Let's Talk About Low pH

Rcpilot

Reef enthusiast
So I just lost my first SPS frag and I'm a little upset. Yes, it was a $5 frag but it still irritates me. The frag tank had low pH and I'm sure thats what caused the SPS to recede and die.

So I used 15ml of 2-part B Ionic to jump my pH. 15ml of each part. pH was really low. I tested about 20 minutes after the dose and it was up around 8.0.

Now I test an hour later and it's low again. How much can I keep dosing it? Can I keep putting in 15ml every couple hours and see if it'll stabilize? How do I get the pH up and make it STAY up?

I know somebody is going to mention cO2 - trust me thats not the problem. With the overflows and the sump and baffles - this thing sounds like a small waterfall in my apartment. I can hear water sloshing all the way in the back bedroom. It's getting plenty of oxygen through all that sloshing and surface contact.

Kalk doser?
 
It dont matter how much the water if churning if the house is built pretty tight.CO2 can still build up in the house and drop the PH.

The best thing I ever did for my PH,was start using BAKED baking soda for an alkalinity buffer.I keep the alk at 12 DKH.I also ran the air intake hose on my skimmer out the bedroom window,plus keep the window open about 6 inches.Keeps my PH around 8.4,drops off to 8.3-8.2 after lights out.
 
I know somebody is going to mention cO2 - trust me thats not the problem.
I know you don't want to hear it, but excessive co2 is most likely your problem. High co2 = low pH. As you are finding out, it's best not dose any buffers to raise pH as you will also be raising alk.
Low pH: Causes and Cures
"Clearly, the pH is lower at any given alkalinity when the carbon dioxide is raised. It is this excess carbon dioxide that leads to most low pH problems for reef aquarists."
"Some solutions to pH problems are peculiar to each cause, and these are detailed below. There are, however, some general solutions that are frequently effective. These include using high pH additives when alkalinity is required. Limewater (kalkwasser) is the best choice in this regard, followed by the high pH two-part additives. These methods have the advantage of raising pH, but not raising alkalinity relative to calcium in an undesirable fashion.
Buffers alone are not generally a good method as they raise pH little, and result in excessive alkalinity. Unfortunately, the labels on many commercial buffers are written in ways that convince aquarists that the pH will be fine if they just add some buffer. More often than not, the pH is not improved for more than a day, and the alkalinity rises beyond desired limits.
Two other useful methods include growing macroalgae that absorb some CO[SIZE=-1]2[/SIZE] from the water as they grow (often lit on a reverse light cycle to the main tank to provide the maximum pH rise when the main tank is at its pH minimum), and aerating the water with fresh air."
 
ccCapt you said in the other thread that my alkalinity was way low. It's over 11 right now. I thought 11 was as high as you wanted to go? I thought alk. between 2.4 - 4.0 was acceptable and dkh between 8-11 was acceptable?

You're saying that still too low?
 
I got this from your other thread.
Did some testing. pH was down to about 7.6 and dkh was 2.4. I used some B-Ionic and dosed it up.
If your alk was 2.4 meq/l (6.7 dKH) and it's 11 dKH (3.9 meq/l) now, that super large swing is not good at all.
I think you are confusing your readings. Alk is measured in dKH, meq/l or ppm. All 3 are the same thing. 3 meq/l = 8.4 dKH = 150 ppm.

I keep my alk at 9 dKH or 3.2 meq/l or 160 ppm.
 
Along the lines of PH, what is the best or "better" testing kit? The one I have (unable to recall brand right now) is very difficult to tell the different colors and I know this is giving me a less than accurate reading.
 
A PH meter is the BEST testing method IMO. But salifert are the way to go as far as test kits go.
 
An electronic meter is hands down the best method to keep up with PH.

I think a lot of Rc's PH problems are coming from CO2 in the house.Especially since the alkalinity is 11 DKH.
 
I don't. You could throw a cat through every corner and out every window in this place. It's 35yrs old with old single pane windows and an open hallyway thats freezing cold at night and I can damn sure feel that draft around the door jam and every window.

The furnace is only 50k BTU and the place is always chilly in the wintertime. It's a new Janitrol (Junkitrol) but it works. 2yrs old. 80% 2-stage

The stove is electric, so is the oven. Hot water heater is out in the hallyway. Dual 100g commercial heaters with about a 1000g storage tank. You guys in the HVAC and plumbing business will understand that. Point is there is only 1 fuel burning appliance in this apartment and the place is leaky as a spaghetti strainer.

I have a co detector down low in the furnace closet and another up high at 6ft off the floor right outside the furnace closet. I test these every 2 or 3 months and replace the batteries every 8 or 9 months. Too many sad stories about little kids dieing from co poisoning so I keep that stuff up to date.

If you guys want, I'll put a brand new wood airstone on an air pump and take it outside or set the pump near an open window tomorrow morning and then check pH again about 6hrs later.

Of course I'll check the pH right before we start the test. I'll even take pictures of it so you don't think I'm BSing you. But I really don't think I have too much co2 in the home. It's just too damn drafty in here. I run my bathroom exhaust fan a lot too. There's 4 people here and somebody is always in the bathroom for a shower or something else.
 
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If you guys want, I'll put a brand new wood airstone on an air pump and take it outside or set the pump near an open window tomorrow morning and then check pH again about 6hrs later.
This is from the link I posted previously. Give it a shot.

"The Aeration Test
Some of the possibilities listed above require some effort to diagnose. Problems 3 and 4 are quite common, and here is a way to distinguish them. Remove a cup of tank water and measure the pH. Then aerate it for an hour with an airstone using outside air. The pH should rise if the pH is unusually low for the measured alkalinity, as in Figure 3 (if it does not rise, most likely one of the measurements (pH or alkalinity) is in error). Then repeat the same experiment on a new cup of water using inside air. If the pH rises there too, then the aquarium pH will rise with more aeration because it is only the aquarium that contains excess carbon dioxide. If the pH does not rise inside (or rises very little), then the inside air contains excess CO[SIZE=-1]2[/SIZE], and more aeration with that same air will not solve the low pH problem (although aeration with fresher air should)."
 
I'd try it Rc and see what happens.:dunno:
One thing I just thought of to,how old it your PH kit and have you had one of the local stores run a PH test?Just to double check.
 
Rc I forgot to say that your Thread title reminded me of Biology class when we watched a film about STDs. "Let's talk about....."
I can hear that man's voice over in my head. :lol:
 
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