Zoa Pox?

FishyReef

Broke Reefer!
I have a frag of zoas on the far side of my tank that I think has zoo pox. I got this colony from a local reefer about 2 months ago, and it was probably 3x its current size when I got it. It originally had both green bay packers and melon zoas on it, but I lost all of the green bay packers. The melon zoos remained and have been looking decent since then. Today they started to close up - I figured it was becuase an urchin was near them, but this afternoon in looking at them I am noticing very visible white spots on them that match the pictures I've seen of zoo pox. My questions are (1) how do I treat this? and (2) do I need to treat all of the other zoa colonies in my tank even if they appear healthy and are nowhere near this one? Thanks!
 
Furan-2 tablets are effective against a wide variety of gram positive and gram negative bacterial diseases for freshwater and saltwater fish. This medication will cause a harmless green color in the aquarium, which can be removed with activated carbon. This medication can be used in conjunction with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals anti-parasitic medications. This medication will not harm the biological filter in fresh or saltwater aquariums.

For treatment of: Dropsy, furunculosis, gill disease, fin and tail rot and black molly disease.

Instructions (as per the manufacture):
Use one capsule for every 10 gallons of aquarium water
Wait 24 hours and repeat dose
Wait another 24 hours and make a 25% water change
Repeat this treatment for a second time for a total of 4 doses of Furan-2
Make a final 25% water change and add fresh activated carbon
Repeat if necessary
Ingredients:
Each capsule of Furan-2 contains:
60mg Nitrofurazone
25mg Furazolidone
2mg Methylene Blue Trihydrate
Additional requirements for treatment:
1 cup of RO new saltwater (Update 2009.03.30: For the sake of clarity, we have edited this article to reflect that a cup of new saltwater, non-tank water but new saltwater of appropriate salinity, is needed. This reference change has been made several times in this article, but is only commented on here.)
1 capsule of Furan
1 extra cup of Aquarium Water (this is used to wash the Zoanthids after the treatment and before they are put back into your Aquarium; I do this because I don't want to risk Furan killing any of my fish or other corals).*
*Note: Through my experiment I found out that even if you don't wash your Zoanthid before putting it back into the main tank, it will not hurt any live stock or corals, (I have tested this on my own). But I'm washing it anyway just to be on the safe side. (ZoaID.com notes: t is always a good idea to target treat infected animals vs. a global tank treatment when possible!)

PH, Temp, and Salinity Level:
Make sure you match the temp, pH, and salinity level of your RO new saltwater to your current tank before the treatment.

Procedure:
place 1 capsule into the RO new saltwater cup and mix it good until the RO new saltwater water turns green. Put the zoa in the Furan mix and leave it for xxx minutes. I recommend at least 15 min but not more than 30 min.
After the treatment, wash the zoas in your tank water on the other cup you had put aside. Then put the zoas back in the tank where there is a stronger flow.
*Note: Your zoa will have a green dye to its body but it is fine. The green dye should fade away in a day or two.

Do 3 treatments in a row then let it rest for 4-7 days; depending on the condition of your Zoanthids. If the ZoaPox is still on the Zoanthids then continue with another three treatments. But make sure you let it rest 4-7 days after every 3 treatments.

Temp:
Keep in mind; during the treatment I slowly increase my temp from 78 to 81-82. Furan works best in higher heat. But I would not go over 82. In freshwater I bump it up to 84-86 for Furan treatment against fungus.

Water Changes:
I also increase my water changes from 5 gal per week to 10 gal every 3 days. (This is in a 75G tank.)

*Note: I did another test on the effectiveness of water change. With water changes my Zoanthids seem to recover quicker. On the other hand, Zoanthids that receive no water changes still recover, but it just takes longer.

Recommended Instructions for long-term treatment of ZoaPox:

1st WEEK
Day 1: 1st treatment started with 20 min dip
Day 2: 2nd treatment started with 20 min dip
Day 3: 3rd treatment started with 20 min dip
Let the colony rest for 1 week

*Note: If your Zoanthid has recovered and you still want to do another dip, please reduce the amount of dipping time when you do so. Also, you don't have to do another treatment if your Zoanthid is completely healed. I'm doing another treatment on mine just to make sure the ZoaPox is completely eradicated.

2nd WEEK
Day 1: 4th treatment started with 10 min dip
Day 2: 5th treatment started with 10 min dip
Day 3: 6th treatment started with 10 min dip
 
Thank you, Fast! I think I read these online elsewhere too. So I should treat outside of the DT? And if I do it outside of the DT, do I not worry about the 25% water change piece every 24 hours and running carbon? Should I do all of the zoas or just the frag that I see them on? I'm headed to the store tonight to get the furan 2 and plan to use it tomorrow.
 
When I have to use it, I do a dip. Just soak them in it for about 20 minutes. I also use a soft toothbrush to lightly brush away anything that loosens. Keep them separated in the tank, and re-dip as per instructions.
 
I bought the furan 2 tonight and was chatting with the guy at the LFS who told me that they are basically little spiders that could have come in on anything, so even if they came in on one of the new zoa colonies that I added and wasn't anywhere near the colony that is showing symptoms, the spiders could have crawled up the rock to the infected colony. Is this accurate? If so, I'm guessing I should treat everything then, since the bug will just move elsewhere. How do I get them out of my DT permanently?
 
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