AnthonyTheNewbie
Reef enthusiast
Is that a gonipora or alveopora? Tanks looks awesome though! Nice growth! :)
Rockstacker's 120g Build
- Thread starter RockStacker
- Start date
RockStacker
Reefing newb
Thanks.
It is an alveopora and so far it seems to be happy. The skeleton at the top is starting to branch out so when the polyps retract at night it looks like a stubby "Y".
I also added a goniopora around the same time and that one eventually faded away and I'm stuck with a skeleton ball mounted on live rock.
If you are itching for a goniopora, I highly recommend trying an alveopora. In my experience they are more durable, grow faster and are more aggressive feeders compared to goniopora.
It is an alveopora and so far it seems to be happy. The skeleton at the top is starting to branch out so when the polyps retract at night it looks like a stubby "Y".
I also added a goniopora around the same time and that one eventually faded away and I'm stuck with a skeleton ball mounted on live rock.
If you are itching for a goniopora, I highly recommend trying an alveopora. In my experience they are more durable, grow faster and are more aggressive feeders compared to goniopora.
noy
Reefing newb
just had a chance to look through your thread - nice setup!
AnthonyTheNewbie
Reef enthusiast
I have a flowerpot already lol. Had it for quite some time already. I don't feed each polyp individually, but I do place a 2L bottle over it and spot feed just it 2-3 times a week. It's been doing great lol. Thanks for the advice though :)
chichimom79
reef junkie
Try putting that chalice in lower light. I think it will color back up for you.
RockStacker
Reefing newb
Thanks. I will move it closer to the sand bed and see how it goes.
It has been growing fast where it was, so I did not want to mess with it too much.
I thought that the outer skirt was still all flesh. But when I touched it to check how much it had encrusted on the rock, I found out that the entire plate was calcified - the even the outer skirt had a thin layer of skeleton already.
I will need to be careful with dislodging the chalice from the rock. I do not want to injure it or break the skeleton.
RockStacker
Reefing newb
Video Update Time!
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-szCh4CD3zI"]2013-07-11 100 Gallon Tank Update - YouTube[/ame]
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-szCh4CD3zI"]2013-07-11 100 Gallon Tank Update - YouTube[/ame]
AnthonyTheNewbie
Reef enthusiast
Tank looks awesome bud :)
Civicdemon
Go Big Or Go Home !
Do you have other lights on your LEDS ???? and also how are you using the controller on your LEDS just as a timer or does it actually dim them and stuff like that ??
RockStacker
Reefing newb
My LEDs just have the the blue 460nm, and white 20,000K banks. (As with all off-brand eBay hardware, actual performance may vary from printed specifications LOL)
The blues are set to about 40%, and whites around 20% (analog dials)
No dimmer, the controller just turns them on/off based on the time.
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Civicdemon
Go Big Or Go Home !
O wow yours are that low. I jave cheap chinese bow also nut mine are.full spectrum. I jave tje.blues at 50% and whites maybe 55 to 60% . Mine are also dimmable witj the analog knobs . But i was wondering couse it looks like you have another light tube attached to each og you.units. maybe used as moon lights ???
RockStacker
Reefing newb
Oh, those are just accent light kits that I use for moonlights.
They are very weak, like 0.8 watts per tube or something.
I might ramp up the lights slowly, but I doubt I will want to get the whites more than 40% since my tank is mostly LPS and softies.
If I get the blues more than 50% the corals start looking weird - like props in a glow party.
BTW:
Just because it is 20% on the analog dial does not necessarily mean 20% power being delivered to the lights. I do not know how precise the electronics are on this fixture.
The knob may be at 20% but the lights might be near 50% :)
I'm just playing it by ear (well, eyes) and seeing how the corals react when I ramp up the lights slowly over time.
They are very weak, like 0.8 watts per tube or something.
I might ramp up the lights slowly, but I doubt I will want to get the whites more than 40% since my tank is mostly LPS and softies.
If I get the blues more than 50% the corals start looking weird - like props in a glow party.
BTW:
Just because it is 20% on the analog dial does not necessarily mean 20% power being delivered to the lights. I do not know how precise the electronics are on this fixture.
The knob may be at 20% but the lights might be near 50% :)
I'm just playing it by ear (well, eyes) and seeing how the corals react when I ramp up the lights slowly over time.
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Civicdemon
Go Big Or Go Home !
Yeah thats how i.did.it started out at 20% and moved up a.bit every 3 weeks then when.i noticed a little bleaching i turned them back down and left them there.
But yeah.i used car accent lights for my moon lights. They work pretty good onky realky turn them on when im home to watch the tank at night. But yeah keep up tje good work the tank looks awsome.
But yeah.i used car accent lights for my moon lights. They work pretty good onky realky turn them on when im home to watch the tank at night. But yeah keep up tje good work the tank looks awsome.
RockStacker
Reefing newb
I have a couple of updates for my tank.
The first update is I moved the lights higher so that I get more even coverage on the tank.
I increased the LED intensities to compensate for the new distance.
I have also started increasing LED intensity for blues and whites at about 10% per week and observing how the corals respond.
So far the blues are at 60% and whites are at 35% and corals are doing great.
The first update is I moved the lights higher so that I get more even coverage on the tank.
I increased the LED intensities to compensate for the new distance.
I have also started increasing LED intensity for blues and whites at about 10% per week and observing how the corals respond.
So far the blues are at 60% and whites are at 35% and corals are doing great.
RockStacker
Reefing newb
Second update:
I added a Jebao WP40 pump.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xaztA4-saS4"]Jebao WP40 in a 100 gallon (long) aquarium - YouTube[/ame]
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKiqQKgTb0M"]Jebao WP40 Controller - YouTube[/ame]
All other circulation pumps have been turned off for this test.
The return pump from the sump is still running.
Current settings:
Mode: W1
Speed: S1
Wave interval: About 75% towards maximum duration.
This unit has the newer controller with the following settings available:
Modes
H1: Constant High (13,000LPH / ~3,400GPH)
H2: Constant Medium (not listed on the manual)
H3: Constant Low (4,300LPH / ~1,135GPH)
W1: Runs at preset speed (S1,S2,S3). Knob controls pulse intervals.
W2: Automatic Speed Up (6 steps) and speed down (6 steps). Knob controls duration of each step.
W3: Automatic Speed Up (6 steps) and speed down (8 steps). Knob controls duration of each step.
Else: Reef stream mode. Random speeds / Random intervals.
Speed settings (For mode W1)
S1: 100% speed.
S2: 75% speed.
S3: 50% speed.
Lock: Press and hold to lock the knob settings. This only seems to lock the knob, but not the mode and speed buttons.
Feed: Press and hold to stop the pump for 10 minutes. Press the Feed button again to cancel feed mode manually.
It looks like it is possible to create waves high enough to spill over the rim of my tank. So I had to experiment with the settings very carefully.
I have to say, for a $95.00 unit, this is pretty impressive.
My tank had 2x Hydor Koralia 1050 an 2x Hydor Koralia 550 and they did not produce this kind of water movement.
Comparing price:
Koralia 1050 = $50.00 x2 = $100.00
Koralia 1050 = $30.00 x2 = $60.00
Hydor Smartwave (which I do not have) = $65.00
Total = $225.00
Jebao WP40 = $95.00 x1 = $95.00
If this was available back when I was building my tank, I could have saved a lot of money by getting this instead of the Koralias.
I could have gotten two WP40's and still spent less than the Koralias + SmartWave.
So for my current setup, I intend to use the Koralias to cover any potential dead spots. But I do not see the need to use all four Koralias now.
I added a Jebao WP40 pump.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xaztA4-saS4"]Jebao WP40 in a 100 gallon (long) aquarium - YouTube[/ame]
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKiqQKgTb0M"]Jebao WP40 Controller - YouTube[/ame]
All other circulation pumps have been turned off for this test.
The return pump from the sump is still running.
Current settings:
Mode: W1
Speed: S1
Wave interval: About 75% towards maximum duration.
This unit has the newer controller with the following settings available:
Modes
H1: Constant High (13,000LPH / ~3,400GPH)
H2: Constant Medium (not listed on the manual)
H3: Constant Low (4,300LPH / ~1,135GPH)
W1: Runs at preset speed (S1,S2,S3). Knob controls pulse intervals.
W2: Automatic Speed Up (6 steps) and speed down (6 steps). Knob controls duration of each step.
W3: Automatic Speed Up (6 steps) and speed down (8 steps). Knob controls duration of each step.
Else: Reef stream mode. Random speeds / Random intervals.
Speed settings (For mode W1)
S1: 100% speed.
S2: 75% speed.
S3: 50% speed.
Lock: Press and hold to lock the knob settings. This only seems to lock the knob, but not the mode and speed buttons.
Feed: Press and hold to stop the pump for 10 minutes. Press the Feed button again to cancel feed mode manually.
It looks like it is possible to create waves high enough to spill over the rim of my tank. So I had to experiment with the settings very carefully.
I have to say, for a $95.00 unit, this is pretty impressive.
My tank had 2x Hydor Koralia 1050 an 2x Hydor Koralia 550 and they did not produce this kind of water movement.
Comparing price:
Koralia 1050 = $50.00 x2 = $100.00
Koralia 1050 = $30.00 x2 = $60.00
Hydor Smartwave (which I do not have) = $65.00
Total = $225.00
Jebao WP40 = $95.00 x1 = $95.00
If this was available back when I was building my tank, I could have saved a lot of money by getting this instead of the Koralias.
I could have gotten two WP40's and still spent less than the Koralias + SmartWave.
So for my current setup, I intend to use the Koralias to cover any potential dead spots. But I do not see the need to use all four Koralias now.
Aquarian
Reef pro
Wow that some nice movement.
Aquarian
Reef pro
I'm looking at the mp25 I wonder if its too much movement in my 36 bow front.
RockStacker
Reefing newb
Did you mean the WP25 (Jebao)?
If you are referring to the Vortech brand, they only come in MP10 and MP40.
For that size tank, I would go with the WP25.
The WP40 might be overkill for a 36gallon. And might be too bulky.
Here is a rough comparison of the max/min GPH values of the two pumps:
WP25 max: 2,000gph / min: 1,000gph
WP40 max: 3,400gph / min: 1,100gph
The WP25 is almost half the size of the WP40, but as you can see from the numbers above, performance is not cut in half.
The retail price of the WP25 is not half of the WP40 either :).
WP25 usually retails for around $80.00 while the WP40 retails for around $95.00.
From the various specifications that I have seen, the WP25 is not really the "little brother" of the WP40. It is more like a sleeker, more efficient version of the WP40 with a slight reduction in performance.
If you are buying one, make sure you get the one with the new controller. This is the one with the S1, S2 and S3 settings. The 1st generation controllers do not have these additional features.
Aquarian
Reef pro
Yes I meant the wp25. Thanks for the info
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