(PART-1)
ARTICLE by Don Carner
Introduction to Fish-Only Tank Lighting
A wide range of articles on this topic can easily be found in most marine aquaria publications today, but all the information discussed here is based upon personal observation and implementation. With the information that I am going to share in this series on saltwater aquarium lighting, I hope to help you learn how not to drive yourself insane, broke, or both! Having said all that, let's begin.
There are many variations of marine life keeping now popular in this country and abroad. For the sake of simplicity, I will categorize this article into the two major subdivisions: fish-only and reef lighting. Naturally, any lighting package suitable for a reef system would also be useable on a fish-only tank, but it would be rather like hunting squirrel with a stinger missile!
Seeing as how the majority of folks entering the hobby begin with fish-only systems, I will address this area of lighting first. Many of us who contemplate getting started want to begin with the idea of upgrades and expansion down the road, or after "getting their feet wet". This is wise, as it is always preferable to over-compensate in our hobby. Why? The primary consideration is cost. Better to buy that which can be reused or recycled later when that bigger tank and more delicate species catch our eye.
The basic fish-only aquarium set-up usually consists of the tank, filter and lighting. There are many other factors to consider, but for my purposes of addressing aquarium lighting here, I shall keep it simple.
Pre-manufactured plastic hoods with a single or double fluorescent tubes are ready-made packages that are easiest to install and maintain. You have no options here. Buy it, set it on the tank rim and turn it on. The quality of the actual tube is generally geared for freshwater guppies and goldfish, rather than marine fish. Not to worry though, as there are essentially no differences other than color enhancement for the viewer.
If you are amongst the majority of first-time aquarists, you will most likely choose a package or light hood that is recommended by your local fish shop. These packages normally consist of the one-piece plastic hood with the light fixture already installed. The ease and convenience of these light hoods are very attractive to the beginner as they require no specialized knowledge other than where to plug them in! By simply installing these hoods on the tank, we have accomplished and eliminated all the worry and frustration over what to do about illumination. This frees the aquarist to concentrate on the learning of other basics that ultimately result in long-term success in their new hobby. These hoods use a "can" electro-static energizer to get the bulb glowing and are easily replaced when they eventually go bad. Plastic hoods, while not cheap, certainly provide all the fundamental requirements needed for the first time fish-only aquarist or long-term fish-keeper.
Fluorescent tubes provide varying degrees of color enhancement to the fish, that results in the gorgeous splash of vibrant colors that attract most new folks to the hobby. The basic wattages in standard "stock" tubes here vary from 15 watts to 40 watts output power. Newbies will soon learn that tube length generally equates to tube wattages, although we shall see how this can differ as we progress. For those wanting a small system up to 55 gallons, and have no intention beyond fish-keeping, these plastic hoods with their Standard "stock" or NO fluorescent tubes do a fine job and provide many years of reliable service. NO (Normal Ouput) fluorescent tubes like the Vita-Lite feature a color temperature around 5500K and come with a stated useful lifespan of approximately 20,000 hours of illumination. They also have a two-year warranty that make this choice ideal for the fish-only set up. The beauty here is that these NO tubes are quite reasonable in price and the experimentation process can be fun and stay well within a reasonable budget. However, they will not be able to accommodate nor support any photosynthetic animals, or provide the output intensity required for other extremely light hungry marine denizens.
What is to be expected and what is to be accomplished by these hoods is simple and straightforward. Basic illumination and the simulation of the day-night cycle as found in Nature. By replacing the stock tube that comes with these pre-manufactured light hoods, one can influence the coloration of the fishes and other aspects of the aquarium’s environment.
What if your plans are to start out with a fish-only tank with no intention of keeping reef animals, but later change your mind and decide to advance into the realm of keeping some reef life? The question here is, will a basic pre-manufactured light hood work for this purpose, and if so, which type should you choose?
For those of you contemplating a 55 gallon aquarium as a fish-only tank to begin with, and choosing say a Perfecto style plastic hood, try to select the model that incorporates 2 tubes. Why? Sooner or later, and it happens to most fish-only aquarists, you are going to want to try “just a few†soft corals, or perhaps a piece or two of live rock. The flexibility that the 2 bulb fixture allows is to be able to replace one of those standard lower wattage and "K" (Kelvin) stock tubes with an actinic, or a higher K (Kelvin) NO tube, such as a 10,000K bulb. This will allow you to accommodate some reef life. I go into more detail about specific reef life lighting requirements in later Chapters, but for now keep in mind that only the very hardiest of soft corals, such as the actinodicus (mushroom corals) and sea mats can thrive under the illumination provided by only two of these normal output tubes.
As we progress into the understanding of fluorescent tube wattages, CRI and "K" (Kelvin) in Chapter 2, you will see how by experimenting with the various types of lighting tubes on the market, the hobbyist can discover the myriad of differing effects these lights can achieve. Testing the waters in this manner allows the hobbyist to get their feet wet in the realm of invert and coral keeping.
For a beginning introduction to understanding reef aquaria lighting, let us take a look at the basic types of lighting methods that can be used.
Now that I have addressed the basic lighting requirements of a fish-only tank, the reef aspect to aquarium lighting is a much more complex and intimidating arena. Before I begin on this discussion, let me state right up front that each element has its supporters and detractors. There are just as many pros and cons and opinions as to "what's the best lighting to use" as there are to the politics of this great land of ours, so be forewarned, I'm sure I'll ruffle a few feathers here! Follows is a basic outline of the various types of lighting used for reef aquaria.
1.) Fluorescents
A - Normal Output (NO)
B - High Output (HO)
C - Very High Output (VHO)
D - Power Compacts (PC) or Osram
2.) Metal Halides (MH)
-Metal Halide does not have any differentiating qualities other than wattage and spectral output.
-Sodiums and Iodines are not suitable for our hobby, so I'll state that commercial building or parking lot metal halides be steered clear of.
Now, why choose one fluorescent over another? Why choose fluorescents at all? Why not go for it and install metal halides? Or for that matter, why not pick up a power compact and leave all the controversy behind? It is these very questions that plague many hobbyists. Most of us plan on spending and investing in a lighting system only once, and want it to be right the first time! I shed a little more light on this very issue in PART-2, discussing in detail the fundamentals of fluorescent lighting such as wattages, the CRI (Color Rendition Index), and "K" (Kelvin).
(CONT. PART-2)
ARTICLE by Don Carner
Introduction to Fish-Only Tank Lighting
A wide range of articles on this topic can easily be found in most marine aquaria publications today, but all the information discussed here is based upon personal observation and implementation. With the information that I am going to share in this series on saltwater aquarium lighting, I hope to help you learn how not to drive yourself insane, broke, or both! Having said all that, let's begin.
There are many variations of marine life keeping now popular in this country and abroad. For the sake of simplicity, I will categorize this article into the two major subdivisions: fish-only and reef lighting. Naturally, any lighting package suitable for a reef system would also be useable on a fish-only tank, but it would be rather like hunting squirrel with a stinger missile!
Seeing as how the majority of folks entering the hobby begin with fish-only systems, I will address this area of lighting first. Many of us who contemplate getting started want to begin with the idea of upgrades and expansion down the road, or after "getting their feet wet". This is wise, as it is always preferable to over-compensate in our hobby. Why? The primary consideration is cost. Better to buy that which can be reused or recycled later when that bigger tank and more delicate species catch our eye.
The basic fish-only aquarium set-up usually consists of the tank, filter and lighting. There are many other factors to consider, but for my purposes of addressing aquarium lighting here, I shall keep it simple.
Pre-manufactured plastic hoods with a single or double fluorescent tubes are ready-made packages that are easiest to install and maintain. You have no options here. Buy it, set it on the tank rim and turn it on. The quality of the actual tube is generally geared for freshwater guppies and goldfish, rather than marine fish. Not to worry though, as there are essentially no differences other than color enhancement for the viewer.
If you are amongst the majority of first-time aquarists, you will most likely choose a package or light hood that is recommended by your local fish shop. These packages normally consist of the one-piece plastic hood with the light fixture already installed. The ease and convenience of these light hoods are very attractive to the beginner as they require no specialized knowledge other than where to plug them in! By simply installing these hoods on the tank, we have accomplished and eliminated all the worry and frustration over what to do about illumination. This frees the aquarist to concentrate on the learning of other basics that ultimately result in long-term success in their new hobby. These hoods use a "can" electro-static energizer to get the bulb glowing and are easily replaced when they eventually go bad. Plastic hoods, while not cheap, certainly provide all the fundamental requirements needed for the first time fish-only aquarist or long-term fish-keeper.
Fluorescent tubes provide varying degrees of color enhancement to the fish, that results in the gorgeous splash of vibrant colors that attract most new folks to the hobby. The basic wattages in standard "stock" tubes here vary from 15 watts to 40 watts output power. Newbies will soon learn that tube length generally equates to tube wattages, although we shall see how this can differ as we progress. For those wanting a small system up to 55 gallons, and have no intention beyond fish-keeping, these plastic hoods with their Standard "stock" or NO fluorescent tubes do a fine job and provide many years of reliable service. NO (Normal Ouput) fluorescent tubes like the Vita-Lite feature a color temperature around 5500K and come with a stated useful lifespan of approximately 20,000 hours of illumination. They also have a two-year warranty that make this choice ideal for the fish-only set up. The beauty here is that these NO tubes are quite reasonable in price and the experimentation process can be fun and stay well within a reasonable budget. However, they will not be able to accommodate nor support any photosynthetic animals, or provide the output intensity required for other extremely light hungry marine denizens.
What is to be expected and what is to be accomplished by these hoods is simple and straightforward. Basic illumination and the simulation of the day-night cycle as found in Nature. By replacing the stock tube that comes with these pre-manufactured light hoods, one can influence the coloration of the fishes and other aspects of the aquarium’s environment.
What if your plans are to start out with a fish-only tank with no intention of keeping reef animals, but later change your mind and decide to advance into the realm of keeping some reef life? The question here is, will a basic pre-manufactured light hood work for this purpose, and if so, which type should you choose?
For those of you contemplating a 55 gallon aquarium as a fish-only tank to begin with, and choosing say a Perfecto style plastic hood, try to select the model that incorporates 2 tubes. Why? Sooner or later, and it happens to most fish-only aquarists, you are going to want to try “just a few†soft corals, or perhaps a piece or two of live rock. The flexibility that the 2 bulb fixture allows is to be able to replace one of those standard lower wattage and "K" (Kelvin) stock tubes with an actinic, or a higher K (Kelvin) NO tube, such as a 10,000K bulb. This will allow you to accommodate some reef life. I go into more detail about specific reef life lighting requirements in later Chapters, but for now keep in mind that only the very hardiest of soft corals, such as the actinodicus (mushroom corals) and sea mats can thrive under the illumination provided by only two of these normal output tubes.
As we progress into the understanding of fluorescent tube wattages, CRI and "K" (Kelvin) in Chapter 2, you will see how by experimenting with the various types of lighting tubes on the market, the hobbyist can discover the myriad of differing effects these lights can achieve. Testing the waters in this manner allows the hobbyist to get their feet wet in the realm of invert and coral keeping.
For a beginning introduction to understanding reef aquaria lighting, let us take a look at the basic types of lighting methods that can be used.
Now that I have addressed the basic lighting requirements of a fish-only tank, the reef aspect to aquarium lighting is a much more complex and intimidating arena. Before I begin on this discussion, let me state right up front that each element has its supporters and detractors. There are just as many pros and cons and opinions as to "what's the best lighting to use" as there are to the politics of this great land of ours, so be forewarned, I'm sure I'll ruffle a few feathers here! Follows is a basic outline of the various types of lighting used for reef aquaria.
1.) Fluorescents
A - Normal Output (NO)
B - High Output (HO)
C - Very High Output (VHO)
D - Power Compacts (PC) or Osram
2.) Metal Halides (MH)
-Metal Halide does not have any differentiating qualities other than wattage and spectral output.
-Sodiums and Iodines are not suitable for our hobby, so I'll state that commercial building or parking lot metal halides be steered clear of.
Now, why choose one fluorescent over another? Why choose fluorescents at all? Why not go for it and install metal halides? Or for that matter, why not pick up a power compact and leave all the controversy behind? It is these very questions that plague many hobbyists. Most of us plan on spending and investing in a lighting system only once, and want it to be right the first time! I shed a little more light on this very issue in PART-2, discussing in detail the fundamentals of fluorescent lighting such as wattages, the CRI (Color Rendition Index), and "K" (Kelvin).
(CONT. PART-2)
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