New sump Fuge mock ups !!!!

Civicdemon

Go Big Or Go Home !
Ok so i had another post but i wanted to start a new one. HEres my 2 mock ups.

Since i can go any longer than 25 inches i decided to go with a 2 part sump fuge, that way i can have more volume and i can actually fit it in under the stand.

So here are my 2 drowings. LOL Used Paint.

MOck up number one
The cheaper route using 2 glass tanks.
Likes- cheaper, and i can run a inline UV steralizer on the return pump line.
Dislikes - other return pump can fail and my cause floode if it does not hold plenty of volume, also fine tunning the gate valves will be more of a pain.


SUPFUGE.jpg


Mock up 2

Likes, One pump, Wont flood will hold plenty of volume.
Dislikes, more expensive would have to use acrylic because drilling glass might crack.

SUPFUGE2.jpg


So anyways whats your guys is input on these, what do you think would be best.
 
I would go with #2. Many people have drilled glass without an issue. Just take your time. I would still make sure to add the valves on both sides of the intake likes just so you can fine tune exactly how much flow can go to each side. With doing this you will be able to use the same size pipe all the way around.

#1 is a guarantee that it will flood. You will never be able to match the flow correctly to keep things operating.
 
#2. Like Kev said, #1 will flood in no time.

Have you considered using rubbermade/plastic tubs from the hardware store instead? That would save a lot of money and hassle, and they are easy to put holes in. Especially for the refugium. Just use a bucket or tub for it instead of its own tank. No drilling would even be required if you put the refugium slightly higher than the sump, then have a small pump like a MaxiJet bringing water to the refugium, and then have a pipe or tube put in the side of the refugium using gravity to bring it back to the sump. That's how I had the sump and fuge set up for my 90.

Also, the refugium does not need a bubble trap.
 
My reasoning for the buble trap in the refugium is so that none off my plats go thru the. Pipes to the sump or any snails. I was going to put spunge inbetwen the trap that way no plants snails ect make it to the sump portion.
 
+1 for #2

only suggestion.

remove the ball valve from the return, not really necessary. The pump will dictate the return GPM. Keep the return line 1" dont reduce to 3/4".

Also. for mine, my return line feeds my refuigium ( I dont use the drain coming from the tank). I have a gate on it so I can control the flow, the opening of the flow into the refugium is half under water and half above water... this way there is no turbulance creating mico bubbles.

IMG_7785-1-1.jpg
 
Well from what i ja e read its best for the water from the DT to go to the fuge first before being skimmed thats why i have go e with the split at the overflow and not at the rwturn
 
Looks like a great set up. With unfortunate planning my sump will have to be separate from my stand. This could be interesting lol
 
only suggestion.

remove the ball valve from the return, not really necessary. The pump will dictate the return GPM. Keep the return line 1" dont reduce to 3/4".

I would leave the ball valve in there. Just not for restricting flow, I would use it to shut off the water when you need to remove the pump for cleaning. No need to let the tank back flow every time you need to shut the pump off. :twocents:
 
Yeah i think i might have found a place to Get my 2 seprate tanks for the fuge and sump made for under 250 $$$ im like yey !!!! lol.

I really cant wait to get the sump going, i finally got rid of my diatom problem, ( Not using water from my LFS any more ) Making my own with RODI unit and Oceanic salt mix. But now i have a bit of a green algea problem, mostly on the glass and a little bit on the Sand bed.
So im hopping ones i get my sump fuge all set up with Chaeto, that will help. Not to mettion i will be able to get a in sump protein skimmer.
 
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