New with some questions (photos too)

also some emerald crabs for cleaning your coral/rocks and some sand sifters serpent star (not the green one), scarlet hermits, nassasarius snails...check out the article archive they've got a pretty good list there
 
Congrats on the first corals:D
One thing to remember when it comes to ammonia test kits,is that a lot of times,they'll show a trace of ammonia where it should actually show 0.But the fact that those zoos are opening,says that your tank has cycled.
All the CUC suggestions above are great.But add them slow.You want just enough to keep the tank clean.
 
Sweet, yeah I'm building a ten gallon sump too, some people might say well that's a little small but I don't think so, it'll do the job. Besides it would be quite impossible for me to slide something bigger beneath the tank at this point especially since I can't move the tank. But it's going to have 3 compartments, I want to do a small trickle filter with bio media in the first one, second one for protein skimmer and heater, third one for the return pump which will be divided from the skimmer section by baffles.
 
10 gallons for a 55 DT is perfectly fine, even though we often mention: the more water volume the better, a sump at minimum is really only supposed to be 15% of the main tank. Your 10 gallon is closer to 20% which is fine.
 
A 10 gallon sump is just fine,As long as it'll hold the skimmer,heater,and return pump,that makes it just about perfect.
And the reason you dont need the bio-media,is because your live rock and sand will take care of that job and do better than bio-balls will.
 
Yeah but like that's the whole plus of getting a sump is to provide even more filtration and stuff. As long as I cleaned them often would they not be ok, and at least with the state of my algae now I'm not having to currently worry about nitrates. The more filtration the better especially since the sump increases the volume of the tank.

Anyways, I got 3 blue legged hermit crabs and a turbo snail today from petco. I know that's not a lot of clean of critters/crew considering how big my tank is but I'm waiting to see how they do. How many turbo snails and crabs would you recommend for effective cleaning, like 3 more snails maybe and a couple more little crabs? The snail today cleaned a ton of algae off this one rock.
 
If you want a good added bio filter, make a refuge, plants not only remove excess nutrients, but benefit your tank as well, and do not require cleaning. Lastly, macro algae like chaeto, can be grown for food for your live stock as well.

As for CUC additions, I'd say get two emerald crabs, 1 more turbo, 10 astrea snails, 10 nassarius snails, two cleaner shrimp (peppermint or skunk, your choice), maybe like 10 red hermits, and some sort of deritus eating sea-star that will also help keep your sand sifted, maybe something like this Saltwater Aquarium Starfish for Marine Reef Aquariums: Red & Black Sea Star. The main thing to do is keep it diverse and add it in small amounts at a time. The last thing you want to do is get this awesome CUC that cleans your tank one day and starves the next, but also want to keep it diverse so that you have a wide variety of appetites and surface preferences.
 
nothing. Most people just dont take the time to clean them. The same thing with canister filters. Personally I like working on my tanks so spending time cleaning my filters gives me something to do with my tanks and helps keep me from constantly rearranging the rocks.
 
+1 Kid and Ted

I am running a wet/dry on my tank.But I swap out the media pads daily.Just rinse the dirty one out and let it dry.I also have bio-balls in there to quieten the water down since the tanks in the bedroom.But I give them a high pressure rinse with the water hose every time I do a water change.But most folks want a tank that all they have to do is watch the fish swim around and sprinkle in some food.
Theres nothing wrong with an method you use to filter the tank,you just have to keep in mind that some need more maintance than others.
 
Like others have said, there's nothing wrong with them as long as you put the time in to clean them properly. I just don't recommend that type of filtration to "newbies" in the hobby because it is a lot of extra work, and I don't want people to get discouraged from this hobby because they think it's so much cleaning and maintenance. If you are willing to put in the time cleaning, that's fine, but a lot of people aren't.
 
Well I actually get bored by doing nothing, I like projects so if I were to just let my tank sit there I would get really bored.
 
Thats why the time it takes to cycle the tank,is perfect for reading and researching on what you want to stock with:D
 
Already so for the sump, how high should I make the baffles, I guess as I high as I want the water level to be in the sump correct? And speaking of that, what do I want the water level to be (or how much room should I allow for overflow.

Also, if the entrance to the sump is a bioballs chamber how much room do I have to leave between the bioballs and the water or is it ok for the bottom part to be submerged?
 
Already so for the sump, how high should I make the baffles, I guess as I high as I want the water level to be in the sump correct? And speaking of that, what do I want the water level to be (or how much room should I allow for overflow.
The problem here is that you not only have to account for the amount of water left in the tubes in case of a power outage, but also how far the water level in the DT is going to fall so that is no longer going to expell through both your drain and return lines. Easiest thing to do is to test it and measure, but if you want to do the math, then let us know and we can give you the formulas you will need to calculate the water volumes.
 
Well I guess the question was really, doesn't my baffle height set my internal water level and therefore I can't build it before building the baffles.
 
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