Ich outbreak overnight?! PICTURES!!

I have seen this scenario getting played out more and more these days. Since it looks like you are going to loose your fish (sorry about that one) the advise I would give you is to take the opportunity during your tanks fallow period to get the water quality in tip top shape with water changes, finalize your aquascapeing and equipment set up. Get a good quality light fixture if you dont already have one and change the tanks focus to corals and have a few inexpensive fish species to feed the corals and then forget about fish otherwise.

Here is the problem with fish. First there expensive. There dirty, and as you have seen can be suseptable to parasite out brake. Depending on the LFS they are either copper doseing willy nilly either underdoseinng leaveing the parasite intack or over doseing causeing internal damage especially in tangs and angles, or like your average petco just letting the tanks stay parsite exposed and hopeing they dont piss off to many of there customers.

You can attempt to QT and or preventatively treat every addition to the tank includeing inverts and coral but over time this becomes impractical for the average hobbyist and it only takes one slip up to expose hundreds of dollars of fish to the type of wipe out you just encountered.

Understocking with a few inexpensive species has its benefits. First you can stop worrying about parsite out brakes. The inexpensive fish are cheap becasue they are them most resistent to these conditions and the novice onlooker is not going to know if you have a 10 dollar fish or a 100 dollar fish. If the worse does happen you are not out a but load of money. Water quality will be much easier to maintain and as your corals grow out they can be traded fragged or sold off and new corals/invert additions can be made without lengthy QT.

AT this point I consider my tanks coral gardens and the fish an after thought of sorts. Yes it is still difficult when I run across that stunning aperently robust fish species at the LFS but I try to keep in mind that the price tag on it is equal to a five gal bucket of salt mix or more, a third of a new skimmer, months worth of filter media, the replacement cartradges for my ro/di etc. etc.

But then again thats just me; I could be wrong.
 
I have seen this scenario getting played out more and more these days. Since it looks like you are going to loose your fish (sorry about that one) the advise I would give you is to take the opportunity during your tanks fallow period to get the water quality in tip top shape with water changes, finalize your aquascapeing and equipment set up. Get a good quality light fixture if you dont already have one and change the tanks focus to corals and have a few inexpensive fish species to feed the corals and then forget about fish otherwise.

Here is the problem with fish. First there expensive. There dirty, and as you have seen can be suseptable to parasite out brake. Depending on the LFS they are either copper doseing willy nilly either underdoseinng leaveing the parasite intack or over doseing causeing internal damage especially in tangs and angles, or like your average petco just letting the tanks stay parsite exposed and hopeing they dont piss off to many of there customers.

You can attempt to QT and or preventatively treat every addition to the tank includeing inverts and coral but over time this becomes impractical for the average hobbyist and it only takes one slip up to expose hundreds of dollars of fish to the type of wipe out you just encountered.

Understocking with a few inexpensive species has its benefits. First you can stop worrying about parsite out brakes. The inexpensive fish are cheap becasue they are them most resistent to these conditions and the novice onlooker is not going to know if you have a 10 dollar fish or a 100 dollar fish. If the worse does happen you are not out a but load of money. Water quality will be much easier to maintain and as your corals grow out they can be traded fragged or sold off and new corals/invert additions can be made without lengthy QT.

AT this point I consider my tanks coral gardens and the fish an after thought of sorts. Yes it is still difficult when I run across that stunning aperently robust fish species at the LFS but I try to keep in mind that the price tag on it is equal to a five gal bucket of salt mix or more, a third of a new skimmer, months worth of filter media, the replacement cartradges for my ro/di etc. etc.

But then again thats just me; I could be wrong.

I do see where you're coming from, and I appreciate your input. Right now the firefish, and scooter blenny are perfectly happy in their 20g tank. The sleeper goby seems to be clearing up, and is moving around a lot more, as well as breathing easier. I'm not sure if i mentioned it, but i switched over to hyposalinity treatment, instead of the copper. The copper treatment was just stressing everyone out too much.

I know it is a lot more tedious, and time consuming, plus will take a lot longer, but I just want to do whatever will be best for the fish. I know its only about $30 worth of fish between the three, but they were the first ones in the tank, and I do not want to lose them.

I am considering going with a reef tank in the future. I was planning on getting rid of the lion... I wish he wouldnt have gone that way, but what happened happened. If someone can look over my list of equipment, and tell me what I need to buy, or upgrade, that would be great.

My equipment consists of:

90G 5' long acrylic tank. 60x18x18.
Octopus HOB 800S skimmer
Marineland C360 canister filter
2 48" Single Tube Flourescent light fixtures(I have a feeling those need upgraded)
2 koralia 1 powerheads
2.5g CPR in tank refugium
2 300W heaters

Livestock:
100+lbs of cured live rock
90lbs live sand
40+ various small hermit crabs
40+ various small snails
2 large turbo snails
1 Coral Banded Shrimp
1 Cleaner Shrimp
1 Sally Lightfoot
2 Emerald Crabs
1 Pencil Urchin
1 Firefish
1 Scooter Blenny
1 Yellow Headed Sleeper Goby
 
get rid of the canister filter, upgrade the lights to a good set of t-5's with independent reflectors, and get stronger koalia powerheads if you wanna keep SPS. also toss the coral banded shrimp
 
You are right, your lights will need to be upgraded. T5s or metal halides are what you need for a 90 gallon reef tank.

You may want to get rid of the canister filter. They can create nitrate problems, and corals are sensitive to even low levels of nitrates.

Even for a fish only tank, you need a lot more flow than you have. Two Koralia 1's are good for a 20 gallon tank, but not for a 90. If I were you, I'd look into getting three or four Koralia 3's.

Your skimmer should be okay, provided you keep your bioload reasonable and keep up with water changes.
 
You will need more water movement. More powerheads would help try the 3s 0r 4s koralias. A couple of those and some new lights and you should be set. You can probably get rid of the canister filter too.
 
I know it is a lot more tedious, and time consuming, plus will take a lot longer, but I just want to do whatever will be best for the fish. I know its only about $30 worth of fish between the three, but they were the first ones in the tank, and I do not want to lose them
Great attitude! You ARE doing the right thing!

I don't want to start preaching the goods of a qt, but I think you may have a little different outlook now when buying a new fish in the future. If you (not you personally, but anyone really) takes 2 weeks to put a new fish in qt, you have a great chance of catching any problem that might lead to bigger problems in the display. Usually if a fish has an external parasite problem, you will see it in 2 weeks.
As far as the theory of stress in a qt, I think a yellow tang, for example, would be under alot less stress alone in a 20g qt with pristine water, than it was in the lfs in probably not the best water quality and jammed in a 40g breeder with 5 or 10 other tangs.

And as everyone else already mentioned, better lighting (either T5 or MH) and more circulation for the upgrade. Good Luck. :)
 
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