220 gal setup questions

[jKeith09]

Hello, I'm Jason. I am new to this forum and also to aquariums. I am working on getting one set up. right now im getting the equipment and everything so i can start setting it up. I have done a lot of research so I know a little about the hobby. So far i have a 220 gal tank with a stand and i have a protein skimmer. i am planning on building most of it myself such as the light and sump. my plan is to have an overflow in my tank and drill it and have it gravity fed straight to my sump where i will have a 4 stage sump tank. starting with the water going in to the first station where i will have activated carbon filters and my skimmer then going to the next stage of cheata then to a 3rd stage where i will have a DSB and finally to the final stage where it will be pumped back to the tank and i will have a UV sterilizer stuck in there somewhere.

My big question right now is how big of a return pump should i use? is there a formula to figure it out? or how many times should my water cycle through the sump per hour and/or day?

Also if I am missing anything or if you have any helpful advice it would be greatly appreciated.

 

[RockStacker]

Hello. Welcome aboard!

220 gallons will be lots of fun.
It will also be a lot of work but it will be well worth it if properly maintained.

Regarding the sump, it can be as big as you want it to be.
The minimum size will be dictated by the stuff you want to put in there.

Where are you planning to have the overflow holes on the tank? will it be on the back or bottom?

You also plan to use a UV sterilizer, I take it that you are planning a fish only setup?

 

[jKeith09]

I was wanting to do fish and coral.. i like the look of soft coral but i may do some hard coral also. i want to drill a hole in the bottom of the tank and silicone a piece of plastic in so the water will overflow into it and then go down through the hole.

so im assuming that a UV sterilizer wont be necessary if i do coral?

also for my sump im thinkin about 50 gal but i dont know how many gph i should be pumping through it

 

[cvcdrk]

UV sterilizers are pretty hit or miss in my opinion. Yes, they will kill things that you want to kill (like parasites and ich) but they will also kill any other biologicals...including good ones in your water column that feed your corals.

Just something to think about.

For the sump, 50 gallons would definitely be enough, but you could go bigger if you wanted to. The more water volume, the more stable your parameters will be (but the more work you'll have to do for water changes).

Another thing to consider (which you may have already, idk) is that a 220 gallon fish tank weighs more than a metric ton. The water alone at 8lb.s per gallon would be about 1750 lbs. and the tank likely weighs more than 350 lbs. That would be before rock, as well...of which you'll likely want at LEAST 220lbs). You need to be 100% sure that the floor beneath your tank is capable of supporting that much weight in such a small footprint (comparatively). If necessary, the floor may need to be reinforced.

 

[RockStacker]

i want to drill a hole in the bottom of the tank and silicone a piece of plastic in so the water will overflow into it and then go down through the hole.

Are you talking about an overflow box surrounding a naked bulkhead drain?
Although that will work, it could be a very noisy setup.
1. The water will be flowing from the top of your overflow cutoff and splash into the bottom where the water either hits the tank bottom or water that is already churning down there.
2. Water will be churning and swirling as it all tries to drain into the overflow tube.
3. Depending on how tall that vertical drop is, it could sound anywhere from a gentle fountain to a 24/7 toilet flush.

If you plan to have a bottom drilled overflow, look into a Durso style standpipe. I am building a similar overflow setup for my 100g tank and the 1-1/2" PVC pipe and fittings only cost me like $15.00 to make two standpipes.
You would need an overflow box to enclose the standpipe. You can buy a pre-made one from aquarium dealers or make your own with cut glass or plexiglass.

If you have not yet drilled the tank, there are other options for back-drilled tanks that provide a quieter overflow setup (Bean Animal, Herbie, just to name a couple).
Those setups were named after the internet handles of the folks who invented/conceptualized them.

Before you drill, explore all options first to make sure it is really what you want.

 

[jKeith09]

So I will probably leave out the UV sterilizer for now and see how things work without it. as for the floor im going to put it in the basement where the floor should be strong enough. I have a slate pool table set up which has a smaller footprint and i havent done the math but i cant imagine the psi of the tank being more than that of the pool table because the feet on the table are pretty small. and as for the overflow box i considered doing one that would be side drilled but i want to put it against the wall so i ruled that out. but i will for sure look into those standpipes and i also have a few ideas of my own that i may try.

 

[cvcdrk]

Basement is a good place. Is the floor poured concrete?

I don't know how much a slate pool table weighs but somehow I doubt it weighs a metric ton. You're looking at close to or over 2800lbs. of total weight in a footprint that is

For the flooring, the pool table would be evenly distributed among the four legs whereas the tank's weight would be more heavily concentrated.
I'm not trying to discourage you or anything. Basement is likely the best place for a tank of this size....but you just want to be 100% sure the floor beneath it can handle the weight. Otherwise it could cost you a fortune.

 

[jKeith09]

ya i didnt think about it like that and im not sure what is under the floor. but i will figure it out and if i have to i can pull up the carpet and redo the floor so that it will hold. i estimate that the pool table is 600 pounds and the feet are 4" dia.

11.93psi for a 600lbs table with 4" feet
1.62psi for my tank at 2800 lbs

thats what i calculated... but the tank is going to be more weight in one area and i will for sure check out the floor

 

[kevdogg]

My tank is supported mainly on the outer corners, and I do have a cement floor. It should be more then strong enough.

As far as putting the tank against the wall, I would leave at least a few inches just to be able to rescue/remove anything that may exit the tank at the rear. I have several snails that like to jump... :grumble: