Ick (Cryptocaryon) is almost always present in an aquarium and infects fish that are in poor health or have had a recent infection that has temporarily left them without certain immunities. Ick can soon become visible on a fish if the fish's natural resistance is weakened from shock, unsuitable water conditions, over crowding or an improper diet. a fish that has been recently added to the tank can also be a carrier of ick. The best way to prevent ick from occuring is to maintain optimum water conditions, provide a proper diet, and allow a two week quarantine for new additons before placing them in the main tank. - The life cycle of ick is usually three to five days, during which time it releases itself from the fish and floats to the bottom of the tank. at this stage the parasite reproduces by cell division. the new juvniles number from 100 to 1000 and then free swim in search of a new host. it is during this period that the proper medication can kill the juveniles before they find and infect a new host. in other ick infestations the disease may be covered by fish mucus or skin, and thus, will repopulate on the same host fish. -If treatment is started early enough the fish usually can be cured of ick. the key is to quarantine the fish before the juvenile spores are released into the main tank. - A fish that has contracted ick will generally have a few small white dots on the fins or body. as the disease spreads, the fish will have the appearnce that it has been sprinkled with salt. other symptoms of ick may include the fish scratching against the gravel, rapid breathing, cloudy eyes, cloudy fins and or some fin deteriation. - Dont confuse ick with Amyloodinium. ick usually has distinct individual pin head sized white dots. Amyloodinium spots are smaller and clustered closer together, which gives the dusty or velvet appearance. Dwarf ick reporduces at one third to one half of the adult size and can be easily confused with Amyloodinium. - The fish should be treated in a separate hospial tank. medicate the hospital tank with a proper marine medicine such as malachite green, aureomycin, benzaldehyde, quinine hydrochoride, or quinine sulfate. Follow all manufacturers instructions. turn off all the aquaium lights and keep the hopital tank as dark as possible. increase aeration to ease breathing problem, and increase temperature slowly to about 85 degrees, at a rate of one degree every five hours. maintain these conditions throughout the treatment period ( at least 10 days). once treatment is completed filter with carbon and start lowering the temperature at one degree per 5 hours until you reach the main tank temp. move fish back to main tank as if a new arrival and acclimate as usual. hope something here helps.