I need ATO help

d2mini

Reef enthusiast
Ok, so i'm used to using my ATO from autotopoff.com
It uses a solenoid in the sump, connected to a pump in the RO container. When the low water level is sensed it sends a signal to turn the pump on and then turns it off when the water level is at the correct height. But this won't work for my new tank because I can't (or don't want to) run a long power line from the pump in RO tank in the garage, all the way to the ATO gizmo under the stand. So i figure i have two options.

1. Gravity feed with a float valve. I can mount the float valve in the sump. The RO tank is at the same level as the sump. But with 55 gallons of head pressure, I shouldn't have any problem keeping the sump filled. Theoretically. But... not so sure i like the idea of a $5 float valve being the only thing between a dry floor and a very wet one. At least if the electronic gizmo fails I only run the risk of burning out my pump.

2. I would need a dosing pump of some sort that can be placed in the stand connected to the RO line, and pull water from the RO tank and push it into the sump. This would have to be connected to some kind of electronic gizmo/solenoid.

Any ideas or thoughts on this? :12:
 
Mechanical float valves are much more reliable than electronic stuff. I use float valves and electronically controlled valves in my job all the time. Just don't keep enough water in your fill tank that it can overflow the sump. The simpler the system the less likely it is to break. If the solenoid was to stick open wouldn't it still run the chance of overflowing the sump anyways?

If your worried about overflow you can always put a high float switch wired to solenoids that should the water level get so high it shuts the backup solenoid valves in the event the float valve gets stuck open?
 
I would go with method #1 and keep it simple. That's how I have my RODI unit connected and it seems to work just fine. Except for that one flood.
 
Just don't keep enough water in your fill tank that it can overflow the sump.

Well, that's kinda the rub.
I planned to have a full 55g RO supply at all times, so i can instantly mix a fresh batch of saltwater.

I'm not sure how I would go about implementing a backup shut off all contained in the stand???
 
forgive my drawing I'm not artisticly inclined.

Basic 120v transformer to make 24v ac. The 24v is low enough it can't kill you therefore not such a worry in a salt tank. the 24v goes thru a float switch then to the 24v solenoid valve. If water level makes the float switch float it will kill the 24v power to the solenoid.
 

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The previous pic was only the electric wiring. The water line would come out of your resevior go thru the solenoid valve then end at the float valve.

I'd hate to cut up a good ATO system just to rob a few dollars worth of parts.

Here I made hopefully a better picture to show electrical and water lines
 

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So i was in my LFS this weekend looking for some other stuff and was then going to head to Lowes to get some float valve parts and I happened to come across this.
Eshopps Float Valve Auto-Top
Decided to just get it because it was easy, and it solved a problem I was going to have to figure out on my own with mounting the valve. Got it hooked up and it seems to be working ok so far.

Thanks for the diagrams. I might refer back to these when i have time to work on something like that. :)
 
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Wait, I've seen your build thread but I'm confused, are you saying you already have the line plumped from the water storage tank but you just don't want to run the wire? If that is the case, you could always use something like an x10 device. Maybe not necessarily x10 brand but like a wireless relay module. Hook the transmitter up to your switch so it would send the signal and then the wireless relay would turn the pump on.
 
Ya, i thought about x10 but also thought about the interference issues they can have.
If I wasn't on a concrete slab and could run wiring/plumbing under the floor, i would have done that.
 
Yeah it's always best to have a failsafe. Even if you don't use x10 but use wireless it's best to have something that would kill the pump if it didn't receive a kill signal.
 
Ah, there ya go. That's what VA was basically explaining.
Where the eff were you yesterday, James!!!!??? :D

Maybe I'll grab one of those when i get around to ordering a 2-part kit from BRS.
 
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