Lighting during tanks initial cycle????
- Thread starter ZOOT098
- Start date
ZOOT098
Reefing newb
i bought a master test kit
the amonia test is 5ml of water in a test tube and 2 bottles of chemical that you drop in the tube
i guess the chemicals react with the amonia
it turns the water green then you compare the green with a chart
the amonia test is 5ml of water in a test tube and 2 bottles of chemical that you drop in the tube
i guess the chemicals react with the amonia
it turns the water green then you compare the green with a chart
Reefgyrl
Reefing newb
You can use a bit of cocktail shrimp too.
IraqVeteran
HOOAH
I would agree with biff...I always use flake food. You let it rot/decompose and the nitrifying bacteria will start to build up. I usually put some turbo snails in my tank after 4 weeks and then at 6 weeks I add two green chromis. Then at about two months I get rid of the chromis and add the fish I want. Thats how I was told to do it 8 years ago and thats how Ive done it ever since.
Everyone has there own little snap to what makes the cycle work, but in general its the same.
Everyone has there own little snap to what makes the cycle work, but in general its the same.
Reefgyrl
Reefing newb
Unless you don't have live rock and you plan on keeping the chromis, you will play hell trying to get them out of the tank. Been there, done that. :-) After your cycle is over and everything is normal in a couple weeks you should be able to add whatever kind of fish you want.
ZOOT098
Reefing newb
thanks all
i went for the flake food method
its waiting time now
i actually was going to start with two green chromis, my LFS doesnt sell damsels because they are too agressive in her opinion
who knew this would be such a hot topic
i went for the flake food method
its waiting time now
i actually was going to start with two green chromis, my LFS doesnt sell damsels because they are too agressive in her opinion
who knew this would be such a hot topic
Bifferwine
I am a girl
Chromis are a type of damsel, as are clownfish. They are just one of the more passive types.
With out lights you will have unnecessary coraline death. This would be seen as the Coraline on the live rock turning white. I find diatom algae easy to deal with, and prefer to keep my live rock as live as possible to include what life forms came with and on the live rock besides just keeping the bacteria alive. The best way to do this is run the lights, all circulation pumps and a skimmer if you have one. Feed the tank a little fish food when first starting your tank cycle if the water tests do not show an ammonia presence (usually this is not necessary as there is usually some die off associated with new live rock). Make sure you have a new, good ammonia test kit. Test the tank at least twice a day (morning and evening). As soon as the level gets above one part per million, change enough water to bring it down to safe levels. For example, if your test shows that you're at 1.25ppm, you'll need do approximately a 25% water change to get it below 1ppm. It may take 4 to 7 days or more of water changes until the tank cycles. Start testing for nitrites. When the nitrite readings drop to zero. Do a large enough water change to bring your nitrate readings below 20 ppm. Slowly add a few fish at a time after the last water change that reduced you nitrates to below 20.
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