Sick with ich?
- Thread starter newbee
- Start date
bjohanson1234
.........
you will notice little white spots on the fish, increased respiration and they will scrape against the rocks to try and remove the parasites from their skin.
Brian
Brian
bkv1997
Reef enthusiast
newbee:
Ich has a 3 stage cycle that takes about three weeks to complete....
1) starts off as a cyst in the aquarium substraite.
2) then it enters the water column where most healthy fish will fight it off naturally as a trophozoite.
3) The adult stage is finally on the fish.
The reason you need to understand this is becuase the disappearing then coming back is part of hte cycle so don't be fooled and think the situation is getting better.
Things you can do to help out.
1) Test your water parameters, 9 out of 10 times something is stressing your fish and you need to figure out what it is. Large temperature swings over 24 hours are also something you need to double check.
2) do a large 30% water change just incase.
3) make sure fish aren't picking on each other.
4) keep them good and fat, but don't dump in alot at once, feed them numerous times throughout the day.
5) raising the temperature into the 83ish range helps eleminate the cycle in the 2nd stage.
If you have to revert to medication I have had good success personally with Chem-Marin Stop Parasite 8 oz. - Marine Depot - Marine and Reef Aquarium Super Store in a fully stocked Reef tank. However, it is pepper based and you will need a PH test kit to make sure the PH doesn't drop.
Hope this helps and i'll stop rambling.
Brandon
Ich has a 3 stage cycle that takes about three weeks to complete....
1) starts off as a cyst in the aquarium substraite.
2) then it enters the water column where most healthy fish will fight it off naturally as a trophozoite.
3) The adult stage is finally on the fish.
The reason you need to understand this is becuase the disappearing then coming back is part of hte cycle so don't be fooled and think the situation is getting better.
Things you can do to help out.
1) Test your water parameters, 9 out of 10 times something is stressing your fish and you need to figure out what it is. Large temperature swings over 24 hours are also something you need to double check.
2) do a large 30% water change just incase.
3) make sure fish aren't picking on each other.
4) keep them good and fat, but don't dump in alot at once, feed them numerous times throughout the day.
5) raising the temperature into the 83ish range helps eleminate the cycle in the 2nd stage.
If you have to revert to medication I have had good success personally with Chem-Marin Stop Parasite 8 oz. - Marine Depot - Marine and Reef Aquarium Super Store in a fully stocked Reef tank. However, it is pepper based and you will need a PH test kit to make sure the PH doesn't drop.
Hope this helps and i'll stop rambling.
Brandon
bkv1997
Reef enthusiast
I just want to add medication should always be a last resort, because if everything is normal in the tank a healthy fish will fight off ich naturally.
you might also look into getting a cleaner shrimp or cleaner goby... I would leave the cleaner wrasses at the stores as they can be hard to get to eat in certain situations.
Brandon
you might also look into getting a cleaner shrimp or cleaner goby... I would leave the cleaner wrasses at the stores as they can be hard to get to eat in certain situations.
Brandon
my water temp. is always between 80 and 82 degrees,never higher or lower. i am having a problem with alkalinity. it seems to be too high,other parameters seem to be ok, kh is 13.1. LFS said this ok,but seems kind of high to me. one thing i did not mention is i just introduced the hippo and the coral beauty to the tank,they were not QT'd either could it be that they were stressed or shocked?
Parameter's are:
Calcium: 415 PPM
Nitrate: 10 ppm
Alkalinity: 13.1
Ph: 7.8
Nitrite: 20 ppm
Ammonia: 0 ppm
The calcium,nitrate and alkalinity test's are done with Salifert test kits.The other test's are done with a regular saltwater master test kit.Don't really know how accurate the master kit is.
Calcium: 415 PPM
Nitrate: 10 ppm
Alkalinity: 13.1
Ph: 7.8
Nitrite: 20 ppm
Ammonia: 0 ppm
The calcium,nitrate and alkalinity test's are done with Salifert test kits.The other test's are done with a regular saltwater master test kit.Don't really know how accurate the master kit is.
bkv1997
Reef enthusiast
If you just introduced them I would feed them well keep tank parameters in line and watch them closely over the next few days.
Your alk is a little high, but should be fine.
Your alk is a little high, but should be fine.
bkv1997
Reef enthusiast
The only safe way would be to do water changes, i'll PM you another method, but I don't recommend it and wouldn't do it in my tank.
Brandon
Brandon
bkv1997
Reef enthusiast
Are you dosing anything? What size tank? and which salt mix are you using?
bv
bv
bkv1997
Reef enthusiast
I think thats just the opposite. Reef Crystals typically has a higher alk and calcium level than instant ocean.
I don't think either of those have an alkalinity that high. Are you using RO water or tap water?
I don't think either of those have an alkalinity that high. Are you using RO water or tap water?
bkv1997
Reef enthusiast
I wouldn't worry about honestly... once you get some LR and the coraline or a few corals growing you will be begging to have this problem, which honestly to me isn't a problem.
I'm not sure of any negative effect of having a high alkalinity other than the "snow storm" that can happen if the alk and calcium both get really high.
I'm not sure of any negative effect of having a high alkalinity other than the "snow storm" that can happen if the alk and calcium both get really high.
