Is this sump design feasable?

[BL1]

I'm planning on using rubbermaid tubs for the sump and refugium because they're cheaper plus, since they are somewhat bendable I should be able to fit a bigger one under the stand then if I were using an actual tank. Let me know, if you think my design will work, or if there is anything I can change to try and make it more effective. And, do you think it'll be possible to put baffles in a rubbermaid container?

 

[dcantucson]

I think it is a good design with the exception of the baffles. Don't think they will adhere to the tub without giving you troubles at some point. With the refugium in the separate tub you don't really need the baffles anyway.

If you're concerned about the "good bugs" getting sucked up by the skimmer I think I'd move the over flow/drain to the right side of the refugium. Where the baffles are pictured I'd put a Live Rock wall.

Just an idea.

 

[BL1]

Thanks David, I'd still need at least one wall between the skimmer and pump to keep the water level at a constant height for the skimmer though, right?

 

[dcantucson]

I don't. You can control the level by the flow of your pump so the it matches the overflow from the main tank. I would put a ball valve on the return line so you can adjust the return if you need to.

 

[BL1]

I don't. You can control the level by the flow of your pump so the it matches the overflow from the main tank. I would put a ball valve on the return line so you can adjust the return if you need to.

Correct me if I'm wrong, I'm going off of how my other sump works. But, when you get evaporation in your system the water level in the pump return section drops. So, if you didn't have any baffles in your sump the entire water level would drop and it would drop below what the skimmer needs to operate. Right? I don't think it has anything to do with matching the flow of the overflow and return ... or am I thinking about this wrong?

 

[dcantucson]

No, I see what you're saying and you're right in that, however that is not a problem IF you top off your system everyday or have a auto top off (as I do).

 

[Pwny]

the 3 baffles there are mainly a bubble trap so micro bubbles dont get in you dt from my understanding, if you useing rubermaid tubs you think about getting 3 line them up under your tank and us the 1st for skimmer/drain from dt 2nd for refuge and then 3rd for return. that way you can conect em all with pvc and have gravity drains to the next tub just gota make sure you make each drain lower then the last to the 3rd tub. also you could toss heater in 1 or 3 and if you wanter filter sock for drain from dt. anywho just my 2 cents but idk how much room you have to work with or how much water you wanted to put down there.

+1 dcantucson on the ball valve there great on the return line some outher stuff id add to the return would be a check valve and also a holes in the return line where it goes into your tank about a inch below your water line so if you check vale dosent work or you cant turn your ball vavle off in the case of a back siphon it will make a siphon break.

 

[Pwny]

opps just looked at drawing again saw you plan on puting check valves in there ><

 

[bjohanson1234]

I personally feel that the check valves are just something waiting to fail. And they will get clogged with crap that grows in there. If you have the levels in your sump set up correctly, you do not need a check valve.

Fill the tank up to where it starts draining. Then fill the sump up to about an inch or two below the top of the rubbermaid. Then turn on all your pumps and skimmer. Mark where the water level is in your sump. If you maintain the water level at or below that line, you will not over flow your sump if power goes out. You also need to put a 1/4 inch hole in your return line at the water level of the DT. This hole will break the syphon and prevent it from draining too much.

Of course, others will swear up and down on the use of check valves, but IMO, they are an unnessasary (man I cant spell) source of potential failure.

 

[dcantucson]

What check valves can fail?

 

[bjohanson1234]

Any mechanical device can fail. The check valve can get plugged up with gunk and then not close properly. Like I said, to me the risk isnt worth it. Especially if there is another way to prevent a sump from overflowing

 

[dcantucson]

I know, I know! I was being sarcastic. I recently lost everything in my Zero because of failed check valves.

 

[BL1]

the 3 baffles there are mainly a bubble trap so micro bubbles dont get in you dt from my understanding, if you useing rubermaid tubs you think about getting 3 line them up under your tank and us the 1st for skimmer/drain from dt 2nd for refuge and then 3rd for return. that way you can conect em all with pvc and have gravity drains to the next tub just gota make sure you make each drain lower then the last to the 3rd tub. also you could toss heater in 1 or 3 and if you wanter filter sock for drain from dt. anywho just my 2 cents but idk how much room you have to work with or how much water you wanted to put down there.

+1 dcantucson on the ball valve there great on the return line some outher stuff id add to the return would be a check valve and also a holes in the return line where it goes into your tank about a inch below your water line so if you check vale dosent work or you cant turn your ball vavle off in the case of a back siphon it will make a siphon break.

the 3 baffles are a bubble trap but, that last baffles also work to keep the water level in the first section at a constant height, making only the return section fluctuate in water level. Three separate tubs could work I guess. But, can you put bulk heads onto a rubbermaid container?
I guess I messed up when I was drawing the pic, I didn't actually put any check valves into the design, those are supposed to be ball valves.

I personally feel that the check valves are just something waiting to fail. And they will get clogged with crap that grows in there. If you have the levels in your sump set up correctly, you do not need a check valve.

Fill the tank up to where it starts draining. Then fill the sump up to about an inch or two below the top of the rubbermaid. Then turn on all your pumps and skimmer. Mark where the water level is in your sump. If you maintain the water level at or below that line, you will not over flow your sump if power goes out. You also need to put a 1/4 inch hole in your return line at the water level of the DT. This hole will break the syphon and prevent it from draining too much.

Of course, others will swear up and down on the use of check valves, but IMO, they are an unnessasary (man I cant spell) source of potential failure.

Thanks BJ, that's how I was planning on figuring out the water level for my sump. I was also planning on the siphon break for the return, I always have that back-syphon issue with my other tank.

 

[Pwny]

i havent tryed it myself but id think it would be possable aslong as you can make a seal. if you cut the hole a little small you could pore boiling water on the hole befor you push the pipe through to help make a tighter fit. but like i said ive never tryed somthing like this myself.