Reef Keeper 2 Controller

fatman

Reefing newb
:bounce: I just yesterday got the new controler I ordered 8 days ago. Marine Depot was slow in shipping as usual. I am still amazed at the small size of the control unit. The main control is only about the size of a pack of cigarettes or smaller. A Cat 5 cable (like a phone cable) runs from the controller to a power strip about the same size as a small surge suppressor outlet strip. The Temperature gauge, an optional pH probe plug and the Cat 5 cable from the control unit plug into it. It plugs into a standard wall outlet.
The bad part. A week or so ago when I bought it through Marine depot it did not mention things like a splicer adapter needed to use the pH meter while the controller was hooked to your computer. It will work fine with out being hooked up to the computer, but one of the good aspects of this controller at such a cheap price is its flexibility when hugged up to your computer. When hooked up to your computer, if you have a web page you can monitor your tanks pH, temp and anything run by the controller, plus have viewing through web cameras with camera switching capabilities for different views. I ordered the splicer so I should be able to say in another week or two just how well their software is for the controller monitoring and its ability to control multiple cameras.
Another bad aspect. The soft ware disk Aqua Medic supplied with the Reef Keeper 2 could not be read by my Windows Professional XP operating system so I had to go to their site and download all the software and manuals. Of course the manuals were all PDF documents that were huge memory documents so had to be printed in parts as my printer likes to dump any printing job larger than 500 mega bytes.
Physically, ever thing seems well made of good materials, even the cords are heavy and well insulated and well protected by grommets where they go into the case. I ordered a Pinpoint Ph probe for it as I already use them on other equipment. I also ordered the heavy weight expansion socket for it as is recommended for large wattage halides and chillers or heaters. The controller outlet strip is rated for 15 amps, and when you use a expansion socket you have the 15 amps plus the expansion outlets 15 amps as a new capacity etc., etc. for additional expansion sockets. Each expansion socket is a duplex outlet.
:^:
 
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fatman,

I know you are very thorough with your research. Why did you choose the reef keeper over an Aquacontroller. Did you choose the reef keeper because of the lower price?
 
It will do the same things as an Aquacontroller Jr. and more, except it is not a controller for X-10 units, which have to many problems typically. It has web capabilities that the Aquacontroller Jr. does not have. Its power strip is better as it has two high amperage relay circuits that can carry high inductive loads, IE. large pumps and chiller compressors or just high wattage users like lighting if you do to use a expansion module. Even its electrical expansion model typically used with halides (or any high wattage lighting) is made better and is cheaper. It has channel over ride switches right on the face of the controller. It uses Category 5 cables which are cheap to purchase that allow your controller to be anywhere in the building that a cable the size of a phone cable can reach and it can still be hooked up to a computer in another spot within cables reach. The software is being upgraded and the upgrades are readily available on line at no cost. And yes the price is much better than the other controllers. The $450 model due out this fall appears as if it will surpass anything that the other controllers are capable of and at a cheaper price. I also believe the Aquamedic people are more concerned with keeping their equipment upgraded/upgradeable and updated than are Aquacontroller or others. However, like I said they are not for use with X-10 units, but I do not use X-10 units nor would I suggest their use generally, they have to many restrictions to their successful use. Plus the language for programming is simple english with the reefkeeper, not augorythms as on Aquacontrollers. Basic programming knowledge is not necessary with an Reefkeeper 2. Actually not really any logical deduction, just plug and chug.
 
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It consolidates all the cord clutter, and does away with multiple timers, it provides constant pH and temperature readings, it controls your heater(s) and cooling fans (plus a chiller) automatically, it turns light(s) off when the temperature gets to hot for your fans to control (first one light then another or however you choose), it will control pumps and power heads like a wave maker would, it will control a calcium reactors CO2 usage, it will control what hours your ATO system or Kalwasser drip/pump runs, it wil turn on or off any of these controls with the push of a single button, and turn the program back on where it left off with a push of that same button. And all of this can be data logged on your computer to put out pretty little graphs/tables so that you can see how things have changed over time, and how changes you make have effected things. All these things can be tied to a web page so that you can see whether things are running while you are away and they can be turned on and off from a remote computer. The web page application even allows you to use web cams to view your tank or whatever. Plus downloads of improvements are always available free of charge. The newer model even has ORP, and I believe dissolved oxygen monitoring capability. Plus a battery backup to store all your programming and data in case of a power outage. Oh and it has power up for you halide users. When the power goes out to a halide it will start a timer and will wait 10 or 15 minutes for the bulb(s) to cool down before trying to start the light(s) up. It allows the viewing of all this on your computer and a back lit control panel.
 
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