Tanked's 125 build thread

tankedchemist

Reef enthusiast
So, after working my butt off all summer, I decided I deserve a reward... so I'm putting together a new 125 gallon tank. I ordered it from the LFS Friday, and got it this afternoon. I decided on a Perfecto Corner-Flo, pre-drilled with 2 overflows, the matching black pine stand, and the lights. I ended up getting marineland 72" Pro lights, with 3x 150W 14000K HQI, 8x 39W HO T5 actinics, and built-in lunar lights. Boy are those puppies bright! It's so awesome. The tank takes up about 80% of my dining room. :mrgreen:

And before you can ask, here's a picture:



So, my next step is the sump and plumbing. I ordered the largest tank I can get into the stand-- a 30 long-- to use as the sump/refugium. Anyone got suggestions for how to set up the plumbing from the bulkheads in the bottom of the tank to the sump, and then the return lines? is there any neat feature you wish you'd worked into your system? I'm a total newb at plumbing stuff so any recommendations and suggestions are completely welcome.
 
Well I have never actually plumb a tank but I have watched a lot of vids of it being done. Let me go find one. this should help some [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kn9a1Arvn-Y&feature=channel"]YouTube - Episode 51 , pt1, How To Set Up A Reef Tank, LA Fishguys[/ame] [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zID7cfbeTTM&feature=related"]YouTube - Episode 51 , pt2, How To Set Up A Reef Tank, LA Fishguys[/ame] [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYDU2B6sPfo&feature=related"]YouTube - Episode 51 , pt3, How To Set Up A Reef Tank, LA Fishguys[/ame]
 
the one thing that i would suggest that you plan and build into your plumbing is to do something like i did with mine where i have a "drain" connection for doing water changes...

on my overflow(on yours you can plumb it right into the drains) i have a port with a valve so that i can just connect a hose, open the valve and drain off some water, while i pump the new water into the tank with the "mixing" pump that lives in the mixing can...

this way the system dosent have to be stopped, and water changes are sooooo easy...
 
the one thing that i would suggest that you plan and build into your plumbing is to do something like i did with mine where i have a "drain" connection for doing water changes...

on my overflow(on yours you can plumb it right into the drains) i have a port with a valve so that i can just connect a hose, open the valve and drain off some water, while i pump the new water into the tank with the "mixing" pump that lives in the mixing can...

this way the system dosent have to be stopped, and water changes are sooooo easy...

Thats almost cheatin' !! :Cheers:
 
damn right it is, and i'll never set another one up without it...

my ultimate goal is to have plumbing in the slab under the tank, so that way if there is a leak, or if i need to drain off some water, it just goes out the drain, and not have to deal with a bucket or anything...
 
Tanked,

PVC glue and primer is easy to use. It will not work if you only use glue. The primer is sold right along side the glue, and can even be acquired in a convenient 2-pack where both parts are included. To use, you simply apply a liberal coating of primer and allow it to sorta dry for a minute or maybe 2 minutes. It softens/etches the PVC plastic on the pipe and acts as a catalyst when the glue is applied. For every joint or fitting, you must apply primer to both pieces. Every place you plan to glue it must have primer and glue applied in order for it to work correctly.

You have to take into account how much pipe will go up inside each fitting. Add the appropriate amount before you cut the pipe off. For instance, if you just put a Tee fitting on the bottom of your overflow line (see first picture) and are about to run horizontally with 1.5" pipe and you need a 90* fitting to turn the pipe straight down - you need to know the length of pipe to cut. One end goes in the Tee and the other end goes in the 90*. So set the 90* where you want it and measure from the end of the Tee to the end of the 90*. Now you add 1.25" per fitting, so thats 2.5" you need to add because there's 2 fittings. If your end to end measurement between the Tee and the 90* was 12" - then you need a 14.5" piece of pipe.

I made an 8-part instructional video for you. I'm uploading it to photobucket. It's 8 different parts, all in sequential order, and it's going to take a bit to upload it all.
 
PVC glue and primer is easy to use. It will not work if you only use glue. The primer is sold right along side the glue, and can even be acquired in a convenient 2-pack where both parts are included.

I buy the all-in-one can! Glue and primer together. Red hot something something or whatever.
 
Wow, RC, thanks!! It's far less intimidating now... I'm going to stop hesitating and go to the hardware store over lunch, and start the plumbing project tonight. I have to pick a skimmer so I can decide how big to make the divisions in my sump.... any suggestions? :)
 
sump design is really pretty easy... what kind of a tank are you starting with, and what are its dimentions, and what are your goals with the sump, do you want it just for adding total volume, or to hide the heaters and skimmer and everything in, or maybe you wanna integrate a fuge?

you have to define the scope of the project, before you can take the first step....
 
It's a glass 30 gallon long tank, dimensions 36"x12"x16", and I want to hide skimmer and heater(s), and include a fuge. I could go with HOB skimmer cause there's plenty of excess room under the stand.

By the way, I plan to join my drain lines with a T before they go into the sump... Should the line going to the sump be a larger dimension because it will theoretically need to hold twice the volume as the original drain lines...? Or am I overthinking this? :)
 
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