monkiboy's 265g build thread

The Dadfish is notoriously hard to keep in captivity. I'm not sure your tank is big enough. He looks happy though!

lol

Looking good!
 
Monkiboy

I have not been on the site in about a year (hello all my old friends). This thread is amazing. I got working on my 120 today and thought I would see what was new here. Im glad I did, those clowns are beautiful. please call of work for the following two weeks and get this bad boy done.

May I ask why you painted the wood red around where the tank will sit.

Dave
 
I think he used Red Guard it goes on pink and drys red. its more like a ruber when its dry and a moisture barrier. Its mainly used for flooring like is showers or under wood flooring if you have a high humidity rating. But hes using it on his stand so the wood wont get water damage or soak up any humidity. So its like a safe guard so that it will last.
 
ordered my external over glass. did it all in 3/8" non-tempered plate glass with polished edges. ordered from laurel glass (they had the best pricing by $40). banner, dulles etc wanted around $104-175 and laurel quoted me $59. friendly service and hopefully they get the measurements right and polish the edges nicely.

i went with a 30" x 5.5" x 12" external overflow.

i wanted the 3/8" for rigidity on the bottom with the bulkheads and for the strength on the larger 30" glass in case i accidentally lean on it or put pressure on it, basically for peace of mind.

5.5" depth allows over an 1" on each end of the 2.5" bulkhead openings for drains of the bean animal. 30" give me plenty of room for acclimation, time-out space, etc and to water to dial in the bean animal.

will be using the same dow 795 black silicone i used on the internal overflow as it has proven VERY strong. i think even without bulkheads holding the internal to external boxes together the ~9g (70lbs) will hold nicely with just the dow product and thicker glass.

evan or anyone else, should i be putting the silicone between the glass edge that will touch the rear of the tank and the inside and outside corner seams or do i push the flat edge up against the back pane of the tank and then do the corner seams inside and outside?
 
20130620_191946_zps0876f84d.jpg
 
so i got 3/8" for all sides but boy are the pieces heavy. i know evan and i went on about how strong the bond can be but coming off 6" from the back pane with a 30" x 12" pane i think requires some reinforcement, a stand, or something to hold it up. i can't image all that weight with the glass and water being held up safely on it's own. anyone have any thoughts?
 
it was the least messy way i could figure of doing it. each hole in the tank took about 30 minutes to drill. i just knew a water bottle or similar was going to be more annoying then helpful and still create a bit of a mess.

i cracked the bottom pane of the external overflow testing (it's almost the same thickness of the tank) and constant flowing water was really needed. so i ordered another pane for the bottom of the external overflow, drill those holes for the bean outside with a hose and got to figuring out how to do the back pane of the tank without having a flood of glass-water. the above was the best thing my father and i came up with and it worked out really well. there was still some spray from the bit shooting water out in a circular pattern but it was minimal and 95% of the water made it down our trash bag funnel and into the planter to be pumped back up.

i only got through two holes, so i have two holes left to do on the back of the display tank to allow water to flow through the internal mailbox style overflow into the external overflow.
 
How big are the holes for the overflow ??? Are those going to have bulkheads also or just on the external overflow box.
the holes in the back pane of the display tank are about 1.9" diameter designed for a 1" sch80 bulkhead. they will not have a bulkhead and are just for allowing water to flow from the internal inbox-style overflow to the external overflow.
 
Are your returns going to come in from one of those holes or you going to go over the top for the return line ??? Or maybe drill some other holes ??
 
Sea swirl ??? Hu might have to look that up.. It will make the returns fluctuate to creat difrent currents right ??? Might be a cheap alternative to me getting the MP 40 lol.
 
Sea swirl ??? Hu might have to look that up.. It will make the returns fluctuate to creat difrent currents right ??? Might be a cheap alternative to me getting the MP 40 lol.
kind of old school i guess...Sea Swirl

it creates an oscillating return for alternating flow. they also have the same design for powerheads - i think it's called sea-sweep. they have a lot of fun goodies for our tank.
 
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