Jayhawker's build

[Jayhawker]

I started this project 3 months ago and finally have water in today. :bounce: One of my goals to start out was to build as much as I could, so I did a lot of reseach, planning, designing and building. So for I am happy with the result. I am starting out with a FOWLR and after I have been able to maintain good water parameters for a long enough period of time want to add corals.

I started out with a predrilled 75g all-glass tank. I custom build stand pipe and return lines. I then built a custom oak stand.

I am still working out the design for a custom canopy to match.

I also built the wet/dry/refugium out of a 20g L tank. I drilled the side of the tank for plumming of an external pump(little giant). I have also added a 400 watt heater and a protein skimmer(i got this one free, I haven't settled on a final design for the one I am planning on building yet). In the refugium I am adding 15lbs of live sand and 10 lbs of live rock. I also have 3g of bio-balls that I plan on removing once I have established enough live rock. After testing I am cycling 628 gph

I did all the plumbing and tested for leaks, luckly only one very small leak in the return line that was fixed by a loose fitting. I then added 80lbs of base rock and 100lbs of live sand. I have 4 internal pumps moving water around and through the rocks. This is a pic right after filling with water.

24 hrs later and a little rearranging of the rocks

right now I have 2 24" coralife 50/50 t-5 strip lights. I also have a 100gpd RO/DI unit and I am using Instant Ocean salt. I am planning on going to the LFS today to pick up some live rock to seed all of the base rock with. Still deciding on what fish I am going to add, most likely won't decide untill it's about done cycling.

Current additions I am still working on:
custom protein skimmer
Custom Canopy with Metal Halide lighting
automatic top off

I will post new additions as I finish them. Any comments or suggestions would be helpful.

 

[Bifferwine]

Wow, it looks like you are really on your way. Fantastic job, and it's great to see you did so much research.

Good choice to buy live rock next. If you buy uncured, it will probably cycle your tank for you. That will give you a few weeks to think about your next move. I recommend around 2 lbs of rock per gallon.

 

[Jayhawker]

Went to the LFS today and picked up 12lbs of live rock to seed all of my base rock. I think I got a pretty good deal, I got it for $4lb and was able to pick out my own rock. :bounce:

I do have one question though check out the pic with the green/white rock. Does anyone know what this is, it is hard and has tiny little points all over it. The other side is a dark red and purple like the rest of the rock. Is this ok or do I need to get this out of my tank. Thanks

 

[yote]

Awesome job.
I like it.

Its kinda hard to tell from the pic of that rock.But its possible that its coralline algae.

 

[reeffreak]

Great start on your system!
It looks like a nuisance algae.I would scrub it clean with an old toothbrush.Tiny little points describe a type of turf algae to me.

 

[jhnrb]

Congrats on your buildout. keep us posted.

 

[Jayhawker]

I started the cycling the tank a couple of weeks ago using some live rock, live sand, and 2 frozen shrimp. The ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels all rose and fell again. The cycle was pretty short, but I also used "Cycle" to help get the bacteria levels up. I added a 2- 3 stripe damsels, a few snails and crabs. I am watching the levels close, thinking the cycle might start again, but after 4 days, no rise in ammonia levels. here's a couple of pics of my new additions.

 

[fatman]

A few questions if you do not mind. Your wet dry filter media is above the water line isn't it. I can not tell for sure by the picture. The media should be out of the water with water dripping or flowing over it, drip oping is preferred. Is your skimmer receiving tank water as raw as you can provide it. A skimmer is a more efficient remover of particulates, as well as a remover of dissolved organic compounds and should be fed raw tank water if possible compounds. If it were me I would put the skimmer in the left compartment where the water feeds in. I would feed the skimmer from the far left compartment and exit the skimmer into the second compartment where I would put the wet dry media. I would use the third compartment for a pump return only with all return from the first to left compartments and the refugium flowing into it. As it is set up you either need to raise your filter media out of the water or lower the water level in the second compartment so that the filter media in the first compartment is not submerged. I like the stand. Is that outer skin and the doors all solid Red Oak? What did you think about drilling a glass-hole? A lot of people seem afraid to attempt drilling their tanks. My tanks, and those I set up and maintain (except two traditionalist's tanks) are all full of glass-holes with no power heads or overflow towers.

 

[jhnrb]

nice start. keep the build thread going. lots of pics please.

 

[Jayhawker]

answer to sump questions. The water level in the picture is from when I first filled it and I have adjusted the water level so all of the filter media except the last 1/4" to 1/2" is above the water line. The protein skimmer is feeding from the far left(however, it is after it goes through the bio ball) and returns to the left chamber. The center chamber is only the pump return chamber, the protein skimmer itself just sits in there for now. The DT drains to both the left champer and at a much slower rate to the refuigum, then both flow to the center to be returned to the tank. After I have enough well established live rock i plan on removing the bio-balls and then the left chamber will just house the protein skimmer and heater. I took the tank to the local glass shop to have it drilled, they only charged me $5 which is a lot cheaper than buying the bits to do it myself. The skin on the stand is 1/4" red oak plywood. The inside frame is standard 4x4's and 2x4's, but the doors and the rest of the outside is solid red oak including all trim. It cost a little more for the red oak, but I think the end result was worth it, and I only have less than $200 in material for the stand.

 

[fatman]

I have seen oak veneered particle board commercial tank stands, but always white oak. :mrgreen: I really like your red oak stand as I am originally from Missouri where there is a lot of Red Oak. Alaska's only hard wood is Birch, which is very drab. I have a hand built solid white oak stand, all 3/4" which took $420 in materials plus hinges. Red oak up here in Fairbanks, Alaska would have cost me over $700 for just the one tank stand. The bottom inside and partial back is 3/4" oak plywood. I took over two years getting the materials together and building mine for a 120 gallon tank. It has floating raised panel doors and I used resicorinol water proof glue through out, plus stainless steel screws and a few stainless steel brads. I did most of the work in a military arts and crafts shop's wood shop. That is one of the nice things about working with a lot of military people. They take me into military facilities as a guest. Next time though I will build more along the lines you have built. :frustrat: It is very hard to convince people "I had to do it" when I give them that as a reason why I put so much time, effort and money into an aquarium stand.

 

[LionFish]

Everything looks great Jayhawker keep the pic's comming

 

[Jayhawker]

New addition!!:^:
I added a new new Coral Beauty Angel fish last week approx 2 1/2" to 3". The pic is not the best, but kind of a cool shot. Looks like he is posing, lol

I also have put together equipment for a 10 gal. quarintine/hospital tank, and was wondering what the opinion is on adding water in it for quarinting new fish. Should I use fresh water, water from my DT or a combination? It's a 10gl with a heater and a CPR backpack 2 protein skimmer/filter for the filtration on it. I was also wondering if most people would suggest sticking with the shredded plastic for filter media or switching to bio-balls, or if I should just pull some live rock from the sump while I am using it. I plan on doing a min. of 50% water changes every other day. The coraline algea is also starting to spread to the base rock and seems to be increase more and more every day. I also plan on changing out the bio-balls in the sump with live rock rubble. I am having issues keeping the Nitrate below 20 and from most of what I read this should help, any opinion? Also what does any one think of nitrate sponges? I am doing 20" water changes every 10-12 days

thanks

 

[Bifferwine]

It doesn't really matter what water you use for the QT. Water from your display tank will have bacteria already established in it, but if you are going to be doing large, frequent water changes (which usually need to be done in a QT) the bacteria are just going to get thrown out quickly anyways.

I also don't think it matters if you use shredded plastic or bioballs, they both work the same way.

Replacing bioballs with live rock will help with the nitrates. Don't change them out all at once though, do 1/3 at a time so that you don't cause a spike in your tank.

Nitrogen sponges take several weeks to start working and even then, aren't that effective. I have used both the SeaChem and Kent Marine brand nitrate sponges.

Do you have a good protein skimmer? That will help with nitrates. What about feeding? How much, how often and what? Frozen food is your best bet, stick to frozen only and don't overfeed.

And what is your water source? Tap water can contain high nitrates.

 

[fatman]

When you feed frozen foods it is best to fhaw it first and discard the fluid and just use the particles. The fluid isn't eatten so just becomes food for the bacteria producing your nitrates. Untilyou replace the bio balls you could remove and claen a5 to 35 percent of the bio balls every couple of weeks. After you clean them place them back into filters, Bioballs and any such filtrer medi accumalate organics on there surface these sluff off back into water if not rinsed occasionally. I assume you are going to keep the live rock rubble completely submerged and not in the trickle filter where they just have water trickling over them. I believe if live rock is used as a trickle filter medi you would still have the same problem as with bioballs. That is more than adequate filtration for a quarantine tank. Remember though if you have to medicate in the quarantine tank that most medication is quickly removed by skimmer, and that they play can also kill off biofilter bacteria.

 

[Jayhawker]

I am currently using frozen food, I have a variety of different kinds of the small cubes, and I am feeding them 1/2 of a thawed cube every other day, and about once a week I put in a small piece of dryed algea. I think my protein skimmer is doing well, I changed the original one out with a current power fussion 110 gal, and It needs emptied about twice a week, fairly thick foul smelling gunk in it.