Seeking filtration advice

J

jaymclean

Reefing newb
Hi all. I'm new to the forum, so I apologize if this has been asked and addressed before. Basically, I have a 55gal setup with live rock, HOB Penguin 350 w/bio-wheels, and just added a protein skimmer. The tank is about 3 months old now and is in good shape, all tests come up normal. I was looking at changing the filtration, but have seen so many bits of conflicting advice around the net and honestly, it leaves me a bit confused. I was looking at adding an overflow box and I already have an extra 10 gal I can use for a sump or what-not. What would be the best way to go for this? I've seen all kinds of advice on bio-balls, sintered glass(Ehfisubstrat Pro), SeaChem Matrix, and pot scrubbies.

At this point the tank has a live sand base, not too deep though. The LR is around 60-70 lbs I would guess. There are currently 2 false percs, 1 dwarf flame angel, 4 chromis, 2 peppermint shrimp, 1 green bubble anemone, and about a dozen hermits. There are no current plans to go reef, but I won't rule that out in the future, I would need to upgrade the lighting though. I currently have a dual T5 with a 10k and actinic.

My ultimate goal is to get rid of the HOB and move the skimmer(currently HOB, but can go in a sump) off of the display tank. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Jason
 
Bio wheels and bio balls do not do much for marine tanks unless you clean them all the time and that can get old fast. Most people get rid of them. If you pitch your bioballs, take them out about 20% aat a time.
 
I don't currently have bio-balls. The current setup is the HOB Penguin 350(Bio Wheels) and a HOB skimmer as well. I'm exploring my options to see what would be best before I go and do anything. At this point, the extra 10gal I have is sitting empty and I haven't purchased an overflow yet.
 
what kind of light do you have on the tank[length wattage bulb kelvin rating]? anemones need very high light and very clean mature water...i wouldnt add one to a tank before the 6 month mark minimum and even so i steer clear of them.for filtration i would slowly ditch the bioballs and if anything replace them over time with live rock rubble. adding a sump would be very beneficial and would allow for a proper sized skimmer. a ten gallon sump is a little small but that is what im running. youll either need an autotop off or ocd to deal with the seemingly rapid evaporation[a larger sump would need to be topped off less often] it would also be very beneficial to add a refugium which you can have separate from the sump like im planning or if you make a custom made larger sump can be part of the sump itself. this can hold live rock rubble and macro algae like chaeto which further filter the water. just make sure to have your skimmer before your fuge or youll fry your pods. its not necessary if your using rodi water and your not planning on corals but a GFO/carbon reactor would pull even more dissolved organics, phosphates, heavy metals, and toxins from the water [consideration if you want to keep the anemone] if i missed anything fill me in guys! hope this helps and welcome to the forum!

edit: sorry i just re-read all that id ditch the biowheels and upgrade your skimmer if you add the sump
 
I have a dual T5 on it now. 48in w/ (1) 10k and (1) actinic. The anemone is doing fine, but the percs seem to prefer the thermometer of it, weird. I really just want to get rid of the bio wheels. I haven't started anything on the sump yet and could always go with a larger tank for that. As far as my setup, what would be the best order in the sump? From the overflow to either filter media or a sock, then the skimmer, and then on to the LR/algae before returning to the tank? Am I understanding it correctly?
 
I would start off by getting rid of the biowheel filter, it's not really made for SW.
Your tank is also pretty overstocked, especially for how new your tank is. Your max for you tank should only be about 5 or possibly 6 fish max. There should also be a 3 week period between adding new fish.
Also, anemones need an established tank usually 6-12 months old before they're stable enough for one. They also require more light than most corals, needless to say your lighting is no where near strong enough to keep one alive.
 
This is why I'm asking online. I've found that the LFSs will tell you "sure, you can do that" to almost anything you ask, as long as it may be plausible. We stay on top of the tank, test it regularly and so far it's been fine. Maybe we just got lucky. I was looking at maybe upgrading to T5HO in the future.
 
That's usually how LFSs go unfortunately.

For the sump, they're usually 3 chambers. The first will be where your overflow drains into and will house the skimmer. The second chamber usually has the live rock rubble, macro algae (if you decide to add it). And the last chamber will have the return pump. This will also be the place where you'll see all the evaporation.
 
Ok, that makes sense. So would I use a filter sock as it comes in then to catch the large stuff? I just want to make sure I do this right the first time.
 
You can use a filter sock but, they'll get dirty quickly and have to be replaced often. Most people just let the overflow dump into the sump. All the bigger stuff will just settle at the bottom and when you do a eater change you can syphon it up if you wanted.
 
Ok, I think I got it. Does this look about right in the image? Sorry for the crude drawing, I just threw it together in paint.
 

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That looks good, I'd change up your bubble trap a little though. you'll want three baffles on the skimmer side to trap any micro bubbles from the skimmer. And on the return side you'll only need one baffle.

The baffles also shouldn't go to the top of the tank either, if your power goes out and the DT drains it can overflow the sump if you have the baffles that high.
 
Thanks for the advice. The drawing is nowhere near to scale, just a general idea. So, just move one from the return to the intake side and it should be good to go. Thanks again.
 
Yep pretty much, if you look through the DIY section there are some good diagrams and actual shots of sumps/refugiums for you to look at.
 
jaymclean said:
I have a dual T5 on it now. 48in w/ (1) 10k and (1) actinic. The anemone is doing fine, but the percs seem to prefer the thermometer of it, weird.
Click to expand...

Yah, but how many watts. 2 bulbs isn't enough for an aneomne so you should get those upgrade lights very soon.
 
Sir Alex said:
Yah, but how many watts. 2 bulbs isn't enough for an aneomne so you should get those upgrade lights very soon.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure they are only 28w each. I was looking at a T5 HO that would be 108W total, so about twice the light I have now. I'm kind of limited on space above the tank.
 
Everyone's got you covered, especially about the nem. some people have had luck with them in new tanks, but they're also not as overstocked as you are in such a short period of time. The reason why everyone's concerned about your nem is that if an anemone dies, it will release toxins and pretty much wipe out your entire tank. So just keep an eye on it, but personally, I'd return it.

Make sure you get a return pump powerful enough to give you the right amount of flow. Welcome to the site! :D
 

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