Loc-Line?

FishyReef

FishyReef

Broke Reefer!
I just ordered some loc-line supplies to add to my return line from my sump in order to direct water flow in a few directions. Has anyone used this product before? Do I need to use some sort of pvc adhesive/glue/softener when I connect the pieces together in order to make them water tight?
 
I've used it a lot, and in other projects other than reef tanks. You need to seal them like you would seal any other plumbing.
 
For those with loc-lines, how have you attached them to your return line? I thought I'd be able to connect it to a directional u-tube that you hang over the back of your tank (one of these: Aquarium Plumbing: Directional U-Tube) I ordered the 3/4" one to go with loc-line supplies, but the u-tube was way too big; so I ordered a second 1/2" u-tube and it is a close fit but not close enough to connect my loc-line. I'm pretty frustrated at this point because I really need a check valve (and bought one that fits with my loc-line) to prevent back-flow into my sump. I still don't have my sump up and running, hence no protein skimmer, and my water looks like crap. I really wanted to set the thing up tonight so tried punching holes in the u-tube as a temporary stop-gap to prevent a reverse siphon when my pump shuts down until I could get a check-valve attached. Well, now I've got water spraying everywhere out of the holes I punched. The first ones I punched were too low, the next ones too high and now the u-tube isn't useable at all. I also bought and set up a float switch to turn my return pump off if the water line gets too low, but the thing is so darn sensitive that any little backflow from my return hose starts the thing again and is going to burn out my pump. So frustrated!!! Can someone please point me in the right direction?? I really want to get my sump running
 
BL1 said:
I had the same problem when I was setting up my return too. I actually bought the same U-tube as you, as well as loc-line fittings. Unfortunately, the U-tube isn't made by the same manufacturer and don't work together. You'll need a fitting like this 1/2" NPT connector for 1/2" Loc-Line Modular Hose - English IOT use the loc-line fittings.
Click to expand...

Bless you for the information! Do I connect my soft return tube directly to that, or is there another connector that I need to connect that piece to the return tube?
 
Okay, that's very helpful, thank you!

Will the check-valve prevent the float switch on-off problem I am having, or will I still get enough water flowing down through the tube to still cause it to repeatedly turn off/on? If so, how do I fix this?
 
The check valve just prevents water from back flowing into the pump if for some reason the pump loses power.
 
BL1 said:
The check valve just prevents water from back flowing into the pump if for some reason the pump loses power.
Click to expand...

Yup, I got that part! I've set up the float switch to turn the pump off if the water level in the sump gets too low (either because the siphon on my overflow and line coming into the pump breaks or because the return pump is pumping faster than the gravity-based siphon bringing water to the sump). I was testing it out tonight when I was trying to get the sump set up and found that it worked just like it was supposed to, expect that the back flow into the sump from the return line caused the water level to rise and the pump to turn back on almost immediately - on, off, on, off - you get the picture! I'm hoping that with the check valve I won't get as much back flow, but I am thinking I will still get some just because there will still be water in the hose going up to the tank. Should I put my check valve closer to the pump instead of where the return line dumps into the tank?
 
Yep you could definitely put the valve closer to the pump to limit that from happening. The check valves will have to be replaced periodically though, as they're prone to failure.
 
You can also build your own U-tube out of regular old plumbing elbows and fittings. If I recall, Loc-line uses national pipe thread. So PVC fittings from Home Depot would work. Also, I have never had a problem with just having a hole drilled to prevent back siphon. Maybe you just need to make it a bit larger so the water doesn't spray. The hole I have in my return line is right at water level and is about 1/4" diameter.
 
bjohanson1234 said:
You can also build your own U-tube out of regular old plumbing elbows and fittings. If I recall, Loc-line uses national pipe thread. So PVC fittings from Home Depot would work. Also, I have never had a problem with just having a hole drilled to prevent back siphon. Maybe you just need to make it a bit larger so the water doesn't spray. The hole I have in my return line is right at water level and is about 1/4" diameter.
Click to expand...

Well, then the holes are definitely too small - I used something that would be the equivalent of an ice pick and hammered it through the plastic. At this point though I'm thinking I'm going to ditch that u-tube anyway since I can't connect the loc-line to it. I think I'll order the part Brian linked to and then take it with me to home depot to see if I can get the right fittings for it and make my own u-tube like you suggested. I can drill holes in whatever u-tube I come up with, but I still think I'll add a check valve closer to the pump since I think the water remaining in the return tube is going to be enough to cause my float switch to rise and my pump to turn back on. This is just all way too complicated, but I am sure I will feel a great sense of accomplishment and pride when the darn thing actually works right!

Oh, and speaking of plumbing, I also discovered tonight that the connector piece I got from home depot to connect pvc pipe to my skimmer output has metal in it - why I didn't realize this before I have no idea, but this is a rust factory waiting to happen! I have a reef octopus skimmer and the output flows upward into a gate valve and then out. If I don't add pvc to it, the water is just going to gush straight out - and I also want to send part of the water to a refugium via a y-connector pvc fitting (have all the parts for it already). The issue is that the gate valve that came with the skimmer isn't a standard size to connected to pvc fittings from home depot. So the plumbing department guy at home depot hooked me up with a rubber adapter that I can loosen and tighten with hose clamps (? if this is the right term) - problem is the outside of the adapter is covered in metal and the clamps are metal, all of which are below the water line in my sump! I seriously can't believe I didn't realize this before. So, gotta go find either another similar adapter that isn't covered in a metal casing, or find some way to remove the metal casing from this one and buy plastic clamps if I can find them this big! I think I need to find a plumbing supply warehouse or something LOL. Is it always this complicated?
 
Do you think I could use duct tape temporarily to close up the holes that I made in the return line that are spraying water? It would be above the water line, but water would still be flowing through the line into the tank and might come in contact with the adhesive (the holes are really small). My water looks really cloudy and I really want to run my protein skimmer. If I could close up the holes on the return line this would at least temporarily allow me to run the sump while I'm waiting for the parts to properly set up the loc-line
 
I don't have any silicone, but I do have some extra epoxy that I used on my rocks that would probably work to fill the holes. I think I'll give that a try tomorrow and see what happens!
 

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