Ferric Iron is ferric iron, it is hard to get good or better ferric iron. Fluidized filtration is good filtration, I have not really noticed any phosphate reactors except fluidized reactors being offered for sale. You can have fluidized filtration with some pretty slow flow, just add no more than recommended to chamber at one time. Use a little and change it more often works best. Even loosing a little powder into the tanks will have negligible effect in comparison to the advantages of having the media fluidized. I just use Drs. Foster and Smith house brand for feeric iron as it is cheap and works as well as any other Ihave used. I do not use or errecommend aluminum based phosphate removers. Ferric iron should only really be used when you need it. You should make attempts at controlling the inputs of phosphate so that the ferric iron is not needed regularly. By controlling phosphate inputs you are typically also controlling other inputs. Most phosphates come from foods and tap water, or come with your live rock and live sand. Use good RO or RODI water, do not feed the liquids from frozen foods, do not used flake foods and try to avoid dry foods and pellets. Use phosphate absorbers anytime you add new live rock or live sand or move your live rock or live sand. Phosphate absorbers will not lessen diatomic algae when you have high levels of silicates. Actually controlling phosphates is really one of the last approaches to contolling any type of algae. Before controlling phopahte control of nitrogens, dissolved oxygen (circulation) should be dealt with as phosphate is usually not the limiting agent as very little phosphate is needed for algae growth.
