Lots of equipment choices....
- Thread starter Mr Smiley
- Start date
reeffreak
Reef pro
Your overflow can handle up to 1500gph but I wouldn't want to push it.I would go with something rated 1200-1500gph at zero head height.They will lose around 200-250gph at a head height of six feet.If you split the return lines up,you will even lose more gph so bumping up 1500-1750 would be better.
I do like the say if you are going that high gph,an external pump will run cooler then an in-sump return pump.For external,the Panworld pumps are the best IMO for cost,reliability,noise and heat.
I do like the say if you are going that high gph,an external pump will run cooler then an in-sump return pump.For external,the Panworld pumps are the best IMO for cost,reliability,noise and heat.
I found the Pan World pump at Premium aquatics. Im looking at the PW-200PS. Its rated at 1750 gph. Or the PW-250PS Which is rated at 1900 gph. Id like to do a split return line.
Can you reduce the flow with a ball or gate valve if its too much?
Bifferwine
I am a girl
You should always put a ball or gate valve after your return pump. It's very rare that the overflow and pump will be perfectly matched, so odds are you'll have to dial it down. To reduce the amount of back pressure on the pump, you can plumb a T from the pump -- one side of the T goes to the display tank, the other side of the T goes back to the sump. When you adjust the ball valve, it simply redirects some of the water back into the sump instead of just blocking it off.
So if I understand correctly have lets say one foot of line coming out of the pump, then add a tee, then a valve or some sort in both the return to the DT and the fuge? Or just one valve going to the DT? Either way it seems easy enough.
I have seen the real LED lights and yes $2500 is way too much for LED lights. I thought the ones i was looking at for $1300 with T5 bulbs weren't too bad.... I was Whatong. I think a Combination of MH and T-5 and moon lights will work for me.
What is the benefit of having a controller unit? I was at premium aquatics and looked at a few that did everything. Heck i even looked at one that will text message you if there is an issue. They also say they can control power heads, but from what ive read Hydor can only be controlled with the brand specific controller. Would this mean that id have to choose a different wave makers?
What is the benefit of having a controller unit? I was at premium aquatics and looked at a few that did everything. Heck i even looked at one that will text message you if there is an issue. They also say they can control power heads, but from what ive read Hydor can only be controlled with the brand specific controller. Would this mean that id have to choose a different wave makers?
Bifferwine
I am a girl
Let me see if I can explain it better. Like this: Return pump splits off into a T -- one line goes to the sump, the other goes to the display. You put the ball valve on the line that goes back the sump, so when you open and close the ball valve you control how much water gets redirected back to the sump. That's how you control how much water goes back to the display. The more water being redirected back to the sump, the less water ends up going back to the display.
You only need one return pump. I can't think of a good reason to have two.
You only need one return pump. I can't think of a good reason to have two.
reeffreak
Reef pro
I have the Panworld pump rated at 1750gph and it is too much.This is on a system with two returns at 5ft and it also feeds a refugium.I have the ball valve close about 1/2.
That pump should be plenty.Just one return pump is needed.Biff description on setting up a ball valve is so it doesn't put back pressure on the pump.The Panworld will run just fine without a return T but you will still need a ball valve.
There are controllers that do many things include wavemaker functions and there are controllers specifically for just wavemaking.You wouldn't buy both.
That pump should be plenty.Just one return pump is needed.Biff description on setting up a ball valve is so it doesn't put back pressure on the pump.The Panworld will run just fine without a return T but you will still need a ball valve.
There are controllers that do many things include wavemaker functions and there are controllers specifically for just wavemaking.You wouldn't buy both.
AHHHH Thank you. I understand much better. Makes sence now:^:
I just wasnt sure if two were better then one as most things are..... Just in case if one pump starts to fail. So one good quality pump is the way to go.
yote
In Memoriam
It wont hurt to have an extra pump on hand,just in case.:D
But theres no need for both to be hooked up and running at the same time.
But theres no need for both to be hooked up and running at the same time.
reeffreak
Reef pro
I was never able to run my tank below 80 degrees when I had a Magdrive.Not only did it run hot,it was very loud.Besides what you already mentioned,once you get into the 1200+gph pumps,they are huge and internal pumps take up alot of space and like you said heat.
BL1
.............
Haven't heard anything about the I-Tech but, you can't go wrong with the Octopus. Yote's always praising the E.T.S.S Reef Devils as well
reeffreak
Reef pro
I honestly don't think you can go wrong with either skimmers.
yote
In Memoriam
You can add all the reactors and stuff that you want to.BUT,I've pretty much learned that the K.I.S.S. method,is by far THE BEST method when it comes to reefkeeping.
reeffreak
Reef pro
Many of us use Phosphate reactors.A place to run GFO(granular ferric oxide) and carbon when needed.
GFO and Carbon Reactors - English
GFO and Carbon Reactors - English
