Im still here

sagent3000

sagent3000

Reefing newb
i have not forgotten about you guys i am almost ready for the set up i have finished the sump so its ready to go. i have 90 lbs of agranite(sp?) live sand coming.

my last couple of questions

1. does my live rock need to be in during the curing process and i will be using the one with the shrimp from the store the moderator suggested

2. does anybody know about these power compcats
http://cgi.ebay.com/JEBO-48-220W-55...ryZ46314QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
if these are no good can anyone suggest a light that will work for my tank (i want live rock, soft and hard corals) i would like to stay under 100 for the light


thanks for the help
 
If you plan on keeping sps, those lights won't be enough. You would want t5's at the least or else metal halides. t5's would work for sps provided they are placed near the top half of the tank. I have seen some gorgeous sps tanks with t5 lighting. Unfortunately I am unaware of any lights strong enough for sps under 100 dollars. If you find some though let me know.
 
I would run all of your equipment during curing. Run your sump, skimmer, and whatever else you have. It will not only help keep levels down during curing but will also give you a chance to get used to your equipment and get your skimmer dialed in before adding fish and corals. Also, the live rock needs to cure, so I would put it in your tank provided there is no livestock in it.
 
see now you have me all confused i don't have a skimmer i have a wet/dry sump do i still need a skimmer with that? did you look at the link i gave for new lights tell me if those will work thanks for the help
 
The hologen lights are not acceptable for marine use. you will need as previously mentioned a T-5 setup or a metal halide setup with some supplement fluorescents. you willneed to research the light situation a bit more for your system. 1st decide exactly what type of coral you will put in the system and get the light system that will be adequate for the most light demanding coral you plan on putting in.

on the live rock. if you do not have a protien skimmer do not put the live rock in to start. you can start your cycle with the wet dry and when you get ready to put in a skimmer you can add the live rock a few days after the skimmer is up and running. otherwise you will be doing large water changes and basically fighting the cycle battle. hope some of this helps and makes since. if not post and we will try and help more. good luck. you can also contact me by e mail or private message if need be for specifics. remember that there is always more than one right way to do things depending on who you talk to so do not be discouraged as several different approaches will work. just go slowly and research and be comfortable with your approach so you do not waste finances buying equipment that will just have to be replaced. good luck again and let me know if I can be of any help. other advice given above is good advise. my thought is incorporate a protien skimmer and add the live rock and you will not need the shrimp as the rock will jump start your system. let us know what you intend to do and read the aricles forum as there is a lot of information there to help you. I will be posting more on setups in the near future.
 
do you know of a DIY drop in chiller i saw the one for the in line but i want a drop in

also i there a DIY MH so i cam make the lights?

and from your response are you saying that if add the cured live rock then i don't need the shimp
 
There are many sources for chillers. if you check out marine depot, or the one of the sponsers of this web site you will find chillers. the cost for your size of system should be at least a 1/5 hp. and cost does'nt vary much around 600 or so new. so maybe you could find a used one for less but be careful on used equipemnt. I dont remember where on the site but i did post a diy chiller series of details using a small bar type refrigerator. check out the photo gallery and maybe some one reading this post knows where it is located and will post the location for you. ill also look but will be this evening.

on the live rock, if it is cured and truly live (living animals, sponges etc on it) there will be some die off when you add it to the system so initially do not add the shrimp. add the rock and test for a week every other day or more and see if you start to go through a cycle spike. amonia, nitrite, etc. if so the shrimp is not needed, if not in a week then your rock is probably not live and you can add a shrimp then and repeat the testing for a couple weeks. go slow and the 1st additions should be your clean up crew when there is enough food for them i.e. algae, etc. hpe this helps.
 
how deep is your tank. if not over 20 inches deep and if you use at least 2 sets/units you may get by, hard to say if it will be enough. but probably a reasonable place to start if you do not want to use Metal Halide, then this will be the best you can get. if there is room and you can get 3 units over the tank that is even better. hope this helps. good luck.
 
For small polyped stony corals metal halide is the best supplemented with some atinic and 6.5K florescent. i will try and post an article on lighting to help you with this issue with enough informatiion that you will be able to decide which is best for you.
 
i HAVE POSTED SEVERAL ARTICLES ON LIGHTING. HOPEFULLY WHEN YOU ARE DONE REVIEWING THOSE ARTICLES YOU WILL HAVE A BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF LIGHTING IN GENERAL AND BE ABLE TO MAKE THE PROPER DECISION FOR YOUR SYSTEM. IF NOT POST AND WE WILL TRY TO FURTHER HELP YOU. GOOD LUCK AND THANKS FOR THE QUESTION.
 
Diy Chiller 1 OF 5

FOLLOWING ARE SOME PICS FOR A DIY CHILLER. HOPE THIS HELPS. THE PICS ARE SUBMITTED IN REVERSE SO START WITH PAGE 5 AND WORK TO PAGE 1 SORRY FOR THE REVERSED ORDER

diychiller_833376.jpg
 
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