!
29 Gallon or similar tank
List of materials for a basic 29gal stand
2 - 8" 2x4s (if you get a 2x6 you only need 1 2x4)
1 - 8" 2x6 (if you want to, you can just use 2x4s)
1 - qt stain, and
1 - qt polyurethane varnish,
or paint
Box of exterior wood screws or Nails (not recommended for load bearing 2x4s- but you could nail plywood or trim on)
Optional:
2 - 8" 1x6s
1 - 4x8 sheet 1/2" plywood (good one side)
2 - pairs of hinges (for doors)
Use the DIY directions on page 5 but you can simplify a lot- you don’t need to support the stand with cross 2x4s unless you get close to a 50 gallon tank, then I would.
Use exterior wood screws, pre-drill the holes with a little smaller drill bit and counter sink the holes with a larger bit or countersink so the wood screws don’t stick up.
The measurements for a standard rectangle 29 gallon tank are 12 ½ wide by 30 ¼ long by 19 high. So you add 3/8 to 1 inch[1] to the width and length to make the top and bottom frames, BUT subtract the width of 2 2x4s (approx. 4 inches) for the cross pieces. I forgot to do this but you can just cut them again but it wastes time and a little bit of your 2x4s. See below on page 5 “DIY Stand Project”.
With my 29-gallon tank I dropped the bottom 2x4 to the ground and actually added another 2x4 on the outside to increase the footprint and make it more stable since I didn’t wrap it or add doors. You don’t need a top because the outer part of the tank is elevated and that is where all of the weight rests. I then painted it with oil based black paint and it looks nice.
I actually ended up using some MDF on non weight bearing sections, which I painted to seal when I ran out of 2x4s. This stand cost me $0 because I used all leftovers from my pantry project.
DIY 55 or 75 gal Tank Stand Project
-Cost: About $60 -
One of the big money saving DIY (Do It Yourself) projects is the tank stand.. The stand for a reef tank needs to support alot of weight so, don't cut corners on the materials needed for a sturdy tank stand.. The stand also needs to be large enough to house your sump and external pump (if applicable).. I use half the storage under my stand for my sump and pump and the other half for storing salt, kalkwasser, buffer, calcium chloride, reef carbon, phosphate sponge, back-up powerheads and test kits.. My wife likes most of this stuff stored out of sight :-)
"Good drawings are worth a thousand words"
Hint: When using a circular saw, cut your wood with the good side down to prevent splintering. Then sand and stain each piece before assembly.
DIY Aquarium Canopies
Most beginning aquarists are content with using the everyday Perfecto hood or no hood at all. However, as interest grows and you want to keep live plants or invertebrates, the need for a high quality hood and lighting system is greatly accented.
Hood designs boil down to personal preference in many cases and most all designs are functional for their needs. The requirements for a hood are that it can house the lighting of choice, withstand the environment (e.g., water, salt), it can be cooled if required, and be moved/opened on a regular basis. Also. the construction must be sturdybecause the hood will most likely be opened on a daily basis for tank maintenance. Because the design of a hood is so personal (different lighting systems, different requirements for space and size), a detailed design walk-through won't be given here. Rather, various designs will be given and one detailed design will be presented. The detailed design is of a fluorescent hood with a flip top. The design can be altered to include metal halide lamps and fan cooling if desired.
Below is depicted various designs that I have seen and heard about from other aquarists. These are not the only designs and certainly should not be thought of as the only approach to a hood design.
Design A is the basic flip top model. It has a base unit and the lights are attached to the top which opens for maintenance. Model B is similar to A, except it is split in two vertically and half of the hood flips open. In this case, the front half may be opened and rested on the back half. This has great advantages over model A, which needs to be supported while it is open. Model C and D are variations on commercial hoods. Model C is simply a piece of glass with two strip lights resting on top. It is simple and cheap, but offers little aesthetic appeal and it makes it very difficult to do maintenance. Model D is an illustration of the basic plastic commercial hood. Model E is similar to A, except the front panel flips forward instead of the top. This has the distinct advantage that the lamps do not have to be moved for daily maintenance (Model D also has this advantage).
One of the big money saving DIY (Do It Yourself) projects is the lighting canopy.. If you've priced ready made hoods for a reef tank, you've seen prices from $300 to upwards of $600.. If you have NO (Normal Output) flourescents, you can easily build this hood from 1x6s and use 1 3" fan in place of the 2 4" fans.. If you're using VHO (Very High Output) or PC (Power Compact) lights, you should build the hood out of 1x8s and use 2 3" fans for cooling.. If using MH (Metal Halide) lighting, you should build the canopy from 1x12s to allow room for the 2 4" fans and keep the Metal Halide bulbs 8" above the surface of the water..
"A Good Drawing is Worth a Thousand Words"
Hints: When using a circular saw, cut your wood with the good side down to prevent splintering..
Then sand and stain each piece before assembly..
Making the Lid: The length of the 1x10s used for the lid should be cut to 51 1/2" (or 1 1/2" longer than the rest of the hood) and you lay these out and screw 3-4 strips of 1x2 (inside or outside (your preference)) to make a one piece lid.. Then set the lid on the hood and leave a 3/4" overhang for the front and both sides and mark the back and rip cut the excess off the back.. Then add your hinges..
Wrapping things up: Now you add the top 1x2 trim boards to the top of the hood (front and sides) under the overhang of the lid..
When assembled, apply the epoxy paint to the inside and allow it to cure overnight.. Then apply 4 or 5 coats of polyurethane (inside and outside)..
Mount your lights and fire it up.. enjoy :-)
[1] This depends on personal preference—3/8 will give you a flush stand, 1 inch will give you approx. a ½ of stand wider than the tank. If you plan on wraping the top 2x4 with plywood (again personal preference) go with the smaller measurement of 3/8.
Just an intro more detailed plans follow
Stands follow the same basic philosophy as hoods do; their designs are mostly personal preference. Regardless of the aesthetic appeal though, the stand must be capable of hold large amounts of weight, and therefore, must be very well build. Figure 5.0.0 shows some basic stand designs and a migration pattern. Model A is simple, basic and Spartan. Model B builds on A by adding a solid top and shelf. C adds doors and D is the complete enclosure. Various levels of ornateness can be had for the doors and moldings. Only your imagination limits you.
The stand should be constructed of at least 2x4s. 2x4 side bars and 4x4 legs is good, but usually not needed for most applications. Also, screwing the wood together offers greater stability in the long run and allows the stand to be disassembled with little effort.
The most critical element in the stand construction is that it is sturdy and this can not be stressed enough. However, the stand must be level as well. If the tank rests on an uneven surface, pressure points will build and a crack most likely will develop. Any solid top stand can be enhanced by placing cardboard or some moderately flexible material under the tank. This will allow the tank to `settle` into place once it is filled. If something is placed under the tank, it should be under the entire tank body not just one side or corner, thus reducing the stress on the tank.
Model A is regularly offered in pet shops for $50 or more when in actually it costs about $10 to build. One final note on the construction, the wood should be dried. If the wood is damp during construction, it will dry and warp leading to uneven surfaces.
Other tips from a carpenter:
Some general recommendations: 1) Build a strong frame. After the frame is made you can attach plywood, molding, trim or whatever to make it look good.That is the way modern buildings are designed and built. 2) Overbuild it. Use more lumber than you think you need. Commerciallyavailable stands for 75's use one 2X4 at each corner. So my stand hastwo 2X4s as legs at each corner. Each pair is butted together like anangle iron. A tank over 4 ft. in length should probably have six legs. 3) Screw and glue. Don't even think about using nails for any part thatbears the load. Use large wood screws or bolts as Tony recommends alongwith glue for any important joint. Multiple screws at a joint are a goodidea. 4) Use lots of glue. If glue does not squirt out when you put the partstogether, you don't have enough. Also be aware that end grain soaks upglue. They will literally suck the glue out of the joint before it sets. The way I was taught to deal with this is to smear some glue on the end grain before putting the joint together. Let this sit for about 10-15 minutes. Then reapply glue as normal and put the thing together (with screws or bolts.) NOTE: this is only if you don’t plan on taking the stand apart in the future. 5) A good cordless drill (with a clutch) will make drilling all thosepilot holes and screwing in all those screws a whole lot easier. Thestructural part of my stand has about 70 screws in it. Imagine doingthat by hand. 6) Buy good lumber. If you talk to older carpenters, they will loudlylament the quality of lumber available today. You can find good stuff if you look around. Sight along each piece and evaluate how strait it is. Look at the grain. It should be relatively strait and travel the length of the board. Lumber breaks along the grain. So pieces with grain cutting across them are not nearly as strong. Large, loose knots are also bad. Small tight knots are OK. Go to several lumber yards and dig through the whole pile of lumber if you have to. 7) Build it right and it will be level. Making the stand level (andflat) really should not be that tricky. Having straight lumber isimportant. Make certain that every piece is cut to exactly the rightlength and that the cuts are square. Then assemble it carefully on aflat surface. You can check that the corners of a rectangle are square(90 degrees) by measuring the diagonals. They should be equal. Alsorealize that no matter how strong you build your stand it will have someflexibility. If it is very close to being flat, the weight of the tankand water will make it flat. Also, you'll hear stuff about usingstyrofoam under the tank to compensate for a stand that is not flat.That makes me feel queasy. Do that weight calculation again. All of that weight should be sitting firmly on the stand. If the stand is not flat, maybe you need a new stand. 8) Buy, borrow or rent a power miter saw. You really can rent this kindof equipment. It will make things much easier, faster and precise. There use to be carpenters that could cut a board square with a hand saw. They're all pretty much dead by now. Also, the guy at the Mega Hardware Depot isn't going to cut the wood as exactly as you should want it. Practice cutting on the same SIDE of your pencil mark. Yeah, it should be that exact. Remember what we said about getting the thing level? Please be very careful with power tools and wear protective goggles. 9) Don't be afraid to start over. If it isn't going well, use what youhave learned on the next try. Wood isn't that expensive. Think aboutthat weight. 10) You absolutely can build a stronger, better looking stand than theones they sell at the local pet store!
29 Gallon or similar tank
List of materials for a basic 29gal stand
2 - 8" 2x4s (if you get a 2x6 you only need 1 2x4)
1 - 8" 2x6 (if you want to, you can just use 2x4s)
1 - qt stain, and
1 - qt polyurethane varnish,
or paint
Box of exterior wood screws or Nails (not recommended for load bearing 2x4s- but you could nail plywood or trim on)
Optional:
2 - 8" 1x6s
1 - 4x8 sheet 1/2" plywood (good one side)
2 - pairs of hinges (for doors)
Use the DIY directions on page 5 but you can simplify a lot- you don’t need to support the stand with cross 2x4s unless you get close to a 50 gallon tank, then I would.
Use exterior wood screws, pre-drill the holes with a little smaller drill bit and counter sink the holes with a larger bit or countersink so the wood screws don’t stick up.
The measurements for a standard rectangle 29 gallon tank are 12 ½ wide by 30 ¼ long by 19 high. So you add 3/8 to 1 inch[1] to the width and length to make the top and bottom frames, BUT subtract the width of 2 2x4s (approx. 4 inches) for the cross pieces. I forgot to do this but you can just cut them again but it wastes time and a little bit of your 2x4s. See below on page 5 “DIY Stand Project”.
With my 29-gallon tank I dropped the bottom 2x4 to the ground and actually added another 2x4 on the outside to increase the footprint and make it more stable since I didn’t wrap it or add doors. You don’t need a top because the outer part of the tank is elevated and that is where all of the weight rests. I then painted it with oil based black paint and it looks nice.
I actually ended up using some MDF on non weight bearing sections, which I painted to seal when I ran out of 2x4s. This stand cost me $0 because I used all leftovers from my pantry project.
DIY 55 or 75 gal Tank Stand Project
-Cost: About $60 -
"Good drawings are worth a thousand words"
"List of materials for a 55 or 75 gal stand"
6 - 8" 2x4s
2 - 8" 2x6s
2 - 8" 1x6s
1 - 4x8 sheet 1/2" plywood (good one side)
2 - pairs of hinges (for doors)
1 - qt stain
1 - qt polyurethane varnish
6 - 8" 2x4s
2 - 8" 2x6s
2 - 8" 1x6s
1 - 4x8 sheet 1/2" plywood (good one side)
2 - pairs of hinges (for doors)
1 - qt stain
1 - qt polyurethane varnish
Box of exterior wood screws or Nails
Hint: When using a circular saw, cut your wood with the good side down to prevent splintering. Then sand and stain each piece before assembly.
DIY Aquarium Canopies
Most beginning aquarists are content with using the everyday Perfecto hood or no hood at all. However, as interest grows and you want to keep live plants or invertebrates, the need for a high quality hood and lighting system is greatly accented.
Hood designs boil down to personal preference in many cases and most all designs are functional for their needs. The requirements for a hood are that it can house the lighting of choice, withstand the environment (e.g., water, salt), it can be cooled if required, and be moved/opened on a regular basis. Also. the construction must be sturdybecause the hood will most likely be opened on a daily basis for tank maintenance. Because the design of a hood is so personal (different lighting systems, different requirements for space and size), a detailed design walk-through won't be given here. Rather, various designs will be given and one detailed design will be presented. The detailed design is of a fluorescent hood with a flip top. The design can be altered to include metal halide lamps and fan cooling if desired.
Below is depicted various designs that I have seen and heard about from other aquarists. These are not the only designs and certainly should not be thought of as the only approach to a hood design.
Design A is the basic flip top model. It has a base unit and the lights are attached to the top which opens for maintenance. Model B is similar to A, except it is split in two vertically and half of the hood flips open. In this case, the front half may be opened and rested on the back half. This has great advantages over model A, which needs to be supported while it is open. Model C and D are variations on commercial hoods. Model C is simply a piece of glass with two strip lights resting on top. It is simple and cheap, but offers little aesthetic appeal and it makes it very difficult to do maintenance. Model D is an illustration of the basic plastic commercial hood. Model E is similar to A, except the front panel flips forward instead of the top. This has the distinct advantage that the lamps do not have to be moved for daily maintenance (Model D also has this advantage).
DIY Canopy Project
-Cost: About $35 -
-Cost: About $35 -
"A Good Drawing is Worth a Thousand Words"
"List of materials for a 55 or 75 gal hood"
1 - 8' 1x12 (front, and both sides)
1 - 5' 1x8 (for back)
2 - 5' 1x10s (for top lid)
2 - 8' 1x2s (top trim and inside support)
2 - pairs of hinges (for the lid)
1 - qt White epoxy paint (for inside hood)
1 - pint stain
1 - pint polyurethane varnish
1 - 8' 1x12 (front, and both sides)
1 - 5' 1x8 (for back)
2 - 5' 1x10s (for top lid)
2 - 8' 1x2s (top trim and inside support)
2 - pairs of hinges (for the lid)
1 - qt White epoxy paint (for inside hood)
1 - pint stain
1 - pint polyurethane varnish
Then sand and stain each piece before assembly..
Making the Lid: The length of the 1x10s used for the lid should be cut to 51 1/2" (or 1 1/2" longer than the rest of the hood) and you lay these out and screw 3-4 strips of 1x2 (inside or outside (your preference)) to make a one piece lid.. Then set the lid on the hood and leave a 3/4" overhang for the front and both sides and mark the back and rip cut the excess off the back.. Then add your hinges..
Wrapping things up: Now you add the top 1x2 trim boards to the top of the hood (front and sides) under the overhang of the lid..
When assembled, apply the epoxy paint to the inside and allow it to cure overnight.. Then apply 4 or 5 coats of polyurethane (inside and outside)..
Mount your lights and fire it up.. enjoy :-)
A Simple Build-It-Yourself Aquarium Canopy
- Build a rectangular box slightly larger than your tank top (so that it will slip over the tank), using 3/4" x 4" boards (A and B). Note that B is horizontal. This provides space in the back for hang-on filters, and for water and air hoses to pass through.
- Attach short 3/4" x 3/4" square rods (C) to the inside of the box about 3/4" above the bottom of the A boards, and vertically from the B board so that the bottom of this rod reaches down to the same level as the bottom surfaces of the other rods. These rods will support the canopy on the tank top. (You may need to vary the distance from the bottom of the box to these rods, or add additional molding to the bottom of the box, to hide the waterline.)
- Cut a lid out of 5/8" plywood (D), slightly larger than the outside dimension of the box. Attach 1" molding (E) to the front and two sides of the the lid to block light leakage.
- Paint the inside of the box and bottom of the lid white to maximize light reflection (white paint is very close to a perfect reflector and is much simpler to apply than mirrored reflectors). Finish the other surfaces to your taste.
- Attach lid to box with hinges. Attach bulb clips (F) to the inside of the lid (two locking clips or four non-locking clips per bulb). Place canopy on aquarium and add light bulbs and prewired waterproof end caps (G)*.
[1] This depends on personal preference—3/8 will give you a flush stand, 1 inch will give you approx. a ½ of stand wider than the tank. If you plan on wraping the top 2x4 with plywood (again personal preference) go with the smaller measurement of 3/8.
ZOOT098
Reefing newb
here is the file i had hopefully it has the pictures with it unlike the one i copied and pasted
HeavyHittah
LivingReefs is like home
thanks zoot!! exactly what i was looking for. Im trying to use google sketchup to think up something.
HeavyHittah
LivingReefs is like home
and with garf.org what is meant by offset?? i know i want to my tank to sit in the stand about a half inch or so so would the offset need to be a half inch??
ZOOT098
Reefing newb
when you are looking at garf.org which diy stand are you looking at???
if you frame the stand to the exact dimensions of your tank, when you put your plywood on your tank will be inset from the edges of the stand 1/2" all the way around...or 3/4" depending on your plywood
if you frame the stand to the exact dimensions of your tank, when you put your plywood on your tank will be inset from the edges of the stand 1/2" all the way around...or 3/4" depending on your plywood
:bounce:Darn Zoo, and I get accused of my replies being long winded. It is not rocket science to build stand. An all glass tank could be easily support by as little as a 3/4" square piece of pine or spruce at each corner if you could keep the pieces upright. Lumber has huge amounts of strength under compression loads. That is why a commercial stand is generally just made of a plywood or particle board box with a 3/4' inch gluing strip in each inside corner. Two by four frames are gross over builds, but they are easy to build and are very forgiving of errors and therefore safe. Using water proof glue (resicorinal) and screws is best. Do not use pressure treated lumber. Try to use only plywood with exterior grade glues. Coat all inside surfaces with several coats of spar varnish, polyurethane, or epoxy paint. No stand of any length supporting an all glass tank needs center legs. A all glass tank can be entirely supported by its four corners. An acrylic tank however needs a smooth surface under its entire bottom so center legs would be useful as it would allow for a smaller depth crossbar running from side to side of your tank. Look at a quality kitchen cabinet. It would make a wonderful tank stand if it came in the right size. Styrofoam or closed cell foam on top of your tank stand is great. It should only be 1/4" thick. And yes try to build things square and level. But glass is also pretty forgiving an strong. There are a whole lot of tanks sitting on floors that are not level, and on stands that are not square or level. It is all a matter of degree. You should be more concerned about what size load your floor can handle than being as wound up as Zoo's write up has probably gotten you. No offense to carpenters, but standard stick frame carpentry is grossly over built and was designed so that the framing members would be close to gether to allow for the flimsy materials that would span across them, not because the number of framing members is needed to hold the expected loads. Most house loads would allow framing members be 8 to 12 feet apart. :twocents:
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ZOOT098
Reefing newb
LOL fatman, believe me i did not write all that
that was an article i copied and pasted
your right, it is very long winded and not the best design for sump space
but i figured it gives a pretty good foolproof plan to start a design
you are correct about the back though
when i built my stand i put a 3" x 3/4" digonal piece on the back to rack the stand.
that was an article i copied and pasted
your right, it is very long winded and not the best design for sump space
but i figured it gives a pretty good foolproof plan to start a design
you are correct about the back though
when i built my stand i put a 3" x 3/4" digonal piece on the back to rack the stand.
I need to learn how to do three dimensioanl drawing on AutoCAD software. Maybe this summer. I am not taking any classes or teaching any. And no labs, Yeah! I do have a neat job this summer. Working on site for the engineering firm that designed the plans for a fish hatchery being built in Fairbanks this summer. Actually construction was started last year. Above ground part of structure and mechanical system is to be completed this year. My only tools will be a lap top, pencil and paper though. That and a cell phone or two. Should be plenty of time left to teach myself three dimensional drafting though. It would be nice to put out system design drawings for tanks with closed loop circulation systems and back wall over flows. Yet alone plumbing systems and such. Should be able to obtain predrawn AutoCAD drawings from most manafacturers as AutoCad is pretty much the standard in this country for all areas of engineering, design and manafacturing. I think this site could benefit from some such drawings.
