Modding Octo 110 NW

30 bucks for 5 dollars worth of PVC?!?!?!!!!!!!

Not sure what it does, but yeah you can get it cheaper at the HD. hardest thing to find will be the gate valve. Sometimes stores are light in stock on those.
 
It'll hlp adjust the skimmer better and also divert water away from the edge of my sump. This morning I awoke to water in the bottom of my stand and found that water coming out of the skimmer was splashing over the side. So I've been hunting down that image alllll day. I'd just feel like a dumbass messing up my skimmer for $5 worth of PVC.
 
I think most of those skimmers have metric size PVC. You will need some sort of reducer or transition fitting to make the mod work
 
Some other threads I've read said they just used a thicker PVC glue. But I think with that rubber connector it'll work just as well, if I can find one.
 
Sweet, thanks for you link. Did you cut the shaft at all before you slipper that rubber piece over it? Good idea about the rubber also.
No, I didn't have to cut anything....so I can remove the pieces of PVC and put it back in it's stock configuration if I needed to. I got the rubber piece from either HD or Lowes. It's a common item. It's made to join 2 1.5" piece of pipe. The skimmer parts are metric so it's a little bit of a loose fit, but that part isn't cover by water and I used a stainless steel hose clamp to secure it to the skimmers metric plumbing.
 
Hahahaha!!!! God I hate plumbing! Bought everything I need in 1 1/4" and it's too large. So back to HD Tom. to exchange. except I don't think they have that Durso fitting in 1" so I may be stuck with thick PVC glue.
 
Ya, but 1 1/4" is gonna be way too large anyways. So I might as well exchange them for 1". Funyy thing is, is that I was going to buy the parts in 1" but then at the last moment I was like "eh, I don't need those"
 
Question: If the tube going down out of the 90 angle is ina compartment that has fluctuating water levels, it's the chamber with the return pump, will it matter if it is submerged in water? Would that create pressure problems?
 
It shouldn't make a difference as long as it's always underwater. I found I got the best results by having the ouput just barely touching the surface of the water. If you are setting it up like I think you are, you might run into problems.

Here's my sump.
ato3_5-09.jpg

The water comes in on the right where the skimmer is. The skimmer return goes back into the same chamber. If I put the output into the next section to the left where the bulkhead to the return pump is, it would pull the water out faster than it drains from the tank and eventually the skimmer pump will be sucking air. What happens is the water will fill the section on the left up to the top of the baffle and the section where the skimmer is will be even with the pump. (At least that's what happened to me when I tried it like that.)
 
Ok, so I can't find a 1" gate way valve anywhere around here; checked multiple ACE hardwares, Lowes, HD, local plumbing stores. So I bought a ball valve, hopefully it'll be as accurate as a gate way. Capt, did you glue your pieces together or are they slipped together?

Since I don't feel like encountering any problems I'm placing the output from the skimmer in the section of my sump that receives the water from the DT. Tomorrow before work I'm going to place the sump in my shower and do a leak test on it. I figure since I've got it out I might as well see if the sump itself was leaking also. I'm also certainly not looking forwards to getting the flow started to the sump again, my heart stops everytime I have to do that.
 
Finally, a store with someone who wants to help people! Called another ACE and the guy is special ordering me a gate valve so I don't have to use this stupid ball valve. Still wondering if I should glue stuff together though. Any thoughts?
 
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