RO/Di Gravity Fed/Float Valve Questions/Ideas!!!

phastroh

Do Not Listen To Me!!!
My RO/Di is on the other side of my house. Even though still in the front side, it is still on the other side. I have 6 - 3 gallon water jugs I fill and refill my 20 Gallon top off tank about every 4-5 days which I am getting sick of.

It is on the other side of my house in the passage out to the garage. I removed the tub sink and installed a real cabinet and sink so I can dispense water to my house and to the tank water jugs.

I am going to move the RO/DI unit upstairs. I have a large Bonus Room with a bathroom which also leads into the walk in Attic that has a floor and walls.

Anyway that bathroom is right above the master bath which on the other side is the LARGE ASS walk in mostly filled with my wife 400000000 shoes and clothes. I think I have one pair of undies in there haha. :mrgreen:

So anyway my tank is on the other side of the wall so I am having my sisters boyfriend run the line down the wall and put a valve so I never have to fill another DAMN jug again.

I was thinking of a scenario where the water never stops even with a float valve if it fails. Let me lay this out and tell me what you think.

PLAN A
1) I can change back to my 10 Gal tank for more room.
2) Have the line come into the 10 Gal and install 2 shut off valves.
One to stop the RO/DI where I want it to stay to keep the water pump safe which also has its own safety shut-off based on water level.
Number 2 just above the first one in case it fails. This one will stay dry unless the first one fails.
3) There is of course the Float that is already in the return section of the sump.

PLAN B
1) Remove the top-off tank and just have the RO/DI fill directly into the return section of the tank.
2) This will not allow me to have but one float valve in place, and it that fails I guess I could install a second back-up and hang it in the sump just above the first one. It will stay dry as well so it should not get any growth on it that is the typical reason for float valve failure.

My main concern is not coming home to a flood because the RO/DI didn't shut off.

I also need a manual way to shut the RO/DI from down stairs so that say I do some maintenance or whatever the RO/DI doesn't start adding water I do not need.

I noticed if my skimmer goes crazy due to whatever the reason the Auto Top-Off fills the tank for a second when it is just due to the skimmer making excess foam and not evaporation.

I thought there was a more reliable form of float valve instead of one that actually uses a float that can get stuck.
 
I'm curious to see what you come up with. Pictures would be nice. ;) I have a similar situation and it does get old refilling the ATO jug. I'm going to the Bahamas for 2 weeks and it worries me about not having enough water in the ATO for that many days. I'm also a little worried about the RODI unit over filling my tank and causing a flood while I'm gone.
 
While I have not done anything yet I spoke with this guy who I was asking to do it.

He said he normally uses something like what is on the back of a toilet for a float valve but I told him I can't have that in my tank haha.

All I know is that I will be taking pix of anything I do and I am pumped to redo the hoses for my Carbo Reactor and my 2LF GFO Reactor. I just want them with hard line perched on the sump dribbling where I want them to into the Fuge.

I can finally have more room under the stand as well when I remove the 20 Gal tall.

Then eventually I want to swap out my 75Gal sump for a smaller one made of acylic so I can get my skimmer out without having to drain the sump and take it out with the skimmer in it. I need to probably soak it here is a few months so maybe that is when I will get the sump.

Gonna price one here shortly. I know some builders.
 
I use gravity ATO and install one of these in my sump.
hydro-logic-float-valve-for-tall-boy-3-8in.jpg


FWIW, if this is gonna fail, chances are it's going to fail in the off position.
And they are cheap enough to replace periodically.
But if you can figure out how to have a dual setup, that would be best.
 
Ok after much research and other stuff I have decided against the RO/Di system straight into the sump.

The bad outweighs the convenience by far but.......

After reading Melve's site I totally agree with his suggestion as this will still eliminate the carrying of the bottles which of course is the whole reason I wanted to do this.

I am just going to run the line that I fill the bottles with straight to the Top Off tank.

Then I can manually fill that tank and eliminate the carrying of the bottles and I can fill it daily or every 3 days. Whatever I choose and never carry a thing.

What a great idea and much safer. The only way for an overflo is if I forget to shut it off. I want to use the Top Off tank because if I did it to the sump I would have to fill daily instead of every 4 days using my 20Gal Auto Top Off tank.

My next issue is that I am not moving it upstairs. Too risky if the RO/DI has a problem.

I am pretty sure after talking to Dennis on his RO/DI line that I can run it in my attic and across my house to the tank and just put a cable wire box where the line comes out. No issues on PSI either.
 
Ok so I went to the store yesterday and got the supplies I will need for this time saving and work eliminating set-up.

I purchased the following.

1 - In wall self tightening Box
1 - Cable wire wall plate(screw into the self tightening box)
50 Feet of 1/4 water line
1 - 1/4 water line to 1/2 PVC converter
1 - 1/2 threaded to 1/2 PVC pipe converter(screws into the water line/PVC converter)
1 - 1/4 Water Line splitter.

The attached diagram should explain the whole set-up but I will explain a few things.

Since I am tired of carrying 6, 3 gallon jugs each week and having to store them in my wash room I first was going to put a float valve to feed my RO directly into the sump.

After much reading and thinking I found the problems whether rare or not out weight the convenience and decided this was is just as convenient and much safer. After all eliminating the carrying of the water bottles is the main thing here.

So I am going to run my water line from the RO up in the attic and with a walk in attic it is so much easier. I will split the line(not at first) one to the fridge and the other to my Auto Top Off tank.

The water line will come out behind the tank. I will be using one of those self or screw tightening boxes that allows you to place boxes where there are no wood beams and place a cable wire plate over top and it will be tight and secure. These boxes are fantastic and work perfect. Just tighten that screws and it snugs against the drywall secure enough for even electrical outlets.

The 1/4 water line will slide right in the hole :mrgreen: with a small amount of shaving with an exacto blade. and I may or may not epoxy it in place.

From there it will screw right into a 1/2 PVC and then a PVC pipe with a ball valve in the middle before more PVC and a 90 degree elbow and small bit of 1/2 PVC again to keep the splashing down.

The end result will be the ability to just turn the valve and let the Top Off tank fill back up during feedings or whenever I am not going to forget.

The one thing I thought about is that I can do this a few times a week and with it being such an easy thing to do I won't just want to only do it 1 time a week. If I let it go so be it. All I know is that it will eliminate the carrying of those darn 3 gallon jugs all the time.

Of course I will still leave my original outlet to my sink and the one that hangs into my Brute cans for water changes.

So there you have it folks, an easy solution that many of you may find is just up your alley.

I will add pix as I do the work so you can see the process and success(I hope)


Water-Line-Set-Up by Phastroh1, on Flickr
 
If it was me, i would attach a float valve to your top off tank.
Just like this.
kv-installationdiagram.jpg


And then hook the 1/4" water line into a shut off valve like this before going into the float valve.
PPSV041212W.jpg


Also, you do not want to drink RO/DI water, if that's why you are sending to the fridge.
 
Not a bad alternative but I still don't want to put all my stuff in the hands of a shut off valve. I am fine refilling the top off tank as long as I don't have to carry the jugs.

The only part I may change is the valve because as I have noticed all the ball valves seem to be a pain in the ass to turn sometimes.

My deadlifts are plenty of lifting every week haha.

As far as drinking it I have been for years. I am into healthy foods and protein and weight lifting so I don't care if the minerals are not in it. On the other hand I was seriously considering hooking up my spare 3x UV and bi-passing the DI to the fridge.

Bacteria is my main concern so the UV should do it and then of course skipping the DI should also be better for taste although mine never tastes funny and I get compliments from everyone.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, you are not supposed to drink RODI water. That's why drinking water sold in stores is only RO, not RODI. :) RO water is perfectly fine to drink, but RODI water is too pure and can strip the mucous linings of your mouth and throat over time. It's not about taste -- it's about osmosis and there being too much of a difference between the mineral content of your tissues and the mineral content of the water. Water will move across a gradient whenever there is a difference in mineral content from one thing to another (that is osmosis). So if you drink RODI water, the water will be drawn into your flesh to try and correct the imbalance and over time your tissues can become damaged, swollen and cells can even rupture.
 
Not a bad alternative but I still don't want to put all my stuff in the hands of a shut off valve.

I agree.
But i guarantee you that, more than once, you will get sucked into something on TV or worse, and you will completely forget you were filling that thing up. Trust me. ;)
Better to err on the side of caution and install a float valve as a backup.
 
Here are some articles about the chronic health problems that can result from drinking "ultra pure" water:

Health effects of Reverse Osmosis Water | The Truth of Water – Answers
Is it Safe To Drink RO Water?? You'd be surprised.. - 3reef Forums
SnyderHealth.com - Water Ionizers - The Dangers Of Distilled And RO Water

The last article is good -- it's written by doctors and has lots of medical references, since you say you are big into health and stuff. :)

And according to this thread, you shouldn't be drinking water from an RO or RODI unit unless you are frequently disinfecting it, since studies have shown that bacteria build up to huge concentrations on the membranes and in the tubing. In tap water, chlorine is used to kill off the bacteria, but since the RODI unit removes the chlorine, there is nothing to prevent bacteria colonies from taking over.

Drinking RO/DI? - Reef Central Online Community
 
Here are some articles about the chronic health problems that can result from drinking "ultra pure" water:

Health effects of Reverse Osmosis Water | The Truth of Water – Answers
Is it Safe To Drink RO Water?? You'd be surprised.. - 3reef Forums
SnyderHealth.com - Water Ionizers - The Dangers Of Distilled And RO Water

The last article is good -- it's written by doctors and has lots of medical references, since you say you are big into health and stuff. :)

And according to this thread, you shouldn't be drinking water from an RO or RODI unit unless you are frequently disinfecting it, since studies have shown that bacteria build up to huge concentrations on the membranes and in the tubing. In tap water, chlorine is used to kill off the bacteria, but since the RODI unit removes the chlorine, there is nothing to prevent bacteria colonies from taking over.

Drinking RO/DI? - Reef Central Online Community

Wow. :shock: I guess in some people's quest for purity they can overdo it. Sometimes the impurities are good for you.
 
Yeah but a few articles are more scary than some.

Some make it sound like no big deal as long as you eat enough good healthy foods like myself.

Still though I will probably not drink it at least after the DI part and I want to research going straight from the RO to my 3x UV then to my Fridge.

I do not know if the 3X will cut it. I know a plumber who can probably shed some light on that as compared to the UV the would typically use for these things.

Until then no more water from there. I usually chug 32OZ every other day during weight lifting and then sometimes more for other stuff like my Crystal Light.

Booo sink water it is.
 
My tap water tastes gross. It has a very high TDS (between 400 and 500) and tons of metals in it in Tucson. I use a Brita filter for drinking water, just for the taste.
 
I agree.
But i guarantee you that, more than once, you will get sucked into something on TV or worse, and you will completely forget you were filling that thing up. Trust me. ;)
Better to err on the side of caution and install a float valve as a backup.

You know I have not run the water hose yet but every once in a while I think about what you said and I think using a float as a back-up in not a bad idea.

I can still do it manually and like you said for any reason I forget I will most likely be saved by the float and I don't have to rely on it and I surely do not want to get in the habit of relying on it.

I split the line before the DI canister and also before the T head for the TDS Meter for the water line that runs to the storage tank and up to the faucet.

I thought I would lose the pressure coming out of the line after the DI canister but I didn't.

My only concern now is that the water pressure is now being put on the water before the DI Canister and not after it, so how will that effect the Resin and its effectiveness.

I am not sure of the mechanics of it all, like the water in the canister can't back-flo and the be pushed thorough the DI canister I don't think so how it has pressure unless that is the case is not something I can figure out.

I attached a diagram to show the set up.

Again I know the pressure tank will cause pressure on the whole system but how can it still expel 3 gallons of water at full pressure after the DI Canister without forcing it back through the system and through the DI canister. Just feel like it will not be good for the DI Canister although the pressure on those tanks is only like 10 PSI so not much higher and my water pressure gauge coming in is about 65PSI. Maybe it won't bother it anyway.


RO-Set-Up by Phastroh1, on Flickr
 
Last edited:
This is just a guide for anyone who wants to run the RO/DI line from one side of their house to the other and keep it neat and clean looking. I will be adding to final steps tonight but have most of it here now.

Just like many of you out there I was sick of carrying bottles every 4 days to fill up my Auto Top Off tank. Time between filling up and the amount of bottles will vary depending on various things but one to me is one too many at this point.


So here is what I purchased to do the job. You actual supply list may vary depending on what you have available and what you will need from the list.

60 feet of RO water line. (1/4 inch)
2 1/4 Inch RO water connecters
1 1/4 RO Water Valves(open and closes the water line for use)
2 Self tightening electric boxes
2 Cable Line Box Covers(orange Boxes in pix)
1 Super Glue Gel
1 Exacto Blade Knife
1 Wire pulling/fishing tool

Before you start I suggest you make sure you can drop the water lines where you want to have them exit in the wall. Once that is determined and you know or think it will work it is time for step one.

STEP 1) Using a level and a flat drill bit I marked and drilled the four corners of the wall plate hole. I then used a hand drywall saw to cut out the perfect squares for these units to rest inside.

STEP 2) We went up in the attic and found the 2 places we needed to drop the RO Water line down into the wall. Now this part of the job I did not take any photos because it was too hard to do that in an attic. You can stand in mine but the gymnastics like moves needed to drill one of the holes will not help you at all.

After you drill the headers you can use a flashlight downstairs to try to see the light where you made holes for the orange boxes.

In my case I already new about the cross members so I knew seeing that light was not happening. Lucking I had electric lines installed at one location next the where I was installing the water lines so I followed the already drilled holes.

Once the lines are down and out of the holes you made for the orange boxes, make sure they are secure and out of the way. I had to lay mine in the back of the walk-in attic so they were not kicked or cut by accident. You will have a big problem then. The water lines are thick but not indestructible.

STEP 3) Take you wall plate and use the exacto blade to lightly carve the hole bigger to allow the 1/4 inch connectors to tightly fit in. You just want the ends to stick out like in the photo.

STEP 4) Using the Super Glue Gel put a nice bead around both sides of the wall plate and try to be neat. You can use a small corner of cardboard to smooth it around in down inside.

When this dries it will hold the water connector easily. Note though: Do not going yanking on this like it is all one piece. The glue will hold it in place well but when removing and inserting the lines, just remove the 2 screws that hold the plate and remove the lines by holding the connector. A small job to save you from breaking it.

I was unable to locate a plate specifically for this use so that is why I made it this way and it works as needed and looks great. It just needs to use with some form of care.

STEP 5) Connect the water lines on both side of the 1/4 Water Connector and screw the wall plate on.

STEP 6) Turn all you water back on and make sure it all is working.

Just few other notes to consider.

1 - Make sure when you are connecting the water lines that they are inserted properly and far enough. You do not want a leak in the wall you can't see.

2 - After you run the line initially, connect the water line to your system and make sure it makes it out the other side into a bucket. Then cut the water supply to the unit and let the water pressure out of the system by opening the line. This saves you water spills like the small one I found. It seems to save whatever water is in the last section coming down from the attic from back pressure and can come out when you do not want it to.

3 - Be sure like me and install a control valve on the side before it first enters the wall by the RO/DI system and of course one on the exit side where you will be controlling the water.

Doing this will allow you to cut the water running in your walls and attic in case of an emergency. If you do not install the first one and there is a problem the only way to stop the flow during a leak is to pull the hose directly out of the system and then you have to shut the water coming onto the system as well or that will also flood out.

You can also use the first valve in conjunction with the second outlet valve all the time so that you have to open both to use the system. THis way when you aren't home and for any reason there is a leak due to a leaky second valve or if a rat chews the line you will only leak what is in the RO/DI line and not however how much until your ceiling falls in.

I hope you enjoyed this so far and I will post the final photos tonight.



Wall-Plate-New by Phastroh1, on Flickr


4 In-Line by Phastroh1, on Flickr



Tank Wall by Phastroh1, on Flickr



System Wall by Phastroh1, on Flickr



TDS Wall Not Done by Phastroh1, on Flickr



4 by Phastroh1, on Flickr



Wall-Plate by Phastroh1, on Flickr



TDS Wall by Phastroh1, on Flickr



Full System by Phastroh1, on Flickr
 
Back
Top