how much salt per how many ppm difference?

poksal

Well? .. I AM trying
So is there a calculator, chart, or something that will help determine how much salt to add to raise the reading on the refractometer one ppt, based on X gallons?

OK... yeah... no salt is zero and about 1/2 cup is 35 ppt... I get that.. I'm just lazy today and am looking for one already done.
 
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So is there a calculator, chart, or something that will help determine how much salt to add to raise the reading on the refractometer one ppm, based on X gallons?

Let me know if ya find one!! I think I figured out my Brute can. I will see if it works next time I make RO/DI water. Up to the ledge I put in 10 coffee cups of salt. It was too much. I will try 8 coffee cups next time. Just hope I don't lose that coffee cup....I only have one of that particular kind!!
 
Let me know if ya find one!! I think I figured out my Brute can. I will see if it works next time I make RO/DI water. Up to the ledge I put in 10 coffee cups of salt. It was too much. I will try 8 coffee cups next time. Just hope I don't lose that coffee cup....I only have one of that particular kind!!


According to most salt mixes you add about 1/2 cup per gallon. Now, if no one chimes in with an already Excel sheet or chart, I'm going to set and work out a calculator in Excel to do how much per one ppt (on the right side of the retractometer scale) salt to add per gallon of mix. Or more to the point how much salt to add to correct from what you just read on the refractometer.
 
There probably is a chart somewhere. But, in our own tanks and holding containers, I'll bet that we will be able to tweek them pretty quickly with a little practice.
 
I have made the Excel sheet & tested it. It is just little guy and is protected so you can't hurt it.

It ask for the amount of salt your manufacturer mixing instructions require,

How many gallons your tank and sumps are, (you can input how much change water you are making instead)

What your refractometer reads the current ppt mix as.

Defaults to 35 ppt being the standard,

.. returns how much salt you need to add to your tank...(or change water)

You are on your own as to... by what ever means you do that AND... how accurate your actual gallons of tank and sump are... (that's less your LR)

.. as a disclaimer: is a ref for you to use at your own risk.

PM me and I will send it to whom ever... I will need an e-address as I can not up load an Excel sheet to this forum. ...Tell me what version of Excel you are running...


OH.. dauh.. do we have a PM system on this forum???

-randy-
 
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Sounds like you're ahead of me. Great work! I'd love to see it!

So.... how do we make that available??? that is the new question... moderators!

..I'd make my Excel sheet for logging testing with color changes according to if it is in the brackets available too.. if I knew how.
 
I found the Private Message section but have no clue how that sucker works! ????

So, I guess you click on a avatar and it lets you PM a message to them.. so .. if you wish click on my little fox kit over there and PM me your e-address with Excel version & I'll send you the Excel sheet.
 
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I just make saltwater at 1.030 if I need to raise it and 1.020 if I need to lower it, then dose it to the sump slowly. When it gets back to where I need it I just dump the rest and let my ATO go to town.
 
OK let's try this up-load.. this is a zip so you have to unzip it to your system.
 

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I just make saltwater at 1.030 if I need to raise it and 1.020 if I need to lower it, then dose it to the sump slowly. When it gets back to where I need it I just dump the rest and let my ATO go to town.


That works.. but if some are like me.. I have to have numbers to work with... LOL..

So this way I can see how much salt I need to add.. and dissolve it into a microwave warmed glass of RODI and dose it.. same results... I just don't have waste... errr.. um.. I shouldn't.
 
Add one cup of salt to one gallon of water and check the salinity, and use it as a conversion factor for however much you want to make.
 
Add one cup of salt to one gallon of water and check the salinity, and use it as a conversion factor for however much you want to make.

well, that is about what I did... but based on 1/2 cup... and but with math. :Cheers:
 
I just make saltwater at 1.030 if I need to raise it and 1.020 if I need to lower it, then dose it to the sump slowly. When it gets back to where I need it I just dump the rest and let my ATO go to town.


Ok.......I can't stand it any more!!!! What is ATO???!!!!!! :frustrat:
I've seen it used a gazzillion times.....
 
Ok.......I can't stand it any more!!!! What is ATO???!!!!!! :frustrat:
I've seen it used a gazzillion times.....


Automatic Top Off.. is when you have a method that fills your RODI into a small tank from a low level to a high level (mine fills from almost empty to just over 2.5 gallons) then that tank feeds the sump, usually where your main pump is because that compartment is the one that has the change of level from evaporation, to a specific level adding small amounts as required to account for that evaporation.

The reason for the small tank that feeds the sump is to avoid RODI short cycling. Short cycling is when your RO membrane is turned off and on frequently. Each time it is switched on there is a small amount of less healthy water at the start. So you want to cut that down to less often. So we fill a tank to have less of that lower grade water per volume, the bigger the better but with all the other reactors, sumps, and refuges the space gets tight and that is the exact reason mine is 2.5 gallons.

Then your sump evaporation level can be maintained to a fairly tight tolerance by a simple level device because short cycling is not a factor from the RODI fill tank.

...are you sorry you asked??

-randy-
 
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Automatic Top Off.. is when you have a method that fills your RODI into a small tank from a low level to a high level (mine fills from almost empty to just over 2.5 gallons) then that tank feeds the sump, usually where your main pump is because that compartment is the one that has the change of level from evaporation, to a specific level adding small amounts as required to account for that evaporation.

The reason for the small tank that feeds the sump is to avoid RODI short cycling. Short cycling is when your RO membrane is turned off and on frequently. Each time it is switched on there is a small amount of less healthy water at the start. So you want to cut that down to less often. So we fill a tank to have less of that lower grade water per volume, the bigger the better but with all the other reactors, sumps, and refuges the space gets tight and that is the exact reason mine is 2.5 gallons.

Then your sump evaporation level can be maintained to a fairly tight tolerance by a simple level device because short cycling is not a factor from the RODI fill tank.

...are you sorry you asked??

-randy-


LOL!! Thanks Randy! No.....I'm not sorry I asked. Great description. I just got a RO/DI unit last week and somewhere on this forum I learned that the first water out of it probably isn't good quality. I've been letting mine run for 3 minutes before collecting (on the flow setting) and 3 minutes after collecting. So, it made perfect sense to me. You sure are a thorough guy!
 
LOL!! Thanks Randy! No.....I'm not sorry I asked. Great description. I just got a RO/DI unit last week and somewhere on this forum I learned that the first water out of it probably isn't good quality. I've been letting mine run for 3 minutes before collecting (on the flow setting) and 3 minutes after collecting. So, it made perfect sense to me. You sure are a thorough guy!

And.. it drives my wife nutz!
 
A lot of systems come with a membrane flush kit. I highly recommend getting one if you do not already have one. It flushes out the nasty from the membrane, with the flip of a switch.
 
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