Whats the ideal amount or oxygen in my water?

Keaton

Reefing newb
Hey guys I was wondering if oxygenation is something I should be monitoring. I have a maxi-jet 1200 with a venturi and it seems like it puts a lot of micro bubbles in my water. I don't really like how it looks like that but I'm nervous that if i turn the venturi off there wont be enough O2 in the water. Any thoughts? Thank you in advance.
 
Take the airline off the maxi-jet and plug the hole.Then point the maxi-jet up enough that it ripples the surface of the water.
Micro bubbles can damage the gills of your fish.
 
MY bio-wheel filter puts off a bunch of bubbles. Well...not that much, it just looks like there is debris floating around in the water. Is that ok or should I take the wheels off (wheels cause the bubbles)? If so... I'll probably take one wheel off and take the other off a week later as not to impact the nit cycle too much.
 
You should get a canister filter. Canisters are way more efficient than wheels. They also create water flow. I have an Eheim 80 and it produces a flow of 200gph which helps to move water and bio-load. You might want to think about investing in one. Mine I got from ebay for @$100 and it's awesome.
 
But keep in mind, canister filters will lead to nitrate problems if they're not cleaned regularly (like, weekly). They are a pain in the ass to keep maintained. Protein skimmers are the way to go, if you don't have one already. Not only are they the most effective method to filter the water, but skimmers will also do an excellent job of oxygenating your water too.
 
Skimmers are great in that they are not really filters in the way that bacteriological filters are. Bacto filters do not remove anything they just change it. Detritus/poop to ammonia, then to nitrites and then to nitrates. At that stage the aquarists generally makes water changes to get rid of the nitrates. The filters remove nothing. However skimmers actually remove the organics from the water stream. They do remove other things but their benefits definitely make up for their short comings. I would like to say there are times when canister biological systems are good, or when trickle filters are good, but I will have to be honest and say I believe they only have a place in systems where inadequate amounts of skimming, live rock and deep sand beds can not be used. An example would be a mainly fish tank with large fish that prevent the use of adequate amounts of live rock and a sump large enough for the live rock is not possible. Any other use of bacteriological power filters or trickle filters using such things as bio balls is a maintenance headache and widely known problem causer.
 
:bounce: If you want to do some testing of dissolved oxygen levels a reagent type test kit runs around $20 for fifty tests. A level as low as 6 mg/l is barley survivable for long term levels for most reef fish, with 7 mg/l tolerable and 8 mg/l or more a necessity for some reef fish. Of course the goal is for 8 mg/l or better. It is not unusual to see levels in the five range at night even for fully mature, very well circulated reef tanks, if they are not growing macro algae and such at night in a sump/refugium. :^:
 
Thanks for all the info guys. Its always nice getting different opinions. Anyway, right now I have no equipment space since my tank is on my dresser, so my only option is hob till I move in June or August. I plan on getting a Remora Pro Skimmer as to avoid the upgrade when I move. As to the original question, should I remove to wheels to get rid of the bubbles?
 
I don't really kno about removing your bio-wheel cuz it's mostly what makes those filters effective I think. It's the combo of bio (hence the name biowheel)and mechanical filtration that makes it work. Just my 2 cents but biff or freak or one of those guys would know better.
 
I would get rid of the wheel to get rid of the problems associated with a non organic biological filter. Stick to live rock or live sand for biological filtration. The bubble problem is just another good reason to get rid of the biowheel. That is assuming that you do have some live rock and/or live sand. If not then you are limited to sticking to the bio wheel until you get some rock/sand. Just take the bio wheel's wheel out and clean it inmixed water, like that from a water change and reinstall it. You might have to do a very light scrubbing to clean the film off the wheel. If the wheel fabric gets torn it will have to be dryed and glued back together with silicone caulking for aquariums.
 
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