Threaded Bulkheads?

phastroh

Do Not Listen To Me!!!
Does anyone use threaded Bulkheads so they don't have to glue them?

I was tempted to switch to them because I am tired of having to cut the pipe every time I have to take out the return to do something and then having to buy one.

My intake is not glued at the bulkheads at all but it is a slip thread. After the bulkhead is about 8 inches of pipe and then a 90 elbow. It wasn't glued but it had to be because it did have a small collection of water build up aka leak.

So Only my return Bulkhead is glue and I wish it wasn't.

My return is glued on the top and bottom of the bulkhead. It also has about 6 inches of pipe on the bottom before the 90 elbow. But it like the return goes right from the elbow to a Union. The return then has after the Union a small pipe like 3 inches long with a thread end with a nozzle threaded into it so I could attach black hose that plugs into my ball valve which in turn has a hose on the other side going to the water pump.

So coming from the pump it is Hose/Ball Valve/Hose/Pipe/Union/Elbow/Pipe//Bulkhead//Pipe/Elbow/Return Nozzle. Just thought I would explain the whole line in case someone asked.
 
Could you post a pic?

It would be easier to follow.

If they make them, I would say use a threaded bulkhead if you plan on taking it apart often.

If you have room, put a union there so you can remove it and not worry about having to buy more bulkheads.
 
Yeah but I had a Union but I had to glue the PVC into the Union.

Am I not supposed to be gluing the PVC into the Union?

I mean right now I can undo the 2 Unions and pull the sump out but I can't remove the Bulkhead because the Union is glued on the PVC.
 
You can use the threaded ones, but if they are attached to anything else, you may not be able to spin the entire thing around -- you could still have to cut it. And I'm curious as BJ is -- why are you taking apart your plumbing so much?

I use threaded ones, but I also glued them all just in case. To be extra safe!
 
Well I have to take it apart once to rebuild it and put in new bulkheads and now I have to take it back apart to redo the anti syphon hole and then if the hole comes out wrong for whatever reason I will have to do it yet again.

I don't plan on rebuilding it all the time I just don't want to glue it and then be pissed it is not working right.

I drill the hole exactly like the original one and I had all those bubbles. I know you saw my other threads about the bubbles that I got rid of.

I planned on making the hole face away from the overflow this time and putting it like right below the water line. This way it is silent and I don't think an extra 1/2 inch will cause a flood if the power goes out.

There is a lot of room in the sump for more water than goes in there now.

I was tempted to invent a plastic thing with a short tube that stuck like 1/4 inch into the overflo water which would basically do the same thing.

It will surely make it quieter.
 
You don't need to take it apart to drill a new anti siphon hole. Just drill the hole in the line where the water comes out, right below the water's surface. You shouldn't have to take apart anything to do that.

I think may be making this more complicated than it needs to be.
 
Yeah the tank is drilled and I am getting sick of having to cut it out and buy a new one but maybe once I do this last fix I won't have to worry anymore.

I reinstalled the bulkhead and had a big leak from the seal due to debris under the rubber ughhhh and it was impossible with my flashlight reflecting back at me.

I only have the 2 bulkheads on the tank.

I really think I will have the problem solved and improved by drilling the anti syphon hole just under the water line and not right at it.

1. It will for once and all quiet the water splashing sound
2. The Sump will not overflo due to an extra inch or tow of water.
3. I will eliminate any chance of bubbles due to water splashing up and into the tan..

I still may go with a tube pointing into the water in the overflow but under the waterline.

My overflo water level is roughly 2 to 3 inches below the tanks water level. I have a short intake pipe I guess but it works great.

I have been taking pics of stuff and I can take HD video and post it on my web space so if you want I can send you a message when it is on there.

It will just be how it is now and then after I put the new idea on the tank I will show you that. I thought I could invent something for people but it seems only I have the noisy splashes from my anti syphon hole.

I slapped a sponge in there for now to stop the bubbles.

I have nothing but tap water for now. I wanted to work all this out before I spent cash on rocks and salt, etc.
 
Biffferwine,

How can I drill the pipe when it is in the overflo?

That is why it has to come out. I can't fit my drill in there and it is glued into the Bulkhead from the top as well.

My waterline in the overflo is below the tanks waterline. Short intake.
 
Is there a pipe that sticks out of the overflow to return water to the tank? Either over the top of the overflow, or through the side of the overflow? That's where you drill the hole. You don't need to drill it inside the overflow. There's no point to that, as it doesn't accomplish anything different than if you had the hole drilled on the part of the return that is actually sticking out into the tank.

Pics of your setup would really help.
 
Yeah the return stick out of the water and then over the overflow and the nozzles sit in the water just like what any other drilled tank has I would assume.

The hole is at about the tanks water level exactly, it is just the water coming out of the hole hits the back of the overflow and causes air bubbles in the tank and it is noisy.

I put a sponge between the pipe and the overflow. Where the little half circle of plastic you pop out of new overflow so the pipe fits and crosses into the tank.

The water was spraying just below that and the bubbles were being injected under the nozzles and into the tank. There is like a 1/4 inch gap between the pipe and overflow plastic so the sponge sits in between like a sandwich.

Pipe than under that the sponge than under that the overflow and it blocks the bubbles.

I was just going to make a new return pipe and drill the hole in the back so the water sprays away from the tank and toward the glass but then I thought to put it right under the water line to eliminate the noise of the spray.

Hope that makes sense. I will post pix tonight and send you a message. I will be writing on the pix so you can see what I am saying although this last post should make the most sense.
 
You can drill the anti siphon hole right in the nozzle where the water is coming out. Right below the water line. There won't be any noise or bubbles that way. Will be waiting on pics though! You can just post them in this thread.
 
WHAT!!!! I can just drill the black nozzle thing with the 2 spray nozzles. I would have just done that in the first place instead of behind the overflow like the orginal.
 
Yes. That's the easiest way to do it. You don't need to disassemble anything to drill those holes. I'm assuming yours looks something like this?

SCWD-LocLine.jpg


Just drill your siphon break hole right below the water line in that. That will stop a reverse siphon from happening in a power outage. As I said, I think you are making this more complicated than it need be. ;)
 
Well that is because I was thinking it had to be in the pipe.

Yeah mine looks like that with less segments. Maybe I will get a new one. Mine only has like 3 or so.
 
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