ro/di facts from the experts

alharrison

Reefing newb
My son is the service tech supervisor for a large comercial and industrial water purification company. He gave me a few tips for my RO/DI unit. I haven't seen these tips on the forum yet so I hope they will help some of you. I connected my RO/DI unit in my basement and then I ran a line upstairs next to my tank. My son told me do not use clear tubing for the line. Ro/DI water is so clean and pure, as soon as you run it through the line it will immediatly start growing bacteria, and with a clear tubing and light it will start growing algae real quick. If you go to Lowes they sell a black tubing. Also when you first start running your filter for a water change you throw out the first 10 minutes or so of water. That first few minutes of water will have any bacteria thats formed in the filter since the last time you ran your RO/DI, and running it for a few minutes will flush it out.
 
That doesnt make any sense, there is nothing in the water that should allow algae to grow. Plants need more than water to survive and the point of RO/DI is to remove the excess nutrients that all for them to grow
 
I don't know the science behind it, but my son says that when you remove everything from the water there is nothing to protect the water from starting bacteria growth very quickly. He's been installing and servicing water systems for labs, hospitals,dialysis centers and industrial companies for over twenty years so I have no reason to doubt him.
 
That doesnt make any sense, there is nothing in the water that should allow algae to grow. Plants need more than water to survive and the point of RO/DI is to remove the excess nutrients that all for them to grow

+1 l-fish
I know I have placed RODI water in a empty distilled water container and left it out exposed to light cycles for weeks and when I open it, it is as fresh as the moment I filled it.



As for the first bit of water being "bad", we call that "short cycle water". We don't let our RODI systems set for long (as in weeks) between usage. So we try to draw off a quantity of water at each draw. This is why we fill a tank with RODI water above our sumps, then ATO (Auto Top Off) our evaporation water from that tank, ... to short cycle the RODI less often. If the water was very seriously bacteria loaded it would show at our TDS meters. Bacteria in water conducts electricity, as do the proteins & the chemistry which support bacteria, and would most certainly read at the meter. Pure water does not conduct electricity,.. my TDS reads .000 at the start of a cycle, as do most of our systems... this is why we do the DI stage. The reason for concern about short cycles is not bacteria it is because of the impure water resting at the input end and waste side of the RO membrane (which could contain a small trace amount of bacteria but does not have a light source) leaching into the membrane a little... tiny bit.... and then that is splitting hairs. .. and in reefing we do split hairs... for purity of water.

As Little Fish said and is qualified to know, bacteria has to have a food source... :dunno:

However all professional tips are welcome, so don't take this as a put down, please!
Among the forum members you will find plenty of professional or retired professional members... ie: doctors, vets, engineers, chemists, biologists, scientists, micro chemists, and the list goes on. There is power in group skills and knowledge... !!
 
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The reason algae and bacteria can grow in the lines is because it can enter the system through the end of the line.

At least that is what the drinking water systems sold say... Maybe they are just playing CYA because people are drinking the water.
 
Remember that everything past (downstream) of the outside of the carbon block is dechlorinated. RO membranes and DI resin beds have a tendency to develop microbial growths - this is where the suggestion to sanitize your system at least once a year comes from:

Sanitize.jpg


Russ
 
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