Kick-ick

V

Veilside0Three

Reefing newb
Does it work?

I pulled the fish from the display tank, did hyposalinity until they all showed no symptoms, and 2 weeks after that. I kept all of the fish out of the tank for 5 weeks. I put them in a few days ago, and my valetini already has white dots. I really don't want to put them back into the 20g for another 5-6 weeks. Anything else I can do to get rid of this shit?
 
it's more like months instead of weeks for ick to die off in your tank.

have you tried feeding your fish mysis with garlic to keep their immune systems up to help fight off the ick?
 
find out what is stressing it. THey get ich when they are stressed. Healthy fish will fight off ich on their own but if they are stressed they will be too weak to fight.
 
Would it be okay to just boost their immune system with garlic instead of leaving the tank lifeless for months? I hated having all four fish in a little 20g for that long :(

Thank you alto :)
 
Happy birthday!

Strengthening the immune system and not having to move the fish is the ideal way to deal with it because as you already know yourself, there will be additional stress involved with quarantine tanks (having to catch a sick fish, getting it used to its new environment while sick, etc). So yes, if you can deal with it naturally in the main tank, its what i would recommend.

The benefit of a QT is that you can medicate it and actually treat the fish. So i suggest for as long as the fish is eating keep it in the main tank. When it stops eating, its time to take more drastic action and medicate it.

Just remember, dont ever medicate your main tank.

Good luck!
 
Last edited:
Sounds good. One more question... I've never gotten a fish that didn't eat right away... I just purchased a 5" Naso tang, got it about 5 hours ago, and I haven't seen it go for the green marine algae clip yet... Is this normal? Will it just take a little while to get used to the tank, and to find the seaweed?
 
Veilside0Three said:
Sounds good. One more question... I've never gotten a fish that didn't eat right away... I just purchased a 5" Naso tang, got it about 5 hours ago, and I haven't seen it go for the green marine algae clip yet... Is this normal? Will it just take a little while to get used to the tank, and to find the seaweed?
Click to expand...

you might want to slow down adding so many fish in a short amount of time. The main reason for ick is stress and adding new fish before the others are secure makes them all stressed. Keep feeding them and watch if the ick gets worse. If it does then put em back in the 20g and try your best with all the other methods.
 
I'm not sure I'm following you right. You have a fish in your tank now that shows sign of ich....and you just added a tang to the same tank?

How long did you do the hypo and at what salinity?
 
ccCapt said:
I'm not sure I'm following you right. You have a fish in your tank now that shows sign of ich....and you just added a tang to the same tank?

How long did you do the hypo and at what salinity?
Click to expand...

Nobody was showing any signs of ick until I added the tang. Only the puffer is showing a few spots, and my firefish flashes every now and then, not constant. My scooter and sleeper seem completely fine. Could it just be that adding such a large fish stressed them out? Everyone besides he tang is eating just fine.

I kept the salinity down to 1.009 or whatever for about three weeks, and slowly raised of back up. They were in the 20g for about 5 weeks total.
 
You should never add a new fish when the fish you already have are showing signs of stress.And ick is one of those signs.
 
I am going to perform hyposalinity again. This time waiting until they how no sign of ick, then 3 weeks longer. Since my only Qt is a 20g, I font want to move the fish in there.

My question is, can I just pull all inverts, rock, and most sand out of my display, and perform he treatment in there?
 
I filled my tank way too fast. I'm lucky I didn't kill anything, but my flame angel, yellow tang, firefish, and flame hawkfish (later removed because of aggression) all came down with ick. I broke the entire tank down 3 times trying to catch them and fw dip them (I don't have a QT). That would help for a few days, but I think the stress of the "treatment" was worse than the ick. My lfs recommended a powder that went into the food, I wish I could remember the name, and I started feeding them that mixed into frozen food. After a week or so the ick went away. I quit trying to catch them and let nature take its course. As they got comfortable and gained weight, the ick went away completely and has not returned. Fish are stronger than I gave them credit for. I made many mistakes starting up, MANY, but it's like having a new child. You want to take them to a doctor every time they cough. Ease up on adding fish (I didn't), treat them with as little disruption as possible (I didn't), and give them a chance to settle down, get healthy, and kick it on their own (I finally did). They're tough little boogers, they'll be fine.
 
I understand not wanting to catch all the fish and remove them to a QT, but not doing so is the best method to ensure that your fish will eventualy die from it. While fish can and do develop a partial, key word being partial, resistence, all it takes is a stress event to happen in the tank and you could easily lose your fish. Adding a fish right from the store is a horrible practice as well. Everything should be put through a quarantine procedure and treated if need be before being added. This is one area of the hobby that is still sadly lacking even after all these many years. A QT should be a must have, must use item and procedure when establishing a new tank setup.
Please read this article in its entirety if you wish to learn about this parasite's life history and how to best defeat it, for the sake of your fish. Thanks.

Cryptocaryon irritans

Chuck
 

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